beandip

One problem is that I only have the motor that came with the car and I am assumeing that it is a '73 I also have a motor from a '75Z and it is wired the same but the plug is different , which is no big deal . However both of the motors have 6 wires and the '72 loom has only 5 . No yellow wire. My wireing diagram shows the yellow goes into the relay on a 73 , but the 72 diagram doesnt show a relay at all ?? Help if you can . I still have the old wireing , that I removed but I dont even know what the relay looks like if I see it . There must be someone in the club that has installed a later year wyper motor in a eailer Z. Gary :surprised

Send a PM to Phred this is his area . He builds Z engines

D master , I used some stuff called brown bread that I bought from a company called B-quiet in Canada. It comes in a roll 12'' wide and 50' long and I used about 1 and 3/4 rolls , but did the whole firewall and floor as will as inside the doors and rear fenders. It is a self sticking foil faced product about 1/16'' thick or so and it limits the vibration of the sheet metal. Over this on the firewall I was able to use the jute insulation , origional stuff. How ever you might try a boat builder or supply . They use foil backed insulation for sound and heat around the engines. I used a product like this on the trans tunnel . I bought it on line from JC Whitney , it is about 3/8'' + in thickness and is foil backed . For this I used spray on contact cement. I also used it on the firewall and on the floor in the hatch area . Over the brown bread . I figure I used about 75 feet plus of the brown bread material. I looked but B-Quiet dident put there email address on the invoice and I cant remember what it is . I am sure someone will come up with it for you. Gary

in my state hit and run is a felony .

I am in the process of finishing the redo of my '73 240 . I have had to replace the entire wireing in the car do to a PO that had sh$% for brains. I am using the entire loom from a '72 . I am at the point now of connecting the ignition , wypers and light switch at the steering column which is all from the old '73 , and it has intermitten wypers and such. The connecters are different between the two years of Z and I am trying to puzzle through this. The wireing diagram for the '73 shows a relay for the wypers . If anyone has a '73 and can tell me what it looks like and or describe it , part numbers or letters , location or what ever , this will be a great help . I stripped out the old wireing over two years ago and now I cannot remember this part. The dash is all in , no trouble there , the same with the engine bay and the tail lights . But this part I can use some help. Thanks Gary I am aware that the 73 and later wypers have an additional yellow wire to deal with and I assume that it is for the intermittent detent.

I recommend using only Nissan oil sending unit . I have tried aftermarket and was not satisfied. For many things ,aftermarket parts are fine , this isn't one of them . In my openion . Gary

exactly what dist did you install ? I have been using a '79ZX ignition in my '73 with the stock tack since about '02 with no problems. Gary

ZIII, Thanks for the good information and the web site address. Gary :rambo:

ED , I did the same thing after seeing escanlons . I did the inside of the gages , and all the exterior and interior lights white . Major difference . All are as brite as on a new car. Now the gages just the inside in back of the face is what was painted white , from the front they look stock , it' the light reflecting around that makes the difference . Silver doesn't reflect as much I tried that also . The head light wire up grade , with the relays is a must for all 240 cars in my openion . I cant rember the members name that makes and sells them ,but Scanlon and I each bought the set up from him and this alone make a total difference in the dash and tail lights as well , with the load off the stock wireing to the head lights , every thing else is 40% brighter. In fact you can use the dash light dimmer switch now . Gary

run some injector cleaner in the gas for a tank or two. This may help a lot if they are slightly blocked and like the privious suggestion it wont heart any thing in any event. My truck and family car are injected and I do this about every 6 months . Marviel Mystery oil will suffice in the oil treatment mentioned to loosen the rings . I don't recommend oil additives in the crank case as it tends to dilute the good oil that you should be using. I use about a teaspoon full of Mystery oil in each cylinder . More than that just makes a mess and is blown out the plug hole when you spin the engine.

