beandip

Mike , is this the engine that was in the 2+2 that you had ? Just wondered . Your Z really is looking good . I saw it last week when I was at ZT . When do you expect it to be road ready ? Gary

The differences between the L-24 and the L-26 & L-28 , is the length of stroke . the bore is larger on the L-28 and this engine has dished pistons . F-54s all have flat top pistons unless it is a turbo engine. Then they are dished . Gary

Not as secure as you think . Many of the Z keys will open your door. I know I have a few keys and have tried them on friends Z and they have on mine .

Robby, Welcome to the club. As was already mentioned , have a look around and you will find available tons of information when you do a search . There are members here that really know there stuff on these cars . If you cannot find what you are looking for , please ask .Gary

:nervous: This can be very good news. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER. remember , when the engine was shut down all these years. There were two cylinders open to the out side atmosphere. It can easily cause the rings to be rusted to the bore for one and or the valve stems could have also have rusted some . If you spin the engine with the starter , provided you could . You easily can have a valve stick in the open position and a piston will strike it . Most likely bending the valve stem and it could damage the piston. Drain all the fluids , and change the oil filter. Pull the spark plugs and squirt in some ATF , about a half ounce in each cylinder and let the engine sit and the oil soak . Pull the valve cover and have a look for rust on the cam . If all is looking OK , pour some oil over the valve train to coat everything . Use a socket on the crank pulley nut and with a break-over bar turn the engine over if you can . If it is a no go , then let it set while the ATF penetrates for 24 hrs , try again . If still a no go , try putting it in gear and rocking the car back and forth and see if you can cause the engine to turn over . If this works then use the wrench on the crank to turn it over and watch the valves to see if you see any stick . If all looks good and you have rotated the engine some by hand , then use the starter to spin the engine . I pour oil into the new filter before I install it to speed up the lubrication process since the engine will be dry of oil after setting for so long . When you are satisfied that you are getting lubrication to the cam and the valves seem to be OK , install the spark plugs and start her up . I know this is all basic stuff , but I have seem many guys , over the years , that find a car like this one you have . They get in a hurry to start the engine and because they don't take the time to make sure all is good , they screw up the engine big time . Hopefully you don't brake a ring ,or find rust in the cylinders .:nervous: Gary

Send a PM to Carl Beck . He has had at least one claim . Gary

You might try Troy Thacker at Too Intense Restoration, DatsonRestore.com Zed Findings , datsunzparts.com Charley Osborne comes up with this sort of stuff and is likely to be of help . The factory service manuals were hard to come by 6 years ago I settled for a Clymer shop manual specifically the one for 240-280Z&ZX on the front for 1970-79 . there are others but this one is the better one . The book How To Restore your DATSUN Z-CAR BY Wick Humble . I highly recommend it . I bought mine at Amazon.com I have used it extensively over the past years . All the best . Gary I just checked Barnes & Noble has the Wick Humble bood . Amazon no longer does. $17.95

I recommend that the secound thing you do is to check with DMV and do a surch and find out if it is a stolen car . It would be the pits to resurect the car and then find out someone else will be driving it . I would also see what the penitlitys might be for lack of licensing . Some states like Calif will have severe charges . As to the engine . Personally I would rebuild a later 280 engine rather than the L-24 since it is already stroked . In comparrison to the 240 . If what you say about the trans being a 5 speed it may already have a L-28 engine in it. If what you said about it setting for 20 years is right. You are looking at a staggering amount of work and expense ahead of you. Good luck with your project though . This is the right place to come if you need any information or help finding parts . Gary

Wingo , you asked for our thoughts. Personally I would pass right off because of the fact it is a right hand drive . That is if I would want the car to drive on the street here in the USA. I wouldent buy any car off EBay anyway unless I saw it inperson first , or had someone that I knew personally that looked at it for me . Just too many variables , especially with a Z . The different color hood dosent mean crap to me . The car needs paint anyway. Gary

Congratulations to you and your family . Now let the fun begin. Enjoy every minute the time goes by so quickly . Gary

I trailered my Z to a certified welder and he welded in my floor pan . He told me that he had trouble with his MIG and ended up using his TIG welder. I cannot weld a stitch so I cannot advise in any way . Just passing on what was what on my car . He did say that the thin metal was a factor . One thing I did screw in my floor with self tapping screws and they were about 5 inches apart all the way around . He filled the holes after pulling the screws as he went . Maybe this was a factor . I don't know . Gary Zed Findings floor pan .

