beandip

If when you tap on the float bowl and the carb then floods , sounds to me that the needle valve is at fault. Also it seems the fuel level is a bit high in the bowls. Could there be a fleck of crud in the float valves causing them to stick open , or just plane stick in one position ? Do the floats move up and down freely inside the chambers when you turn the carb upside down ? From what you are describing here this sounds like the problem .

Kindal , Have you disassembled the butterfly to throttle shaft of the carbs ? If the linkage adjustment isnt the problem , check the butterfly to see that they close and seal when the throttle is closed . As to the heating , be watchful of this when you first start the engine . You can have a ''air lock '' when the engine if first filled with coolent. The thermostat is closed sealing the passage . The temp sensor can be dry in a air pocket the same with the thermostat , so It will open too slowly . Overheating can happen . Now that you have started the engine and allowed it to cool , recheck the coolent level . Most likely you will find the level is vary low . Conducted heat will open the thermostat allowing the air to pass , then the next time you start the engine the water pump can pass the coolent . That is if the thermostat is in good working order . By the way , to adjust the butterflys and or check to see if they are sealing. Look down the barrel with the throttle closed , holding the carb with a light in the background and see if there is any light showing around the butterfly disk . If there is , this is the cause of the high idle . Loosen he screws that hold he disk to the shaft , just so the disk can move with some resistance. Now forceably close the throttle . Do this a few times then check against the light again . This should allow the disk to shift and mate to the barrel and seal . Then tighten one screw and remove the other one and apply LOCK-TIGHT to the screw and replace it , do the same thing with the other one. You do not want these coming loose . All the best , Gary:rambo:

Kmack , It's been a while. I have simular wheels on my 240 only the fins are closer together on my wheel . These are vary repairable and will look cool when polished . This is a good price . These would be far easier to clean than mine . I have 40 fins and they are so close together that they are difficult to clean . If I needed a set I would jump on these . Keep on keeping on. Gary

Harbor Fright has the dollies for $39.00 for two , 1000 lb capacity . I received a set of 4 over 2 years back and used them everyday during my rebuild. Now the winter has set in I am using them again. They are as handy as a floorjack , I highly recommend having a set.

WELL IT STARTED THAT WAY ON PAGE #1 AFTER POST #12 YOU GUYS STARTED AN ARGUEMENT AND HI-JACKED THE THREAD . YOU DON'T EVEN REALISE IT WHEN YOU DO IT . THIS IS WHAT IS SCREWING UP THE WHOLE WEB SITE . JUST AS SOON AS YOU GET PERSONAL YOU ARE OFF LINE. go back and reread the thread , you should see what I mean. Spike asked a question and it dident even get past the first page before you guys got off topic. I am refering to those mentioned in my post . Gary :mad:

Spike , welcome to the web site. Please disreguard jmort , bpilati , and zgritar, while they puff up and try to impress one another and hi-jack this thread . Are you planning to drive the 240 in the snow and Ice ? These cars have little clearence and not much room for chained tires . As was already stated these engines can be built to attain amazing HP concidering they are such little engines . However when built to achieve this power , there driveability suffers greatly . For a daily driver I wouldent recomend it . The cost per HP is a definate factor also . If HP in one of these cars is your goal and keeping the cost down . Look to a V-8 hi-bred . A small block chevy is almost the same weight as the inline engine and rests farther back in the engine bay . This makes the car almost a mid engine G T . You know GM iron there is a hell of a lot more available HP there than in the little 6 . A stock 280 is already getting about 1 HP per Cu inch , so there is not that much to improve on in compairison to the small block . Hp costs money , how fast do you want to spend ! Parts for the early Zs are getting spendy in the past 5 years . With headlingt switches going for $200 a pop and rear tail lights at $600.00 it all depends on how deep your pockets are, and what you intend. All the best to you . Gary And you other guys that I first mentioned on this post , dont bother flaming me because I don't care and hardly come to the site any longer because or the likes of you .

HELLO ! IT IS NOT THE PINS IT'S THE BUSHINGS .

Well it looks like ROMPER ROOM SCHOOL is back in session !!!!!!!1111 :disappoin

Tyler , You dident include where you are that you are having trouble with boiling fuel . You most likely have 54 needles . I am running them as well in my ZX280 engine , milled head , headers and 2 1/2'' plumbing and cam . My engine runs strong and I have no rich problem . This is in my '73 240 Z . I suggest that you readjust the mixture . If you are having backfireing through the carbs , this could also be caused by a lean condition , however you said you are running rich. If the engine is running so rich that it is backfireing out the exhost do recheck the chokes . Some times the nozzles will stick down when the choke is returned to off positon and this will cause a vary rich mixture . Gary

Saint , The reason to do the mod is for the zdrivers that actually drive there car. If dust or dirt , heaven forbid , is washed into the cowl and drains down into the area below the drain . In all likely hood it will stay there and hold moisture for quite a while . This is the reason you see the lower part of the front fender rusted out + it is also the starting point of the rocker and if there is any rust through the water flows along under the door sill , rocker, and ends up in the dogleg . It is such a simple thing to take care of , and it will help prevent this for in the future. For a G Queen or a Show car this is not an issue.

