beandip

The intakes will go great with the metal fan ! Really they are looking Gooood, K did a kick as& job . Gary

One note , If you ever want to replace the light bulbs in the gages , the glove box access is the access , unless you remove the dash . If you are concerned about the durability . Spray clear over the outside , this will seal it and stiffen it some . If you are not concerned with OEM look shoot the inside as well . My glove box has survived 33 years , so your new one should likely out last your Z .

I used 77 on my Z and go to ACE hardware and find the rolls of foam that are about 3/8'' wide that has a peal off backing . I used the stuff that is about 1/4'' thick and I applied it as you said . On the overlap areas and the contact points. Originally from the factory they used a thin foam that was glued in but has rotted away , at least mine had. I HAVE NO SQUEAKS . Gary

Welcome to the club, take a little time and check out the search and tech articles . You might fine them vary informative , and any questions on your Z fire away . One of us should be able to help , most likely several . Gary

This thing and I think it is called a dashpot , has been removed from my engine for over 5 yrs .

I THINK YOU ARE THINKING OF , DASHPOT .

Check the linkage that connects the two carbs together . If you grasp the rod and cannot find any play from side to side , that is the problem. Are you using this part of the linkage from the old Flat tops ? At least this is a good place to start looking for sticking throttle linkage. The center linkage should have a loose fit if it is the correct one. That's my thoughts . Gary

I DID THE SAME THING , WILE THE CAR WAS DOWN. HELPS TO KEEP THE FOCUS ON THE FINISH . Hang in there .

:knockedou I have a selfish reason not to go with YELLOW. The more cars are painted yellow the less mine will stand out. As someone already said if there is a chance you are keeping the car , suite your self . Go with your favorite , I would hold off on the stripes though , as Arne said . There is a color that looks awesome, it's the gold metallic that is on the 350Z the ''golden toad''. It looks super on a classic Z body shape . :knockedou

:knockedou I have a selfish reason not to go with YELLOW. The more cars are painted yellow the less mine will stand out. As someone already said if there is a chance you are keeping the car , suite your self . Go with your favorite , I would hold off on the stripes though , as Arne said . There is a color that looks awesome, it's the gold metallic that is on the 350Z the ''golden toad''. It looks super on a classic Z body shape . :knockedou

I pulled the engine and trans as a unit . I did remove the carbs but that was all. I did the removal and installation by my self with no help. I used a Cherry picker type of hoist . I lowered the engine down to just off the floor and removed the trans and flywheel then raised it and attached the block to the engine stand. Just take your time and watch what you are doing so you don't strike the inside of the engine bay coming out. Give your self plenty of room to maneuver . Of course the radiator and hood must be removed , remember the car will rise as the engines weight is removed . So be sure you are not hampered by a low overhead . Going back in I padded the inner fenders with a couple of blankets when I reinstalled the engine because I had just painted the whole car . Going back in I left the manifolds off , because I used headers and the fit is close . I find it much more difficult to reattach the trans to the engine when it is in the car. Especially if you have a automatic. I rented the cherry picker , I recommend a engine leveler , rent one of those also. I just use a chain but I have done this many times . It can get a little spooky having to tilt the engine and the chain must slip to do this . Use a leveler ! Gary

What is your question ?

The intake on the 260 engine is a good one. You will need the insulators that fit between the carbs and the intake. The ones for the round tops are much thicker. The linkage that fits between the round tops is a different length the flat top length and will not work. You will also need the air cleaner so you can connect the various hoses . Like the over flow lines from the float bowls and the clean air supply line that goes to the fuel tank . The 260 air cleaner is different and can only work if you get some kind of adapter . I think Ztherapy sells them . Where are you , in the USA ? Gary

I recently installed a radiator from a 280 and a Arne stated it extends below the lower support about 2" . What I am going to do is add a length of square thin wall square tubing about 2'' in size , and add it to the lower support . This will protect the lower tank and also give me a place to attach the leading edge of the dust shield , that covers the area in front of the engine . The 3 core does keep things cool , I have a ZX engine also. And so far it's great. My old two core unit that was a stock one kept he engine at normal temp , but the upper tank needed to be removed and re soldered at a cost that was the same as the ''new'' three core . So I went for the change . MSA has 3 core 240 radiators for $375.00 If you want to go that route .

Ha Ha , yeah right ! But it is bright. Of course , not everyone has the same opinion . My , ''person who must be obeyed '', first comment was . " it looks like a CAB " .