My son has a '72 VW convertable . Does anyone know of a web site or info on parts for an old ''BUG'' ? Thanks Gary

Could be a bad valve . However since the engine hasn't run in some time It could be a chunk of crud on a valve seat that is keeping the valve from seating . Whish I could be of more help. Gary

First of all you said carb. and in single ? Zs have two . What is the car you are asking about . This is a Zcar web site mostly , some times we can help with other cars . If the floors are rusted out the repair is vary costly. If the car is a Z , Zedd Findings has floors. Screwing in the new floors is foolhardy , dangerous and a waist of time. For the bleed screw that is broken. Replace the offending wheel cylinder . Brakes are nothing to compromise on . If they fail where are you ???????? REPLACE IT. In the future please offer more information . I find it difficult to read your mind.

In the future , if you need to find the correct timing for the ignition . Remove the spark plug from # 1 and remove the coil wire from the dist cap . put your finger over the plug hole and have some one " tap '' the starter so it just barely turns the engine . When the piston comes up on the compression stroke you will feel the air push your finger. If you can do this and stop it in time you will be able to see the top of the piston with a flash light. You can turn the engine with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut . Then just align the rotor so it points to the spark plug wire in the dist cap that runs to the # 1 plug. From there you will need a timing light to do the rest correctly . Gary

is this seat of the pants HP or actual HP from a dyno readout ? I havent seen any real numbers yet from a dyno that shows a gain from the stock air cleaner box with a K & N filter.

I am sorry to inform you that to find a completly cherry 240 for the price you are looking , is going to be really hard. A Z that is rust free and completely un modfied will cost at least 10K . I have seen one two years ago and it had only 67K on the clock and it was at the $13k range. The really clean cars are few and far between. This is why we are rebuilding what we can . If you have the BUCKS , you will find a truly fine Z . Gary

Dave , whow , the wire that powers the pump is a solid green wire. The best person that knows the wireing inside and out is escanlon . send him him a P M and he will be able to help. Gary

Dave , whow , the wire that powers the pump is a solid green wire. The best person that knows the wireing inside and out is escanlon . send him him a P m and he will be able to help. Gary

Dave , whow , the wire that powers the pump is a solid green wire. The best person that knows the wireing inside and out is escanslon . send him him a P m and he will be able to help. Gary

ncz , I recently replaced the passenger side floor pan with a Zedd Findings unit. They are first class and fit quite well , with little fitting. I over lapped my edges about 1 1/2'' and held it in place with self tapping sheetmetal screws so the welder could not waist time having to do any thing but weld the seam and remove the screws and fill them as he went . Be sure to clean the metal well on both sides before assembly . There is a welder here on the site that uses a paint made just for this process that supresses rust in the weld. You might do a search for that info. I used POR both on top and under to seal the bare metal.

Just think of the boats you see each spring along the road parked with a wheel missing.

unless you enjoy replacing ujoints the cheep ones are not worth the time to install them. I agree with bambikiller there shouldent be any play at all in them . I would replace them both while you have the shaft out . In fact I recommend changing all four. If one is shot the others will fail vary soon . I dident do this on my car and I was back in two weeks doing the other shaft. Gary P S I think mine were about $20. + each . That was 5 years ago.

escanlon installed the wireing loom that Dave makes and I think it increased his brightness by 40% . Dash lights and tail lights as well . Just installing the new wireing . I have the same set up in my Z but I havent powered it up yet. I did install the high wattage bulbs , Krypton 90s I think . With only about 5 amps going to the switch all should be good.

iT SEEMS AS THOU OUR MEMBERS IN OZ HAVE SOME REGS TO CONTEND WITH THAT WE DONT. The bracket that Dave makes works and will handel the high Hp launch . Sorry mates . Cheers Gary

THIS IS A GREAT CAR . I THINK IT IS THE CLEANEST ONE I HAVE SEEN ON THIS WEB SITE , BEFORE WORK WAS DONE. IT COST YOU SOME BUT YOU ARE MONEY AHEAD . REALLY NICE. gARY