It's powerful !

Send escanlon a PM he put one on his Z

Your Z has the wireing back by the tank already . provided by Nissan when the car was built. Just look on the wireing that runs from the sending unit on the gas tank back to the body . You will find the wires a green and a black taped up with blue tape . Keeping the pump cool will be best and you are right it is better to push than pull with these pumps . bpilati when you are running a ZX engine and head there is no prevesion for mechanical pump on the fuel injected engine.

JUST FOR INFORMATION , THE WHITE FITTING PICTURED IS A SIMPLE 1'' 45 DEGREE ELBOW PVC PIPE FITTING AND IT FITS INSIDE THE FACTORY TUBEING EXITING THE BODY . THANKS ES I did this mod to my 240 also .

What are you doing to the engine? Are you just doing a valve job? If this is all , just scrape off the top of the block . Keep stuff from falling down the water jackets and oil passages this is vary importent. A putty knife will work on the block. I hope you wedged the timing chain , other wise the front of the engine must come off to reload the tensioner. use some compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to clear any chunks out of the cylinders.

DISCOUNT ! DISCOUNT ! not enough I would rather be younger . Coins in a cup My arse I am taking a bucket.

Over the years I have read of guys running everything from water to brake fluid in the dampners. The builders of the carbs say 20w . Personally I have tried ATF ( 5w) Misteray oil (5w) as it turns out and a mixture of light oils of different weights. For me living in the north west I have found that what the makers of the carbs are correct 20w works the best . I had a stumgle off ldle that I thought was ignition . Drove me nuts . After a long time trying all sorts of stuff , I finally used the 20w . The stumble dissapeard . It may not work for all but try 20w , I found the fork oil at the cycle shop . for what its worth . Gary my 5c

SEE ANOTHER CRACK , I AM BEING STABBED IN THE BACK JUST LIKE JESSEY JAMES , he was shot , but any way . You get the picture . :devious:

NOW THIS IS HOW I AM GOING TO BE TREATED ! AS OUR FRIENDS DOWN UNDER SAY STUFFIT. The crack was made by another about a SENIOR CITIZEN . It looks like I am being ganged up on here . Just remember what comes around goes around or something like that !

Just becuse a hose is rated for gasoline , it may not take the heat that is in a engine compartment. What will work safely on a cycle may me a disaster under the hood. Fuel rated or not , plastic is plastic and it melts at a much lower temp than rubber line. my 5c Gary

The return line will flush away over heated fuel that is in the line caused by the heat of the header or maifold. The fuel line that runs form the float to he bottom of the carb is close to the exhost manifold or header , and there is a great amount of heat I would think twice about using plastic in this location. Also this hose is critical in the workings of the nozzle in it's travel up and down. This is why it is not recommended to use parts store hose there because it is too stiff . When this small fuel line becomes stiff and or brittle it can cause the nozzle to bind . When this happens the choke is sticking when shut off and your fuel mixture goes to hell and so does the mileage. Nissan and Ztherapy have the small rubber fuel line . Do not fall for the temptation and use vacuum line for this . A fire is likely if the hose fails and sends fuel on the hot manifold. There is gasoline rated fuel line at the hobby shops . Some of he large model air plaine engines run on gasoline. Do not use line made for other types of fuel , ask specificly for gasoline rated. one more thing the fuel rail has a metering hole at the end of its return line where it connects to the rubber line. This is there to help maintain fuel pressure. Gary

Try and ground the engine to the firewall . Just run a wire from one of the rear valve cover bolts and to one of the screws on the firewall. I would also charge the battery if it is only showing 8V . Gary

Lets just make it this Sat evening the 12th lets say 7:00 . Lets pick a pizza place some where in the middle . Usually they have room set up for a group . This way any age , even me the SINIOR CITIZEN , can come . Bryan do you know of such a place by the airport or in that general direction? Enrique how about in Vancouver or on Jansen Beach ? Or if someone has another Idea. I think we should just pick a date and do it. Otherwise it won't happen at all . Enrique and I did this about 3 years ago , lets do it again . that is my 5c. Gary

Sure there are several of us In the area , Maybe we can set up something. I am open. I live in the Beaverton area . Gary

do not use sylicone, it likely will squish out on the inside and if it comes off can likely plug a oil gallery . Permatex works , I use nothin on a cork gasket and have no problems . Gary