beandip

must be nece !

Just jack up the rear and put the car on a good set of stands. crawl under and look for the stains of fuel that has leaked and follow where it is or was coming from . If you are not having any trouble with rust in the fuel or the tank is not leaking at the seams or from damage from hitting something . There is no reason to take the tank to any shop . Most likely your problem is from a leaking vent line or the main fill hose . If you remove the right rear wheel , to the rear of the wheel well there is a small pannel that is held on with three sheet metal screws . Remove the pannel and you will be looking at the bottom end of the main filler hose . This large hose gets brittle and can crack . If you remove the fuel tank . Take care not to stress this large hose as it is costly to replace . If you do replace any of the vent hoses , DO NOT USE HEATER HOSE OR VACUUM HOSE for this . Only gasoline rated hose will due . The two large vent hoses are 5/8'' and available at Nappa or Nissan and where the have boat supplies. Nappa I found is the best place other than Nissan. Gary

Just shoot it with PB Blaster and scrape carefully with a putty knife to get the gasket remains off . As to the header , I just wire brushed it well and wiped it down with grease/wax remover and sprayed it with hi-temp header paint. So far it seems good , 1200 miles .

Send a PM to v8-240 he is in the process of this right now.

My car was factory orange and I planned to repaint in the same color as I really like it . I do favor a dark blue and found one that was almost black and deeply metallic . '05 toyota color. I decided that for two reasons not to go with the dark color . one is visibality and the secound is the dark colors show every wart and blemish . My car even after lots of prep work , I dident feel it was a canadate for the darker color. I did a surch on PPGs web site and found the favoraites and found blue number 1 in the US , Yellow in Aus. Yellow was way down the list here in the US and I found that I really Liked the Yellow of the '05 Cobra Mustang , Screaming Yellow . Not being a person who likes to blend in , I now drive a Screaming Yeallow 240 . I agree that any color looks great on a great looking car , like our Zs. Gary

My 3.70s gives me about 3K at 65MPH . Over a vary long drive say a 1000 miles or so , it could get to be a little much . If so I am going to install a race grade glass pack near the trans to kill what resonence that there is . This will help quiet things down even further . I did install sound deadining through the interior before reassembly so the cars is relitively quiet now. Which helps on a long drive. Incidently the regular glass pack mufflers use a luver type of perferation inside the pipe which blocks air flow . the race type uses plain holes and no decrease of flow .

Katz as was stated is a member here and not a supplier , however he will looke for things for you . I had been looking for a set of hatch hinge seals for a long time and he was looking for me over there. I ended up finding what I needed here after all. I personally know a guy that has over 200Zs of various years under cover . He is a great source for parts , although they are not new . His company is doing restorations now and he is simi retired and selling parts . As to the weather gasket set. I used progresive brand and am vary pleased with them . Motorsport carries them , as do several other sellers . Gary

Arne the ratio ,3.54s that you are running will work great with the trans . Many Z drivers make this change for more low end power . The diffefence between the 3.36 is not that great but I think you will like it . Gary

if you want to keep the flow use a 2 1/2'' race muffler for the middle muffler. These are a celindrical muffler that is about 20'' long . The carry bomb type muffler uses a luver type of perferation to puncture the center pipe. this closes some of the inside diameter and restricts flow .

well disconnect the cable at the speedo and tape the end of the cable with some masking tape . Roll the car and see if it turns . If it does then the speedo is shot . replace it. If it dosent turn , then check the cable to see if it is broken . If ok check the gear by removing the fitting on the trans .

Katz lives in japan and is a member . Maby he could be of help. send him a PM

I can find 14'' tires but if you are looking for a tire that is a performance tire , the best and only one that comes close is a Yokohama AVSES100 in 205 /60 14 . These are supposed to be a good compond and are a sticky tire. At prestent I am running regular passanger tires and they brake loose at the drop of a hat. I cannot trust them for stopping even on dry pavement . They just don't stick , must be the compond and or the lack of weight with the Z. I dont know , but they only have about 3K on them at the most. Gary I have had two close calls with my present tires and both times the freeway was totally dry , fortuneatly I had plenty of stopping room. Even then I came close.

