beandip

When it was stated that you can use the stock coil . Not he 240 coil but the ZX coil and it will be on 12 volts and no resister. Gary

First of all is the engine leaking Oil ? If you don't find puddles of oil under the car in the morning then it is burning oil. It sounds like that is the case from just the little you have posted here. It also sounds like the engine is running rich like you said . I cannot help with injection , sorry. If you know anyone that has a compression testing set , checking the compression is a good idea. The plugs being fowled are they wet and oily , or just black and wet with fuel ? Also when you said they are fowled , is the engine missing , or are you just pulling them to see how they look ? Gary

Sorry I can't be of help . The picture is too fuzzy and I cannot tell the location where it is in the engine bay . The white thing looks like one half of a inline fuse holder. Don't have a clue what the gray box is . Sorry Gary

mc75z , The P-90 if not milled will give you vary low compression on your L-28 , because it has dished pistons and the P-90 is meant to run with a Turbo charger to boost the compression. It is a much better head than the other two you mentioned because it has a better designed combustion chamber and larger valves. If you were using a flat top piston block , 54 , block this would help. So if you have the head milled to boost the compression , it will be a good up grade. Not having done this set up . I am only repeating the information that I have learned . I am running a F-54 block flat topped pistons and a P-79 head , which was for a injected application . There are two different 88 heads , one from a '72z and the other from a '73 which is a emission detuned application with lower compression. Gary

I agree with jmortensen on the dist. As to the question on the mixture I think it is too rich at 2 1/2 turns out . It is OK for starters but you will need to adjust from here. You need to sort out he ignition first . I am running a '79ZX ignition and really like it. You also need the ZX coil and eliminate the resister. All the non turbo dist will work from '79 to '83 , but you need the 12 80 module that attaches to the side of it. There is allot of information on this and adjusting the mixtures here . do a search and you will find it all . Gary:p

Welcome to the group and if we can be of any help or if there is something that you have experience with , please feel free to share it with the rest of us. We are all still learning things about these great little cars . Again welcome Gary

I know this is a paint/body section but , I think it fits here. The window channel that fits in chrome trim surrounding the door glass. A good source for this stuff in good old J.C Whitney I used it some time ago and I recommend it. The part number is 18SB4877X It comes in a 8' length and you need two. $9.00 each . Another thing the fuzzy stuff that contacts the glass , inner belt weatherstrip , 19SB3480P It comes in a 6' strip and one will do both doors. $15.00 I attached it to the door panel with pop rivets , use a knife to remove some of the fuzzy material to make room for the pop rivet , this way it is way below the level of the fuzz and wont touch the glass. They also have door gasket . I haven't used this myself but Ed used it on his beautiful restore and really recommends it . Says after installation it looks like the original stuff. Comes in a 25' roll , $34.99 13SB2561U . They also have a fuel tank sealer/liner they sell for $33.00 I just was thinking some one might need this for there Zs Gary:rambo:

You mentioned that looking at the stamp from different angles the numbers could be a P-70 . Well there is a P-79 head . It is from a injected 280ZX If it is a P-90 as was stated before , that came from a 280ZX turbo. One thing , the P-79 has liners showing in the exhaust ports . The P-90 doesn't. Gary

Welcome and your Z is beautiful . I like what you have done . The whole package looks first rate. Gary

Welcome to the infected gear heads , since this is your second one you are infected as well . Good to have you with us . Gary:classic:

When we sprayed the cement on the roof we didn't put any closer than about three inches out from all edges. I marked the head liner first at a center line in the front and also in the back and did a trial fit before any cement. My friend and I then sat in the seats after covering the dash and all in case of over spray and shot the roof as well as the head liner. We tucked the liner in the front then positioned all so the lines lined up then from the front pushed the liner firmly to the roof. We used the plastic squeegees that are made for applying body filler to push the head liner in the edges all around being careful not to damage the surface . Using a towel we then worked the headliner over to make sure there was no gaps or air pockets. Be sure that the cement is applied evenly and on both surfaces . allow the cement to tack before installation. I hope his is of help . One more thing , I wouldn't try this by my self as it is tricky to align the head liner to square by your self . Contact cement bonds immediately when the two surfaces are touched together . You may be able to adjust just a little if only a vary small amount of the liner is contacted if done immediately. But don't count on it. good luck . Gary

