beandip

My question is this; will this set-up provide enough backpressure for a stock engine??? The reason I ask this is because while the dynomax I will be using is an oval style muffler its in reality a fancy looking glasspack (so far as I can tell, check out the link to see what I mean) and I dont want to lose a lot of midrange torque from this system. Thanks!!!!! :classic: Derek Derek , you should be spot on. You should have great low in torque , at least what these little engines can provide. If you were after only top end performance then I would say go for Headers and 2 1/2'' . I have consulted a few people I know ,that are in the business of building race and performance Z engines and this is the setup you have that is recommended. Bigger isn't always better . Gary

It makes absolute sence if you are of there mind set. They are at war and view nonbelivers , non muslum , to be infidels and simply they hate us and our life style. NOW HAVING SAID THIS . Not all Muslums are of this belief . The majority are pease loving people . It's the radicals that are causing all the death and distruction. We need to support our leaders and law inforcement . In the US it would help to close the borders, but this will be difficult politicly . We will after we get hit again and some more people are killed.

I have not used KMax , however I have used an injecter cleaner in our Camery and it made a difference in the runability of that little four banger. If the stuff is a fuel additive it SHOULDENT hurt anything . As far as raising the compression , sounds like snake oil talk to me . I wont use any additive in the oil thou . I use good premium oil and there is no need . If you try to '' flush'' the engine you can dislodge particlules that can block oil passages , not a good thing. If you think the oil or the engine is dirty inside change the oil more often , this is what the additives and the filter are for. If you want to add something to the fuel buy some Marvel Mystery oil and add 3 or 4 ounces to the tank of gas . Agan it won't hurt anything and it will provide some upper cylinder lube. If the engine is tight , high compression , you may find that it may ping on regular gas . If this is the case try Plus. ''goober huh '' :rambo:

Hay Sports Fans ! This Guy Is A Gonner . He Has A Worse Case Of Z Fever Than I First Thought . Might As Well Sitck In The Fork Because He Is D O N E !!

This is exactly what has been said over and over since 9 11 . The terrorist are at war with the '' infidels'' . It's a holy war for them . Why do you think we are in Afganistan and Irak ? We must keep London in our prayers . They have endured in the past and they will again . They are our friends and friends stick together.

bemmerguy714 I hope you were not in the garage when you typed that remark about the ''luxury/performance'' statement ! If you were you might just as well hang on the sign and put her on craig's list . She won't ever forgive you . What is the asking price ?? KdMatt reread DatsunzRule's post again. You see he is one of the unbelivers that left his Debit card on the console. He has the virus and is infected . To late there is no cure for the Z infection. Did you see the list of stuff his Z told him to buy for her ? :laugh: Like Scanlon said be cool and treat her right and enjoy the ride . Welcome . Gary

as well as the other things mentioned above , it has a dash cap and the front bumper is crooked. I agree about the car being of parts form many cars. I wouldent buy it unless I either saw pictures of the bare floor and rockers both from on top and under the car . Also the same for the battery area. That or a certified inspecton from a apraiser of classic cars. Or saw it my self in person.

71_240Z , Welcome . You mentioned that you found rust below the battery tray. The frame rail is just below the battery . Are there any rust holes in the rail? If so this is a must repair. What is known as the dog leg is the area just to the rear of the door and ahead of the rear wheel down low. If you need a floor pan Zeddfindings has the best quality . Plus Charley Osborne is a vary helpfull guy. zedfind@kos.net Rust on the hatch sill is common but usually is found at the corners where the sill meets the finder. If you get industrious and ever pull the front fenders , you will find a design flaw were the cowl drains into a chamber just forward of the doors . Debris and dirt deposited there cause the rust problems found at the lower fender section . And with the frame rail that is also the rocker pannel runing along the floor below the door. You mentioned that you may need some tools. Look at harbor freight , they have great deals on tools like jack stands and such. They are on line also and will ship. As for the serial , that is up to debate. If kept origional by all means it is important. I for one am not doing so. I have a 280zx engine and later diff. I am keeping the rest of the Z stock looking except for the paint which is a nonstock yellow. The vary best with your project , remember if you have ANY questions , were here . Gary

If the wrist pin fails you will loose the block and crank most likely and the head vary likely . So if you want to sweep up the engine and dump it in a box . Keep pushing it. you have more to worry about than bad gas mileage .

I would offer 2K and go from there . he can only say no . and will come back with another figure. You might save 5c though. You will need it . Good luck . I hope you are right about the rust. Or lack of. Gary

guy714 ok. picture # 1 red/ blue is coming from the inspection light in the enine bay and connects to a green/blue before connecting to the fuse block. Black wires are ground wires. red/black is coming from the head lights and is connected to the same color and goes to the combo switch. # 2 I cant tell anything with the picture. # 3 white/red comes from the alternator and connects to the same color and goes to the fuse block then from there it goes to the ammeter gage. Now this is from a schematic for a '72Z . I hope this is of some help. Send escanlon a PM , he is the wireing guru here . At least it is a start. Gary

