beandip

Dont let the metal ready stand for longer than 30 to 40 min. Check with escanlon he coated the tank on his '71 with the POR kit. He is away for a few more days . The Metal ready is crossive and shouldent be left over night. If you are not going to coat the tank , after you flush out the M ready , use a blow drier or heat gun to dry it out and pour some oil in the tank and slosh it arround to prevent further rusting , the oil wont bother anything when you fill with gas. I would suggest that you coat the tank though with POR . Gary

Just go to the link that B-killer posted and have a look !!!!!!! You DON'T need to chain up the diff , just looke at what Dave has come up with . It works and is simple and easy to install and looks good . I installed on on my Z , I already had the mound off the car so it was vary simple . He has posted instructions and everything HAVE A LOOK . Gary

Dave do you still have the limmiter bracket that you built ? The one that won't allow the diff to slam the underside at launch ? GUYS THIS IS THE GUY THAT CAME UP WITH THE PIN REMOVER AND HE ALSO MAKES A PART THAT IS SIMPLE AND WORKS GREAT , THAT LIMITS THE RISE OF THE DIFF AT LAUNCH. HE ALSO HAS A TRANSVERSE LINK THAT IS SUPER , IT ALLOWS YOU TO BE ABLE TO LEAVE THE FINNED ALUMINUM BACKING PLATE ON A LSD. check his site ! Gary

If you take a 3'' length of 2x 2 angle iron and mount it so that the lower porton will just be spaced 1/8'' below the bottom of the diff mount. Mark the upper part so that you can drill a hole through it and the hole will line up with the upper part of the rubber mount that is steel. Drill into the mount and tap the hole for a 3/8'' bolt and assemble . This will not allow the diff to rise more than the 1/8 when you launch and under normal driving it wont be in any contact . The Member of this web site that built the spindel pin puller also makes these and other parts of this type. I don't remember his name or I would post it. I have one installed on my Z but I don't have a dig cammera. I will try and take a picture of it installed . Gary THE GUY'S NAME IS V8-240z he just posted on another thread send him a PM

What did you do for hatch hinge seals? The rubber seals that keep water from entering the overhead around the hinges . Gary

If you are looking for advise , I say to treat this deal like it has herpies ! I wouldent touch this with your 10' pole. There are too many good cars and willing sellers to mess with this. Gary

I agree with First Gen Z in that you have a vary fine car . Yes it is heavier but it will ride smoother , longer wheel base. For one thing all the Zs after the 240 are heavier as well , and you don't hear complaints from the other 280 drivers . Sounds like you may have found a good car to work with . Rust free , or almost so , is a vary big factor . You will be money ahead big time. I own a 240 and I do prefer them to a ''duce'' . I came vary close to buying a '75 2+2 from Mike G ,the bone cracker , vary close . The only reason I dident was I had started on my 240 and couldent take on another project. Welcome to the club . I hope you realise that you are now infected with the Z virus and there is no cure . Gary

looks like a great parts car at the least. Gary

They seem to have two speeds slow and slower . Usually the trouble is the pivets where the wypers connect to the linkage. The rubber seal fails and water and dust gets into the pivet . You need to remove the wyper motor with the linkage and pivet attached . Check the linkage ends for wear and take the pivet apart and clean and grease them . I used white lube. If the parts are badly worn and are loose it will cause everything to bind. This is what usually the problem is. Not the motor , the 30+ year old systime. Gary

Painter costs will vary from area to area. I had a bid on my '73 which was all in primer from the P O . With out body work , and me just driving in the car and saying go for it , $1400.00 . Now this is not including the door jambs or hatch or hood . This was for just sanding and preping and painting . This was at a good shop that built hot rods , worked on XKEs , Bemers and so on. In short craftsmen. If I would have had them do the car the way I wanted ,it would have easiley been over 3K . Bondo is a catch name for a body filler. It is used to hide the dents and imperfections in the metal. When applied properly , it is ok. When exposed to the air it will absorb moisture , some ''body men'' will drill holes in the pannel and shove the stuff through the holes in a attempt to make it stick better to the patch. Moisture will wick in from the back side and will rust the pannel and in time the patch will crack and fall off . It is used because it is fast , cheep and is easy to apply. Body filler in general has gotten a bad rap because of shoddy preperation and it's use . We found bondo 2'' thick on one fender on my car , and accross the rear pannel there were over 30 holes drilled and from the underside it looked like pasta hanging down next to the gas tank. It was all removed and the holes brazed and the metal worked and drawn back properly. It took hours of work to do , and thanks to Scanlon it now looks great. This is the difference between good and poor workmanship. Both looked good , untill the bondo cracked open and exposed some rusted metal. Now it is done right. As for repairing the rocker , it all depends on the damage and the skill level of the bodyman . As I mentioned before so many shops are just pannel replacers . The area that shows rust is the rocker and just back of it where the beginning of the back fender is . It's called the dog leg. These two areas can be costly to replace and or repair . They are critical in the strength of the body/frame. Being a unibody construction there is no true frame , the sheet metal of the whole car is what makes up the structure , like a egg shell . The rocker is a sheet metal box , forming a channel/rail that runs from the firewall to the dogleg under the door and forms the door jamb. Some will just cut away the rusted metal that shows and weld in a patch and apply some bondo and paint. If the rest of the rocker is rusted thin and the rust hasent been removed or treated it will continue to decay the metal and will show up in the near future. I am getting too long here . Some one else chime in . I hope this is helpful Gary

