beandip

If the mechanical pump is acting up , watch it closely . Depinding how it fails , it can pump gas into the crankcase , or it can cause a major oil leak . One the local Z drivers lost the engine because of a faulty mechanical pump. His oil sending unit was acting up also and the loss of oil pressure , he thought was due to that . He almost sezed the engine . He had to replace the engine anyway . Gary

If you go to the '' bone yard '' and by chance find a RX-7 that is Carberanted , NOT fuel injected , get the pump . It is located just ahead of he diff on the driver side . They will pump right at 4 to 5 lbs and will not over whelm the carbs and will supply triples if needed . I bought a couple for $15.00 each and I have been running one for several years . Since I first posted this information about 4 years back they are getting difficult to find , at least in my area. Gary I think mine are from '79 or 80 cars .

I have trailered several but havent towed any Z . I did tow a Chevette for over 10k on a vacation . The Chevy dealer told me to put a 1/2'' galvinized pipe 90 degree elbow in the filler hole and then fill the trans to that leavel and put the plug in the fitting of corse . After 10,000 miles on the clock there were no problems . It seems that the cluster gear may be turning out of oil , at least on that tranny. Call Nissan or a transmission shop and see what they say . Otherwise it is so simple to pull the shaft and bag the trans to keep the dirt out , that I wouldent take the chance . How far are you planning to towing the car ? Gary

THE 12-80 MODULE WILL NOT WORK WITH THIS SET UP !!! They are not cheap either , New from Nissan they are about $120.00 The cheepest I have seen them is $68.00 on line for a after market part . The 12-80 module is for a '79---83 ZX dist. and yes it does screw to the side of it. And no not just any module will work with any electronic ignition . Wrong advise . Sorry to be blunt here , but this stuff is costly and you don't want to waist the cash . Gary :stupid: :dead:

For one thing the dist looks rusty and in need of being cleaned, also check the air gap , looks like the rust there has reduced this to where there is none. Find out if the engine ever ran with the ignition that is in the car . It might be some sort of fix that some one has tried that dident work . Some history here will help . Other wise you just need to see if the stuff is hooked up properly . For one thing the tach must be connected to the ignition so it will fire . Others can tell you why , I just know that it is the case from my own experience .

Just a word of advise here. Even though you have full coverage on the car . Unless you have a agreed upon value policy , you are driving a old car, in the insurance companies eyes . This vary thing just happened with a fellow Z driver I know , and the ins co was going to total the 240 because of a broken tail light and a bent finisher . I am not kidding . They were generously going to write a check for $1200. for a nice car. After a lot of hassel and a couple of months of anguish he did end up with the car and $2500. Your car , at least the one pictured , is vary nice looking the paint looks rather new . are you sure that the $2100. is going to cover the costs of repair ? That kind of money dosent go vary far when the cost of repaint and the labor of bondo free meatel work is all added up . Good luck . Gary

Ray a big wilcome to the club . I am , in a way, sorry that you now have the virus that there is no cure for. It sounds like you have found a great car and appriciate what you have . I have been infected since '70 , however because of priorities , children , the Z car was not in the mix of my life untill 2000 . Now being owned by a '73 240 the suffering is gone when ,weather permitting I take her out for a breath of fresh air . I would tell you to enjoy the ride , but you are already doing so . Again welcome , Gary Will you are right about Bill his sharpness is only due to the rusty edges on his Z .

Welcome to the club . There are some serious pitfalls in a car like you describe. Mostly rust , it is the number one factor to be concerned with . together with the running condition and finely the completeness of the car. Unless you are an accomplished welder or have deep pockets the rust factor will kill you with the cost of repair. It is easy , vary easy to get into the thousands of dollars repairing the floors and rocker pannels and doglegs . On the early cars the parts are becomming more and more difficult to find and at the same time the prices are ski-rocketing . Engines and trans are still fairly easy to come by , because the availability of the later cars up to '83 that can be used . Be sure to do as will has said and include your location in your profile , if you live in my area , I would be happy to have a look . The best of luck with your intended project , and do make use of the archives as will said they are loaded with good info. Gary :rambo:

Welcome to the club. take a look at the fuseable link . It's the white/red wire connected to the starter. At least it is a beginning . Good luck . Gary

I think the early heat shield will work . The fuel pump is located on the driver's side and just infront of the rear axel . Gary

How bad is the rust ? If it is just surface rust , this is no big deal . If the floor has a couple of holes only this can be repaired . But if it is really rusted out then replace it . As was posted above Zedd findings is the best . I used his floor in my Z and I am vary happy with the outcome. Gary

Don't do what ifs. Paint the car and post the pictures. What you like , is what you should do . Not someone elses idea .

From what I have heard , is this Acetone thing comes up every few years when the fuel is either scarce or the prices rise. The small amount of the stuff added to the tank will not harm anything . It is so diluted . One OZ per 10 gals. Could it be that when testing was done , the driver drove a little slower and maybe less head wind or a tail wind. Slower acceleration from stopps will also change the out come . Tuff to do the testing and eliminate all the variables. I say , give it a try and see for your self. Shouldent hurt anything either way . Gary

Good luck on your project Arne . Good for you finding a early Z . Gary

I thought the propeller that you have on top did it for you . Tommy . Sorry I couldent resist .

I thought the propeller that you have on top did it for you . Tommy .

Good going looks like you found a fine Z . You should be stoked . I am not a fan of the sun or moon roof either but that is just me . You like it and that is what is important . You have found a real diamond . As for the missing , before diveing into rebuildint things and replaceing stuff . Check the fuel filters and if in doubt change them . There should be a electric as well as a mechanical fuel pumps and there is a inline filter before the electric one . There may be screen filters in the inlets of the float bowls where the line connects also . From the pictures , it looks like there is some kind of different dist installed , you said it has points ? This could be a sorce of the miss as well . She looks like a beauty . I had to wait 31 years for mine . Gary

Contact phred He builds Z engines for raceing applications , and I think he specializes is head work . He is local , Gresham Or .

The engine is to tilt to the passanger side , so the longer one goes on the driver side . Gary :rambo:

There are some along Columbia Blvd and one in Sherwood . Any more it is just a hit and miss to find a Z of any year . There had been a good '75 some months back in Sherwood. What are you looking for ? PM me if you want. Gary

This is the latest. '' The Austrailian business wants to make it VARY clear that they are NOT in any way associated with Dashboard Restorations USA ,or the restorations they provide to the U S market '' For leagal reasons I cannot say more what has transpired . Needless to say this is a sad affair. Gary :disappoin

I know Jim Kirk personally , to the best of my knowledge the Washington people ahe NO LONGER PART OF THE COMPANY KNOWN AS Dashboard Restorations , witch is located in Queensland Au. The split was caused by customer service and quality from the Washingtom people . Jim Kirk , the owner in Au , made good on the problem dashes when he was informed of the problem by the customers . I have sent Jim Kirk a email asking what is going on , and I will pass on the information. I can vouch for the quality of the dashes coming from the Au Company . What I have seen have been first quality . As for the Washington people I don't know . I havent seen any . I have met Pete & Cheryl Flemming , the Washington Co but I havent seen them for long time . None of these people are my friends , we met and had dinner and I have emailed back and forth with Jim for a long time . Gary

One thing I remember you said that there was no seal between the master and the booster . There isn't supposed to be. I think you are correct about taking the car to the shop and having them bleed the brakes. From what you are asking and the comments made. It is appearient that you don't have the experience to do this with out help. As you stated this is a vary important part of the car . It must work no ifs ands or buts . GAry

Bill I am in need of two things , for now . the speedo cable cover and all I have the cable but would like to get the whole part so I am sure they are the same length. The secound part is the chrome , plastic , ends for the grab handel for the passanger side. Gary