I vote no to the side bumpers . I removed mine and filled the holes while I was preping for paint. I like the less is more look. I don't run the rubber on the bumpers or the vertical guards either. I wish I had filled the holes for the marker lights . That look makes the car sleeker and cleaner lines . In my view. Gary

Don't get hung up on the little badge in the engine bay that says what the HP the engine has . Rear wheel figures is what counts . Where the rubber meets the road . Or the meats meet the road , so to speak , . There is a member here that has a '70 240 that he built the engine in his home garage . He is running SUs and street tires. He drives the car to and from the drag strip and as a pleasure driver. He turns in the 12s in the 1/4 . Pretty good for a 100 year old can with a hole in it technology. I grant you the engine is built but is NOT running any turbo , just two SUs . No triples no injection just SUs . Injection is fantastic for drivabiltiy and will pass emissions . The computer does the thinking for you when the engine is cold or if you go from low to high elevations, it sets the mixture of fuel to air. I am not anti injection at all . I have three vehicles with it . But don't discount the use of the SUs on these Z engines. Rememer the engine design is old technology too. Gary :knockedou

Actually I did put the B-Quiet inside he hatch it's self and that stopped all the drum effect . Now is sounds as solid as a freezer door. I used the B-Quiet on the floor of the hatch area , then the JC Whitney product over that as a pad for the carpet. I used the spray on contact cement #77 and stuck the stuff on the under side of the lid for the spare tire also. I covered about all the sheet metal I could reach even inside the tool boxes . The stuff helps to eliminate the drum effect of the sound coming from the outside. As to weight , I may have added about 35 lbs to the car with the 75 sq. ft. that I installed. If you tap your knuckle on my hatch or rear finder or either of the doors , there is no tinny sound . It is solid sounding. This is what I was after , making the car quiet . Gary

Jon , you might have misread my post . this is about a bone stock L-24 and adding triples . On a 280 with some moderate mods , this is another matter . Over carbreating a engine will loose drive ability . Unless your are going to be driving in the upper Rs all the time like on the track again another matter . As you stated you added headders and head work as well as a cam. Gary

I did exactly what you are about to do and have never been happier with the change . The 280 will really wake up your Z . Be sure to keep the 240 intake manifold and do get a set of round tops. You will also need the throttle linkage that connects the carbs together . The flat tops are different spacing. Also you need the thicker insulators that go between the carb and the manifold. I was just at ZTherapy this afternoon and they have the early air cleaners for the SUs hanging on a wall . My engine is a ZX with a P-79 head , it has the round ports. I am running a header . Gary

I needed to replace the floor pan on the passenger side and only repair some small holes by cutting away the problem area and welding in some sheet metal. the passenger floor I installed one of Zedd Findings floor pans and too the car to a certified welder that did all the tig welding . I then prepped all the bear metal and used POR both inside and under the car . Over this I applied B-Quiet ultimate . I covered every square inch of the floors cowl tranny tunnel about 80% of the inside of the doors , inside the rear fenders as far as I could reach . I also applied it to the back side of the plastic trim panels in the hatch area. All in all I used right at 75 sq ft of material . It comes 12 '' by what ever length you order . If I remember right 12' lengths or a roll of 50' I went with two 50 footers . It is a peal and stick with a aluminum exposed face . You can cut it with heavy duty scissors or razor knife . I found it vary easy to work with and I am VARY happy with the resonance deadening quality . In the hatch area I used a product from JC Whitney . It is meant for use under the hood or for marine use for sound , It too is aluminum faced on one side and about 3/8'' thick and is comprised of a textile composite that is soft . It comes in a roll 48'' X 6' in length . This also can be cut with scissors . The end result is a quiet , for a 240 Z , that I can enjoy a conversation or listen to the radio . The ultimate is easily formed to the couture of the floors highs and lows and it bonds vary well to any surface. I didn't use it on the roof , I wasn't sure if the heat of the sun wouldn't loosen it in time. The new headliner is such that the foam back deadens the sound vary well there as well . Gary

I sent you a PM I just need your email address. gazza

I don't know if this will help in this situation , but I ran a 10gage wire from the valve cover back to the pig tail ground that attaches to the firewall . I used the valve cover bolt by #6 cylinder. Make sure the ground wires you have are making contact at both ends . Some times paint will not allow a good ground. Gary

OK , first the top seam E is talking about is the line all along the top where the finder contacts the inner finder and it seals the spray from entering the engine bay. Now for the drain. First of all you need a plumbing part . A 1'' 45 degree elbow out of PVC . this will just fit into the stub of tubing showing in the picture and the angle down will be just right. Then to this you connect a length of vinyl tubing ,or hose . All these are available at Lows or Home Depot. The large hose is routed to the drain hole provided by Nissan , behind the rubber flapper so it will dump on the ground. I secured all this with silicone to keep it all in place . I have been running this for a few years and it works great. The cavity that is exposed as well as the inner fender , this I coated with POR . Contents of the cowl dumping into the cavity without the hose in place , is what causes the rust-out of the bottom of the front fender and will also start the rocker to rust when it is perforated there . I found dust , dirt and particles of leaves and fir needles at the bottom of this area on both sides of the car. fortunately I found it in time . I live in Oregon , but even if you live in the desert . When you wash your car this area gets wet and if there is a deposit of dust and dirt it takes a long time to dry and it will rust out over time . thanks to escanlon . He is the one that came up with this . Gary

Send a PM to escanlon . I think he can be of help here . Gary Since you are new here PM is a private message. By the way welcome to the club . Gary

How about a cell phone ? BRAKER BRAKER GOOD BUDDY

:rambo: I used floor pans from Zedd Findings . They are first rate and I recommend them . They are better than the original floors. Charley Osborne has rockers , floors and many other replacement parts . They all are top quality. Gary