beandip

They make a deal that fits right over the old frame rail and helps to stiffen the whole thing up. What's your thoughts on these and going this route. -Gregg- If you cover the rust up it will continue to attack the frame , this would just be a band-ade fix at best . I wouldent cut any thing out untill you have the new parts in hand . Then you will know how much you can cut away and how all the new parts will fit . When you buy floor pans from Zedd F they come with the center stiffner that runs under the floor from the forward seat support to the beginning of the firewall . The pan he sells extends back to where the floor turns upward in back of the seat . The new floors extend upward on each side about 2'' or so . I have pictures of mine when I cut the old floor out and after I fitted the new one , then after the welder was finished . Send me a PM if you are interested . I dident need to do the rails on my 240 just the passenger pan and some repair by the battery area . If you plan on using POR , do a search first , this has been gone over many times and then if you are not clear on the proper preperation , I would be happy to help . Gary

Blackjack , I recently installed a '82ZX engine in my 240 running Sus. If you are hearing a hissing upon aplying the brakes , I think you have a vacuum problem with the booster. sounds like it has had it. I have the same plumbing , 3 into 2 into 1 headers and a 2 1/2'' turbo , dyanomax , system. The resonence you hear about , is the drowning sound at about 2K RPM . by adding a glass pac mid way from the collecter of the header and the first bend will eliminate it. If you are hearing a back rap , it's like a controlled back fire . This could be caused by a rich mixture . You dident state what type of induction you are running . SUs , Webbers , Injection , What ?? Use a race glass pac for controlling the resonence , this because the '' cherry bomb '' type that have little luvers in the pipe cause a great amount of restriction . As to the sound of the tranny , just be sure you have the correct amount of oil in it . It could be wear causing the sound , no way of knowing not being able to hear it . Gary

Good to have you aboard Dewayne , we will try and not hold it against you for the 350 Gs coupe . Hope you can find a good 240 , you will love it . They are a completely different breed of cat . Gary '73 Z driver .

I bet this will be a welcome change . Great hunting in NM , if you are in to that . It's not San Deago but closer . Gary

Ian , hang in there , this is not like a TV show that has a ending in one hour. I have wanted a 240 since the first year they were built. I bought mine , a '73 Feb. 2001 since the kids are all on there own and I have finished , or nearly so , on the remodeling of our house . I drove my Z in primer with dents and ugly for 2 yrs while I did brakes and suspention. It ran good and I enjoyed the hell out of the car. I started to do the refresh on the car 3 years ago . I was 63 then . I reduced the car to a rolling shell and went form there with the help of my good friend escanlon , who showed me how to do the body work and sand and prep for paint. She no longer looks like a parts car and with the ZX engine with mods , she runs strong and is a real kick to drive . She isn't perfect , I know whare the her worts are but not many others see them . She is a great looking driver that I built for me . Just do your car one step at a time . Above all enjoy the car before you make it undriveable . This way when things are not going as you would like or you get discouraged . You can remember back and you will be back on track . The main thing is to keep your eye on the priZe . Plus enjoy the ride. Gary

I had a pro install a new windshield and he used my gasket. I had a set for the whole car from progressive . Do NOT let the installer cut the new gasket and glue in the windshield . these winshields must be roped in to do it correctly . The installers wanted $120. using my gasket to install my windshield and no garentee if they cracked the glass. $220. for a all new install using my gasket . This is one thing I dident want to attempt my self . Gary

I had a pro install a new windshield and he used my gasket. I had a set for the whole car from progressive . Do NOT let the installer cut the new gasket and glue in the windshield . these winshields must be roped in to do it correctly . The installers wanted $120. using my gasket to install my windshield and no garentee if they cracked the glass. $220. for a all new install using my gasket . Gary

This Dead Horse Is About A Month Dead . Let It Rot In Pease !

Arne , we will see , I ordered a set of euro springs and they are being made now and will be shipped after the first of the year. They are stage II springs that have been copied from a new set , completely down to the code color markings from Nissan. They will eventually be offered from Courtesy Nissan . They come in three different rates , one for the left front one for the right front and both rear are the same . Do a search on Carl Beck's post on this around the first of Dec. these springs are reported to lower the car about 1'' but the spring rate is not as severe as the competition springs that are offered by Motorsport and other suppliers , so the ride dosent suffer . The springs are a limited run so it is a first come first serve . Gary

Duffman , I have been running a ZX ignition in my '73 since 2001 with the 240 tach and no problems .

