beandip

send a PM to escanlon He will know

YOU ARE KIDDING !! RIGHT ??

Thanks for the infomation , gives me something to research. Gary

YOUR ENGLISH IS FAR BETTER THAN MY GERMAN WOULD BE IF I TRIED . Gary

Cethern , Welcome to the club . I think you will find the members to be helpful. By all means have a look at the search feature , you may find the articles in the tech section helpful also . Gary

Question , does the engine just quit like you turned off the ignition ? Or does it stumble some like it is running out of fuel ? Gary

I am just finishing on my redo , not restore, I have a few interior things to address. You have a neighbor escanlon , he is in e Vancouver . We will have to meet some time . E. is off I-5 and 99st. I am in Beaverton Or. I drive a '73 240/280 . Good to have you aboard , the more the merrier . Gary

You better go buy a lotto ticket , because it sounds like you hit the mother load. I am happy for you. Well we are here to be of any help . Welcome to the club , good to have you aboard . Are you in the USA ? Gary P. S. we are neighbors ! Almost

it's the tire size , mine is the same way. Some have used a smaller spair .

the brand I have is 5 STAR . Look at a parts store or where they sell automotive paint supplies.

Put some gas in a thinner can and a length of fuel line from it to the pump. This should get you running . most likely the tank is the problem with crud or rust blocking the pick up , filter , and or the fuel line.

What Will said is the optimum. However if if you have a garage that is heated in winter , or attached to your house . That would be fine . Put the engine on a engine stand , to get it up off the floor. Remove the spark plugs and pour in about two tablespoons full of oil in each cylinder . turn the engine over with a wrench on crankshaft a few times . then install the spark plugs. Remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valve train , and but the cover back on . Take some oil soaked rags and stuff them in the intake and exhaust ports and seal the dip stick opening , if the Dist is removed seal that hole with a oily rag. I just covered my engine with a tarp tightly and rolled the engine out of the way. Short of doing what Will has said, I think this is about as good as any. Worked for me.

Depends on the year of Z . escanlon can advise if you need information on the wiring.

My spindle pin puller would have made this a easy job with out any hammering. The mistake most make is to over tighten the lock pin . They are only there to keep the spindle pin to rotating while you tighten the end nuts. When re-tightening the lock pin , take it down until the lock washer is collapsed and no more . The puller is out on loan at present , but I have it to loan if any member needs it. Gary

enigma, if the little roller bearings and the shaft of the ujoint didnt show any ware , you did all that is needed . What makes them fail is the lack of lube. What you did was how they have been serviced for many years . even new ujoints need to be lubed . When they are assembled at the factory , they only put a little grease in each cup to hold the pin bearings in place . Other wise they are dry .

I bought a engine 2 years before I installed it , I was redoing my Z and pulled the engine and trans. and bought the engine at about the same time . Is this what you mean . I also bought a set of euro stage 1 springs a couple of months back . I plan on installing them this fall . Gary

I agree with Arne. I would use grease and wax remover instead of simple green. The part to be painted should be wiped down with the remover then gone over with wet/dry 400 , then wipe them down again with the wax/grease remover then paint. If you don't degrease before sanding you may grind in the grease into the paint . Then it is much harder to clean . Grease and wax remover is available at the automotive paint store.

I agree , I replaced all my u-joints with the best I could buy and they came with a Zerk fitting that screws into the u-joint , then you remove it and put in a plug. In about 10K re lube them. If you do use the Nissan parts by all means pack them with grease. Back in the day '50s this is all that was available and you had to disassemble them and lube them about every 15 to 20K . Too much trouble . I went with the aftermarket u-joints . about $25.00 a copy . But you will never need to replace them again. When you lube them after assembly, be careful to not blow the seals . Watch the little rubber seal and stop pumping in the grease when you see it swell . If you push In more grease the seal can pop out of it's seat . Then it will fling the grease out when it spins.

Has any one asked if these are 4 screws or 3 ? The needles are easy to straighten by the way. Why I asked about which SUs you have is the 4 screw have a adjustable nozzle holder, the 3 screw have alignment plastic pins on the top of the carb base to align the dome and all that it holds. If the needle shows wear at all, look VARY closely at the nozzle because it could likely be worn also. Nissan may still have 27s I bought a set recently here in the US . They were available for the '70 240 Z . Nozzles on the other hand are no longer available as far as I know , at least in the U.S. If you need a nozzle contact me by PM . This might be part of your problem , however I think much of the flat running at low Rs is due to a radical cam and low engine vacuum at the low end . This is why , I think , she comes alive in the upper end . this was a concern of mine because of my cam. This is why I mentioned what I have in my car and how it runs with SUs . SUs will supply 280s to 6K or so , if that is what you are looking for . Up in that range you might be better suited with triples. Gary

The spring is a sensitive part as it controls the rate of rise of the piston so handle with care . the needle needs to be set flush to the bottom of the piston. I found 20wt oil at the local cycle shop . Ask for fork oil , it is used for the front forks on Motor Cycles .

Now I am looking to tap into those wires that are already running to the rear of the car. I can seem to figure out where the wires run. It goes to the back of the car with the fuel pump sending unit wiring. Anyone know where those wires run from under the dash. Lastly, where can I get a fuel pressure switch for the fuel pump? Would Kragen have it? Thanks. If I understand you correctly , you are looking for the power lead from the fuse box that connects to the Green wire from the pump . Find a wire that has a in line fuse that comes from the power side of the fuse box . It should be to the right of radio or in back of it on the passenger side, where all the wires run out near the heater and glove box. Pressure switch, I just bought a brass tee fitting and screwed it into where the oil pressure sender in the block is . I reinstalled the sending unit into one end and bought a pressure switch at the local parts store that has the same size male threads and connected in to the third port of the tee. Mine closes at 5 psi. then the pump fuel pump will receive power only after that much pressure and none when less . You need to connect it to the power source to the fuel pump of course. If your oil pump fails the engine will quit. If you crash and don't turn off the key and the engine stops the fuel pump will also. I have been running this for over a year with no problems. The RX also .

Arch, welcome to the club. We are all about Z cars here . Ask away and some one of knowledge in the area will respond. It would help in the future if you include your location in your profile, as you can see there are several Zdrivers in your area. Gary

I recently installed a 280 ZX engine with a moderate cam and headers etc, the engine pull great from the line . My cam is stated to be in the power band from 2000 to 5500 RPM. At the top end of this range she is still pulling strong . The head was milled and 9.5 to 1 is the result. As this is not a car for the track , I didn't wish any higher RPMs . What has been passed on to me during my research , is the more lift and overlap the less vacuum the engine is drawing in at low RPMs . SUs are vacuum dependant to function properly . You may find also for the same reason the idle speed must be raised . With a ''lumpy '' cam , as you say , the engine will require a higher compression as well . As to the size of needles I have been running 54s and they have been good but I recently switched to 27s and the engine seems to be smoother and perform some what better . Time will tell on this when she goes on the dyno . What needles are in your carbs ? Gary

A 240 garage queen as you ask , you are looking at $10K on up . If you are looking for a series 1 all origional add another 8K STICKER SHOCK IS A BITCH. In the last 4 yrs or so things have changed drasticly.:rambo: