beandip

If you suspect water in the dist , spray some WD-40 in the cap this will take care of it also down in the dist as well.

[ . In the process of loosening the distributor I loosened it quite a bit - so much in fact that it moved completely off where it started. I didnt understand that the adjustments are minute so I was pivoting it all over the place to see how far it moved. Now I can't get the car to start. It ran like normal after the cleaning and when the light was connected it was fine. Is it possable that when the bolt was loosened as stated above that you lifted the dist up and it either became detached from the drive ? Dident you pay attention which way the vacume advance was facing ? What made you think that the timing was not right when you dident have a timing light attached and working ??

Uh Huh , I agree.

Where are you ? You diden't include that in your profile. Phred does heads and is top notch if you are close I would take it to him and have it checked out . Gary by the way he is in Gresham Oregon.

I agree a 280zx for a first driver is a lot of car. Plus as was all ready stated ,the age , it will need tinkering and you must be prepaired to do some repairs just to keep it road worthy . Again simply because of it's age. For your daughter I think you would be better served with a , I hate to say it , Honda civic. Now for you , it could be a great car , but it sounds like a project . My 5cts Gary

If you are looking to a Z for an investment . Find a rust free '70 with a low vin number and low miles that is all origional and complete. Then don't drive it. A car that is as described will appricate more as time goes on just because of atrition . The later 240s will also but not as great as the first year of production. When these cars , like any other collectable car , are driven the value is deminished . The later cars are not as collectable epecially the 2+2 version . Personally , I drive my 240 and enjoy the experience , plus the pride of ownership . Ownership is mearly secoundary . I don't desire to have a collection even if I could afford it and have the storage area . Thats' my 5c Gary

How About Extaz Or Myxtaz , Flynlow

Dont Run The Engine !!! If You Run The Engine You May Punch A Hole In A Piston And Or Really Screw Up The Head And The Valve Seals And The Valve Train .

I just recently replaced the entire wireing in my '73 with a loom from a '72 . I don't think I would attempt to do a complete rewire from scratch , that is build my own . And the pre '74z are simple compaired to the rest of the Zs . I am not saying that it cannot be done but it would be one hell of a undertaking . See if you can find a used unmolested loom from a donr car . What year Z are you talking about ? Gary

jack b that is one first class battery hold down . Gary

What was described in this thread is the compresser pump for air conditioning . What are you refering to the air pump for the emissions ? If this is so , this air pump drew its clean air from the air cleaner for the SUs . there is a large fitting on the back of it , the air was pumped into a series of pipes that connected to the exhoust manifold . More than likely the air pump has been removed long ago. If you have a unplugged port on the intake manifold then you have a major vacuum leak , which will damage the valves . Describe this port as to it's location and size . This could be the opening for the PCV valve on the ballance tube above the intake manifold . Gary

Well it dosen't look good . It's difficult to tell from the picture . Hose it off and wire brush and scrape the loose rust away . See if there is any rust through spots , especially below the tray where the inner fender attaches to the frame rail . This is the critical area . The battery tray looks mostly gone in the picture. Use some baking soda and water to treat the battery acid in the area . If there is no rust through then you have dodged the bullet . The frame rail is the biggest worry here . Gary

Maby that will get him back ,

I have a set of #58s , came in a set of 3 screws I bought. I compaired them to a set of 54s and they are leaner needles . I bought the carbs from a area that is high altitude and most likely ran well there . I am down to sea level and need a richer needle I bought set of 27s from Nissan , but cant pick them up untill the weekend . So I am going to try the 54s then the 27s . I have a new set of SMs I will sell for $15.00 the pair , I installed them but never put the carbs on the engine , and pulled them . Gary Nissan sells the needles for $18.90 ea.

He's gone ! took a shi& and the hogs ate him.

Thats a good feeling . I remember when we finished the painting. From now on it is reassembly and all the parts will be clean going back, or should be .

I still have the puller to loan to members and also the plans and parts list on a pdf file if you wish to build your own. there is a member of this club that has them for sale . this puller makes the job easy and a couple of hour job at most . Plus it saves the old pin for reuse . Gary :rambo:

I really like them , have always liked the slotted mags . I think I would like to see as set of the 17's mounted . The 15s for sure. At least you could keep the vintage look and have performance tires with either .

I used rattle can paint. Dupli-Color ENGINE ENAMEL it says ceramic ? I don't think so but it does provide a nece finish. I says that it will withstand 500 degrees. # DE 1631 Chrysler Blue . duplicolor.com I bought the can at the local parts store . This is all I know about the stuff . So far it looks good on the block and air cleaner . Gary

I am thinking the same thing , I cant remember a bolt like this on a transverslink. It must be the lock bolt on the spindle pin. Soak it with Kroil or P B Blaster well and let it soak over night if you can , soak it again and loosen the nut a couple of turns and tap the nut with a soft hammer and see if you can dislodge it. This is a tapered pin with a flat side that is there to keep the spindle pin from turnig. Try again after a hour or so that it has been soaking with Kroil . WD-40 is a poor subsitute but it's better than nothing. Gary

One thing you can place the stands on a square of plywood . Thanks I will look into this , Thanks . Gary

Before you jump in and do some buying , contact Zedd Findings datsunparts.com he sells to motorsports I have been told . Charley Osborne has the best replacement parts for his stuff. His floors are shown in Sports Z magazine and Motorsport catalog. He often has hard to find parts . Have you pulled the carpet on the passanger side and looked at the floor pan, both on top and under the car ? He has floor pans also. Gary

NO NO NO not bondo not here. If there is rust through have it taken care of properly and have it welded. As escanlon says when it is opened up have a good hard look . remove the inside trim pannel , there are round holes and with a flash light you can see inside to some degree. This channel that terminats here , that runs under the door is the rocker. It starts just infront of the door at the bottom of the front fender. Some times the cowl drain dumps debris on the end of the rocker . This causes a rust through, it and the lower part of the front fender. If there is a rust hole in the end of the rocker, it drains all the way back to the dogleg. So check out this whole area for rust damage. The front area is also impacted by the battery acid problem that attacks the inner fender and frame under the battery and firewall. this whole area is the main problem area on these cars. Gary

So far I have escaped !

Rule how does this stuff go down ? Does it come in a roll or what ? I like the look but what about jack stands and jacks on it ? Will it rebound after being compressed under a jack stand ? The look is supurb no doubt. Gary