The only value in the seats is to someone that is restoring a period car. Most replace them with the later ones that tilt back and hinge forward so you can access to the rear. I vary much doubt the switch that you are mentioning is other that after market mod. The rocker that shows the damage is a big concern. Probe the rust witha screwdriver and see if it is soft in the area. Contact Charley Osborne about the replacement parts for this. His co. is Zedd Findings zeddfind@kos.net as far as I am concernd he makes the best replacement sheet metal parts available. If one of the rubber lines was weak they all are , do the rest. As to the paint , it all depends on what you intend for the car. Most body shops will produce a 6 to 10' job. That is standing 6' to 10' away it looks good. Show quality jobs come at a vary much higher price, but look super. Most body shops slap on bondo for filler because it is fast and cheep. Quality comes at a price. You need to set a goal and expectations and go from there. If you only want a great looking driver that is one thing if what you desire is a Restoration that is another and a wholy different thing . A show car another . It sounds like to me what you are looking for is a good looking solid driver, that you can enjoy . Not a garage queen. Look for a painter and body man that does customs , cars for show, hot rods and the like. These are the craftsmen that create the good work. Sadly today , most ''body'' shops are pannel replacers they dont take the time to work the metal insted they slap on the filler, ie bondo . If you are looking for quality , find one of those shops . Dont sand blast or media blast untill you concult the painter ! My 2c Gary

I wish you the vary best on the ''restore''. A redo of the sort that you have outlined and with the visible rust shown . I am afraid that the 10K wont come close . The rust repair alone will likely cost you 2 1/2K if the rocker are as bad as shown and most likely a floor pan is involved. Engine rebuild around 2K+ , body and paint depending on what you desire and rust damage 2 to 3K . Rebuilding the trans 5 hundred. Replacing all the brake lines and going over all the suspention , struts and all , another 1K+ . We havent started with the interior and we are at $8,500. There will be a lot of little things like a cooling systime , chrome , weather stripping alone is $200. The labor cost is what is going to mount up. As you said just take it to the mechanic and then to the body man , then to the painter. I dident include the labor cost to remove and replace the engine and trans and get it back in running order . How is the glass , are there any scratches or chips ? They may look ok now but when the car is all brite and polished if the chrome or glass look dingy it will not be acceptable to you. I am only telling you this as a reality check and to prepair you for what is ahead . Especially since you are having most of the work done by others. I truly hope it works for you , and if you ever need any information this web site is the place to find it. Many of us have gone down this road . Welcome to the club. Gary

My Z had a couple of bad teeth from someone turning the key to start while the engine was running. Every once in a while when I would go to start the engine it would clash gears. I ended up pulling the engine and trans as a unit. I wanted to redo the engine bay and repaint . Other wise just pull the trans . I would think about replacing the clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing as well as the pilot bearing at the same time. This way you wont be back doing it in the near future. What Mike W said about the starter is true , it could just be the spring. By the way Welcome to the club . Gary

Plus the brake fluid will damage the vac booster.

If your car has a electric pump it will be right next to the fuel tank on the passenger side. If it has a manual only then chances are it is shot. Again if there is a electric pump there should be filter between the pump and tank. It is a inline filter about 3'' long and about 1'' in dia. This could be plugged. If there is a electric check to see if it runs when you turn the key to the start position. If there is no electric pump or inline filter , if you have access to compressed air try blowing some air back through the fuel line to the tank. Just incase there is a blockage. If this proves neg. then the mechanical pump needs to be replaced . I don't think that Nissan has new pumps , they are over a hundred bucks if they do. Just go to a parts store and buy a rebuilt. But do the checking I posted first . Good luck Gary

The only rust that I saw was at the lower front fender , caused from debris draining down from the cowl and collecting between the fender and the body. The fender needs to be repaired . The main worry is if it has impacted the rail or not. The rest of the car looks nice. I would think that it would go for around 4 to 5K . To bad the engine by is not the same color as the car , this is a big negetive for me . Over all the body looks good . Before I would buy , I would want a Z person to look at it and check the rails and floor especially the driver's side.

No brainer both the pole and the answer

EXACTIALLY ! TOO LATE SMART HERE ! THIS WAS A GREAT SYSTIME , NOW WE WILL NEED TO COME UP WITH A BETTER ONE .

The Engine Looks Rough , What Is The Avatar A Corvair With A Spoiler ?????????/

Fuel pumps last for years. I don't suspect that . The filter could be clogged , a good possability the way you described the engine was acting. I would just replace it , there cheep and you will need one eventually any way. There may still be filter screens in the inlet to the carbs , most of us remove these . When you check for spark at the plugs , if there isn't any , remove the dist cap . If you are still running points check to see if they are burned or pitted. If eather , replace them as well as the condenser . At this point DO NOT START TRYING ANY ADJUSTING OR MESSING WITH THE CARBS. Solve the starting issue . Gary

Motorsport , there web site is www.zcarparts.com All the best to you . Gary

The weight depends on the year of the Z . My '73 is 2650 with a half tank and me in it. So 2430 . The height of the front is 23 1/4'' from the tip on the hood at the upper edge , to the ground.

Sorry , I am not sure what you are refering to . Fliping what upside down ? Are you meaning the bumper or the fender ? I know you said fender . The pictures ,although nice , are absolutly are of no help. Gary

There are two different automatics in the early Zs the A wich is in the '71 and the B that is in the later cars . My understanding is that parts for the A are no longer available, wile the B is still rebuildable. They will stand up to some abuse but are not unbrakeable.