I could care less which connecters you use . I trust your judgement . The head light loom is first rate . By the way , just connecting the new loom had a great effect on the amount of light for the dash and tail lights already . Sign me up . Gary

You might be supprised. I bought a set of floor pans for my 240 and they are first rate in both quality and fit. They do come with the support that runs from under the seat to the bottom of the firewall . The cost for the pair $293.68 including shipping to Portland Oregon . THIS INCLUDED THE RUBBER PLUGS TO FILL THE DRAIN HOLES.

I would check with the paint supplier that you buy the top coat from as to which is compatable , just to be sure . You don't want to find out after the car is painted and the paint starts pealing or checking. If you are just covering bare metal and will be sanding it all off then no worries . My .02c

the same goes when you have any work done at a shop. Head or block , if the crank is pulled and polished check for stuff in the oil passages and use a .22 cal cleaning rod with patches to clean all oil passages even if the block and or head was hot tanked . This is no time to get in a hurry . I worked for a Co. some years back that had a ''rebuilt'' engine installed in one of there trucks . I checked the oil at 400 miles and it looked was tar black . I dont think they even tanked the block at all . You just cant be too careful . :disappoin

I am using the stock '79ZX coil with the same ignition and have no complaints at all. It wont fit in a 240 bracket , it is larger in dia. Gary

I bought a sheet of material from a local hobby shop that is chrome with a heat sencitive back . escanlon has a process he used to adhear it to the chrome trim on my doglegg and door trim . I looke like close to new and was done last summer . I don't necessarly recommend it for a concors restoration but it is close. Now no coating was applied over the product . The silver leaf that was shown above has great promise for applications that have compond curves . Thanks kenz240z , for the thread. Gary NOTE MORE INFO I remember the name of the stuff . mono/coat it is used on model air planes . If I remember right it was about $15.00 for a sheet about 15'' X 24" maby larger . Long enough to cover the strip on a door pannel .

ohioZ just left click on my name and it will bring up my profile , there there should be a drop down that has a few options , one of which is send a private message . this way your message won't go out over the web. Gary

I did as well and offered to buy his old stock. I think escanlon has the drawings that Dave posted before he started to make the loom. Gary

Ez , are you installing a R-200 into a 240 ? If so , you do know , I hope , that you need the r-200 M bar + the bar is mounted in reverse to the 240 bar. this mounts the diff. pumkin to the rear just far enough so the drive shaft and all connects with out problem . the straps should not be a problem either , all should line right up. Gary

The only bad thing of using the POR , or any other coating , then welding in the new rocker you will be burning off the POR and the new rocker will not be coated. I have a method of blowing in the por into the void after the rocker is welded in . Scanlon showed me this and I used it in every void in my Z to seal off the metal . This burning of the protectent coating is the reason I used stainless bolts to mount my battery support insted of welding it in . Thats another story . Gary

Why were you not able to save the old needles ?? Are these Round top SUs ? If so , is there three screws or four holding down the dome ? What is the casting numbers on the intake ? I am asking these questions because , if you have a setup with 3 screw carbs and you remove them with out draining some coolent down to below the level of the carbs . You will be dumping coolent into your cylinders . When you were doing what ever to the carbs , I hope you dident mix up the parts especially important with 3 screw units but important in any event . These carbs were fitted and matched at the factory . As Ed stated to properly tune the carbs the rest of the engine's adjustments must be correct . Timing , and valve adjustment. I personally am running a 280ZX engine in my 240Z with round top SUs . I live at an altitude of aprox 300' . So far I have found the F-54 needles to be correct . I havent had the opertunity to do a run on a dyno as yet , but all indications seem to point to this setup . If the old needles were touching or rubbing the nozzle then they should be replaced . 3 screw units only align the needle from the movement of the dome that sits on the cone shaped projections on the body and these projections are what is set at the factory on each individule unit . This is why it is important not to mix up the parts from one carb to another. The four screw carbs have an adjustment for the nozzle under the carb in the holder. The performance of either type of carb is the same so either will provide the same HP if set correctly . From what the engine builders I have consulted with , race guys , the SUs will make greater low end power on a 280 engine . Emissions may be a problem though. Hope this helps . Gary By the way if you live in a high altitude area F58 are leaner.