Mike she is looking GOOD. From one yellow Z driver to another , I love the color !! Way back when I first saw your Z , shortly after she was painted , I liked the color. And a couple of years later when I was picking colors and which way I was going to go. I remembered your Z and that made my choice. You are doing a beautiful job . About he rear finisher and what is being tossed about. I shot my finisher Metallic Black . I do like the contrast but one thing I did find is in the sunlight it looks great and also when lights are shining on it. But other than that , the metallic makes it look dusty. I shot the spaces between my turbine spokes on the wheels with it also, while the car was apart. I find the same with them and am always trying to wipe nonexistent dust from them. I am nitpicking this mine you but it is something to consider. Your Z and mine have been so long in pieces , yours much longer , it will be great to see them on a cruse together some time . I am sure you are getting impatient, waiting to take her out for a drive after so long . Really good to see the progress. Gary

Steve , no you will be OK . It is just if you used a glass p that has louvers in the inner tubing then you have restricted the opening by the size of the louvers. so a 2 1/4 is down to a 2'' in reality . this will negate the benefits of the header. This is why I recommended either a ''race'' glass p or a Thrush because they have perforated pipe and the size of the inlet and outlet is what it is all the way through. You must keep in mind the larger plumbing is a benefit at the higher RPM like on track use really. How many times do you keep your engine spooled up to 4 or 5k and keep it there. And then down to 3500 and up to the upper Rs . For the track this is important but on the street only if you drive the same. It's the flow while you are in the power band , that is dictated by cam . Gary

the part you need looks vary much like the 240 piece that the old dist used. I had one but recently gave it to a friend sorry. The difference between the 240 part and the ZX is the place where the dist bolts to. It is in a different location so the dist is turned and wont allow you to properly set the timing . This is for anyone reading this to know the reason . Gary

Any one in the Portland area that has a 280 with a splash pan ? I recently needed to replace my 240 radiator and I installed a 3 core 280 unit. As you know they extend down below the radiator support about 2'' . The 240 splash pan will not fit any longer unless I make a couple of cuts and reshape the front of it , when I add the 2'' filler that will protect the tank. I really dislike cutting into the stock pan and was wondering if some one had a 280 that I could compare to and see if I could make one of those work. I am going to look at the bone yard for one , but I don't get to them vary often any more as the local ones rarely have any Zs . Gary :bandit:

For your information you can use the Dist from all the non turbo ZXs from '79 -'83 . there is a slight difference between the automatic car and the manual. I have been told to use he manual . The little module that was shown though must be one of the 12 80 units. So you have many more years to pick from but just a '79 -'80 that has the 12 80 . There is a way to use the other module but in involves a different vacuum advance and a second vacuum line to manifold vac + making a retard limiter. Gary

I did install the '75 shoulder belts and re tractors and they work vary well . As nucubsman said , I had the '73 metal clips sewn in just as they were by a shoe repair shop and you cannot tell it was done .

I painted mine black. If you leave them white you will see all the dirt and or water spots . If you built a trailer queen then leave them white . My 2cts

I was holding off on doing the disk conversion, however today I was shopping around and priced the wheel cylinders for my '73 . At $75.00 each just for the wheel cylinders , I think I will be doing the upgrade soon . Gary:classic:

Heat , they are just what they are named insulators . Help to keep he heat from the intake and head from the car base.

Rainman , welcome to the web site . If you follow the thread from waking the beast you will have as good of a outcome possible. So much depends on the moisture in the air. Medford being much drier that up here in Portland you may have dodged the bullet. I had my engine stored in a barn for almost 3 years and it was fine. Although I oiled the cylinders and turned it over about once a month. Keep us all posted . Gary

Question , when you reach 55 how is the engine running . Missing , backfiring, or just flat and wont turn any higher revs ? Did your Mechanic check the fuel pressure the pump is putting out ? You need 4 to 5 lbs. pressure. If the vacuum hose to the advance is this rotted check the rest of the vac. hoses also and if in doubt change them , there cheep. If you change any of the rubber fuel line be SURE they are for fuel . Vacuum line will fail if used for fuel . With the engine running is the fuel filter full , half full , what . One thing you can do is to drive the car and take it up to speed and when it flattens out shut of the key and kick it out of gear and have a look at the filter and see if it is full or what. If you have a blockage at the tank the filter will be less than full . This could also be from a weak pump but if the pressure at idle is 4 or 5 lbs I don't think it is the pump . I agree with the others I think this is fuel related. Gary:rambo:

Check your PMs , Zags

Just as a point or reference . The splash pan that fits my '73 will not fit a '71 . Scanlon tried it on his Z . Gary