The late '73 240 had the brackets for the rear sway bar . The bar that will fit is from a EARLY '74 260 . This bar has two bends in it that the others dont . These are needed to clear the diff. The end links are the same as all the rest of the sway bars . It's just the bar it's self that is different. I don't remember the cut off date on the '74 , when they went to the bar the 280 has. Gary

Marty , if this a K&N for a stock '70- 72 air cleaner the K & N # E-2910 mine came to about $50.00 . I doubt vary much that the difference can be felt on street use , but they do filter finer particles and flow more air . Plus being able to clean it , it is the last one you will have to buy . I have on on my Truck and have for 8 years . The truck one cost about the same . Gary

I have used the copper used in this article also. It is not recommended to use copper for fuel line or for brake lines . But in this case it is the 1/4'' line. These will fail due to vibration , and bursting due pressure as well for brake line. In this use connected on each by rubber , and being 1/2'' in size , so vibration is not a issue . Copper is not effected by Gasoline . This is about the only place I would use copper . Gary

I just measured my booster on my '73 at 8 1/2 '' form the out side edge of the flange . Hope this helps . Now , this Z is an automatic. The space between two master cylinders may not allow this size so do measure first . Gary

toya , I agree completely , so try and not do it . You always seem to have a nasty comment to add , and then you wont let it go .

The small hose you first mentioned is a vent hose , did you try and tighten the hose clamp ? Try this before droping the tank. I would first use the fuel down to a bout a 1/4 tank or less if you decide to remove the vent line from the tank. These hoses MUST be rated for GAS if you pull the tank to replace them . I would be supprised to see the tank is leaking , most likely it is just the hose . Now having said that . If the PO changed the hoses , which these are not factory, and he used heater hose , then the hose most likely is rotten and must be replaced . There are three vent hoses on the tank but this one is the lowest one . The filler hose has a clamp at the bottom where it conects to the tank check there to see if it isnt just leaking past the clamp and tighten it a little . there is a small triangle flashing held in place with three screws , just to the rear of the passenger side rear tire . Remove this and you will see the clamp I am talking of . Good luck with this. Gary NAPPA should have the hose you need , for the one shown in the pictures .

most likely the plugs were changed because they were fouled by such a rich mixture caused by the cold start being full on . my 2c , but I don't work on injection just have two vehc. that do . You dident say is the car running correctly now ?

Most likely the reason of the lock up is water in the cylinder . The water wont compress . You can easily blow a hole out the side of the block trying to run an engine is this condition. As for the crank , now way of knowing if it is good untill you have it miked . The longer you wait the more damage will be done by the water in the oil .

Dave from what I have read on this thread from the beginning , you called the wrong guy , If any comment was unnecessary it was form montoya's . And yes Jackhammer's observation was also of unimportance . Sometimes not saying anything if far better than going down this road . Gary

Ztherapy will recommend SM needles. They will never pass emissions . Install a set of 54 needles and the engine will run great . The only criticle setting on the float is to not make the fuel level too high . There are only nozzles available for the '70Z , at least from Nisson. The nozzle is a 5 min job to change , the needle another 5min for each carb . At idle when I shut the engine down and remove the float chamber cover , I have about 1/2 inch of gas in the bowl . I have never had a problem with the engine running lean. Are these carbs 3 screw or 4 screw units ? 3 screw SUs , and a matching intake have water flowing through the carb . You must first drain the coolent level down past the level of the carb. That is if you remove the carb to do this . I have a '82ZX in my 240Z with SUs and I am running these needles . All the best , Gary

in the engine compartment , on the firewall just left of the master cylinder there should be a series of numbers and letters stamped into the firewall. Tell us what they are . This is the vin number .:rambo: add your location to the profile. is this a right or left hand drive?

Arne, here is another sorce Idaho Z Car (208-466-0004) They have lots of Z and I think he can come up with what your looking for . Gary

I found beck arney modules on line for $65.00 . My local bone yard gave me the one I have for a spair. There around , however just like the RX-7 fuel pump . Just as soon as the word gets out they soon dissapear. Gary

just remember the oil gage is just that a gage If you really are concerned buy a cheep mchanical gage and connect it to the same port the present sender is mounted . This will tell you exactly what is going on. My gage on my Z with ZX engine and a turbo pump , after warm up hardly shows any pressure at idle and mid area while driving. The gage shows 25 psi at idle and 50 ,which is the relief setting , at 2 K . And I agree with the 10w30 for all season , at least here on the LEFT coast. Gary

I am running a 82ZX with cam , 9 +to 1 compression . 54 needles in the SUs and she runs strong . I am close to sea level . I have headers and 2 1/2 plumbing with a dynomax muffler . I am not having any mixture problems . I also have a '79zx ignition set at 10 degrees BTDC . Set the timing , then check the carb ballance and the mixture as well , even though you just did it. Make sure the nozzles are not sticking down a little , this will cause a rich mixture if they are . This should take care of the dieseling , if not add some premium gas and see if this helps. Has the engine been run rich for a while ? It could be carbon deposites causing the run-on. If you run a tank of Hi-test fuel through this may clear it out . If the SUs came off a L-24 with a automatic trans origionally , it could have N-58 needles . Also if they were set for high altitude. The 58s are leaner . I have 58s ,54s, 27s witch are richer stock needles for the '70 , and a set of SMs witch are vary rich especially for street use . So far the 54s have been the best for me . Both power and the mileage seems good as well. I cannot account for the mileage untill I recalabrate the speedo due to a gear change in the diff. The N-27 ,and 54s are still available from Nissan . All these needles use the same nozzle. Keep us informed on how this pans out. Gary , one more thing run some 20w or 30w oil in the carbs , this makes a big difference in throttle responce .