The muffler with the two outlets , one over the other was like the origional 240 muffler . Monza is a after market part

could you be talking of the fuseable link ? the large white wire that connects to the + side of the starter ? Gary

If you have a bad wrist pin to the point of it rattling as you said , it wont be alright . For one thing 17MPG is way off , unless you have your foot in it all the time . Post a question for the running rich problem . There are members here that really know injection and can help. I am not one of them. Sorry But a bad wrist pin or a rod bearing are nothing to fool with and needs to be addressed. Just dont run to high revs untill you figure out the knock you are hearing . It could be caused by something else but from your description I am not optomistic. Gary

Just for the discussion , I agree with 260DET , ZRUSH and 1BRAVO6 . Any modification to the style of the car is a personal thing . If you are striving for function over looks , this is one thing . Style over function is the other. There is middle ground , but if it isn't to your likeing , go with your own ideas. The blunt rounded look is not to my taste at all. This is the main reason I dislike the look of the 350Z . I am not a fan of the 300ZXs either for the same reason , plus they look vary simular to so many other cars on the road . Bottom line is , if you like the looks of the air dam and spoiler , by all means do them . If you dont you will be sorry later . Gary

Thanks Will , I just dident know how to submit this to the web site. Gary :laugh:

I don't find a white /red but there is a red/white is this what you mean ? The red /white goes to and from the combination switch and to he headlights. according to the '72 diagram. is this what you are asking? Gary

You asked for input. on a one to ten scale the air dam is a -1 the spoiler is a 9. The air dams look like swollen lips to me . sorry you asked.

Dave , you might want to check with the Oregon specs on window tinting. It is even different than Washington. SUVs , trucks and limmos , fall into a different set of specs . I am not saying you cant do it but you are setting your self up for a ticket . I was going to take all my glass in and have it tinted . I thought $185. for a few bucks worth of tinting was just too much and decided to pass. I like tinted windows don't like blue. I also found that tinting used for homes is not legal at all. Because of the reflective properties.

More than likely the cylinders are all shot. Plan on replacing the master cylinder for the brakes and clutch as well as the slave clinder for the cutch and all the wheel cylinders . You might be able to blow out the brake lines with compressed air with out removing them from the car. Change all the rubber brake lines at each wheel. If not leaking now they will be in short order . They are cheep and will give you piece of mind later. Check the e-brake cable , many times they jamb and will not release in the sheath they are in. Be aware that the e-brake use , is the way the rear brakes adjust . When all is in working order . Each time the e-brake is used , if there is enough wear in the linings to allow an ajustment , when the e-brake is used it takes up the slack and this keeps the brakes in adjustment. If you havent tried to start the engine. Drain the oil and change the oil filter and plan on doing it again in about two hundred miles or less. Replace the fuel filter. Drain the fuel tank and blow out the fuel lines . remove the spark plugs and squirt in some oil in the plug hole. Marvel Mystery oil is a good one for this . If the engine is not frozen up and after the oil has been changed and oil in the cylinders , spin the engine on the starter 10 or so revolutions. This will oil the cylinders and help starting fresh oil moving . Likely the carbs are gumed up too. Buy some carb cleaner and shoot some in the top of the float chambers , this will help to free up any varnish and can help the flow of fuel. Watch to make sure that the carbs dont over flow when the engine starts running. If the engine does start , keep the RPMs up to about 1500 or so RPM so the oil pressure is up and every thing is moveing properly. If any clanking or screeching or weard noises are heard , shut it down. Watch the temp so that the engine dosent over heat . The best of luck to you and welcome to the club . Gary

Sounds like you have found a diamond in the rough. If you want street drive ability do not repace the rubber suspention parts with ureathane. Many members use this as a replacement , which is great for raceing and the track. However it transfers road noise to the cabin of the car and for a normal driver can be anoyng. With the age of the car expect to be changing the rubber brake lines at all four wheels . At the vary least change the brake fluid if it is dark. Check all rubber hoses for stiffness and cracks. It would not be a supprise that the struts , shocks , are in need of replacement . This would account for the bottoming out . I am supprised that the tires are rubbing . Describe what the wheels look like . The bubbling of the paint is of concern . It depends on where it is located . Generally it means that moisture is behind the metal and is rusting through form the back . You dident say where the bubbling is , but the two areas of concern are just infornt and to the rear of the doors down low along the bottom of the car. Both are known trouble areas. There and below the battery . One more place is on the sill of the rear hatch. I hope when you lift the carpets the floors are not rusted as well. Glenn , welcome to the club . We are here to help where we can . Gary

I doubt the air in the line idea . Have you checked the spark plugs after the low RPM driving that you were referring to ? It could be that you could have a weak spark plug or a plug wire that is starting to fail. At freeway speeds it clears itself out but at the lower RPMs starts loading up. Make sure the chokes are not hanging up and are in good ajustment. On a side note , use some anti-seize on the spark plug threads . When removing a spark plug from a warmed up engine with a aluminum head you can damage the threads in the head. The anti- seiz will eliminate the possability . The problem you describe dosent sound like Carbs , other than choke . I think you are looking at a ignition weakness. Are you running points or electronic ignition ? You dont show what year Z this is .