This is what I had to do on my Z for the same reasons . The 1200 or 2400 paper is right on, any courser will leave scratches that are difficult to buff out. I too got good results with the Mcguires and a buffer. Just go slow and be patient, keep the buffer moving so you don't heat or burn the paint. be mind full of the body lines and edges . you can go through to the primer quickly . Gary

I agree , if by spray pack you are saying to paint over the primer. Paint will seal the primer from moisture , all this will be removed when you paint the car vary quickly , so do top coat the primer , with paint. my 2 cints . Gary

I agree Dont paint it YELLOW. When I picked my color I went to he PPG web site and they show a chart of the popular colors in the different countries. I was going to go with a dark purple/blue . I favor that color but I do want to be seen . Not to blend in mainly for safety concerns . Although my Car does get looks every where I drive it. And I must say I don't mind that . Any way PPG's chart showed was yellow was high in popularity in Aus. and way down the list in the USA , and since it was my second choice this is the way I went. Since my car was painted , by Scanlon , yellow is seen plenty and I am not as unusual. hA ha , My advise is to look at similar shaped cars to the Z . And see how the color looks in the sunlight . Looking at a large sedan and liking the color then painting a small sports car the color will look much different. Flat panels vs. rounded curves and sharp edges our Z have . Especially when metallic is thrown in the mix. The BMW roadster has a great looking purple/lavender sort of gray that looks fantastic on a Z . When I said safety before, here in Oregon with the wet pavement much of the time , this color blends in to the pavement color. This is what I meant. My Z as Arne said is SCREAMING YELLOW , that's the name of it . It's a 2005 Cobra Mustang color. Otherwise known as ''ARREST ME YELLOW '' Gary

THAT WAS A VARY HELPFULL STATEMENT . NOT

Welcome to the club . I don't know what is going on , there has been a number of new members from Washington St , in the past week . You will find that there is a wealth of information here . Take a little time and have a look around . Use the search and you will find that there are articles written by members explaining many of your Questions . But in any event feel free to ask away . Gary

I bought my '73 for $500.00 in Feb of '01 , she was a parts car for the PO. All in primer and rough , the roof had been sat on and had Butt dents just back of the windshield. The rest of the roof was as smooth as a sack of potatoes. The PO didn't have any mechanical skills and tuned the engine to the point that it hardly ran . It didn't smoke and no weird noises from the block so I went for it. After a good tune the engine ran like a watch . I replaced all the brakes rotors ,master cylinder and tires . And drove her like this for 2 years while I fixed little things that were wrong . 3 years ago , about , I started a redo not a restore . I pulled the engine, trans , all the interior and wiring . All the glass was removed , and the front fenders and doors and hatch . I installed a R200 diff. Also removed the fuel tank and did away with the evap tank. The gas tank came out because there was body damage on the rear end of the car. To repair it correctly the tank was in the way . With the help of my friend , escanlon, the body work was completed and I prepped her for paint. All the body work and painting was done in my garage at home and I have done all the mechanical and a lot of the body pounding . I shot primer and Scanlon the color and clear . All the while she was apart , almost 3 years , I rebuilt all the stuff that had been removed form the car. A new floor pan had been welded in , I had that done. A nearly fresh 280zx replaced the L-24 , the automatic was retained , I finished , or almost so, shortly after Ed did his Z, about a year ago. Before the interior was reinstalled all rust was taken care of and any bare metal was treated with POR. about 80 sq ft of sound deadening was added inside the cabin area . I have just over 3000 miles on her now and have enjoyed every one. We painted her '05 Ford Mustang " screaming yellow " . Like the saying goes , ''WHY BLEND IN WHEN YOU CAN STAND OUT " With the performance cam and the SUs , headers and so on , she is a strong runner . One day I will post pictures. I did the car for me , she is not a show car, but does look nice . As I stated not a restored car but redone . She is valued at $12K now.:rambo:

I also want to welcome you to the club. I have a 240 also and with an automatic. This was the first thing I was going to change and go to a 5 speed. That was 5 years ago. Now, I have no intentions of changing at all. I really like the automatic. I guess it's what ever floats your boat . I built my car for the street , and in traffic as well as in the mountains I like the freedom of the auto. There has been a ton of stuff thrown at you on what to check and to do . All are good suggestions for sure. I would like to add that one of the top priorities should be brakes. be sure to check the rubber lines that run from the back of the the wheels to the metal lines on the car. If these are original replace them they will fail. Take a good look at them and bend them with your hands if they show any cracks on the surface buy some new ones. You didnt say , is this your daily driver ? Or will you be able to have her off the road for a while. As to the performance , sounds like a good general tune up is in order , that's all and it is a easy thing to do on your Z . Once you understand the SUs , you will be able to adjust them . No problem . You said that you had a couple of manuals that came with the car . What are they ? Some times it helps if we can reference a certain page of a manual to explain what we are talking about . All the best . Gary

If you need a name HIGH VOLTAGE ! That is an amazing electric blue. Gary

Welcome , I think most of us are dealing with the earlier cars . '70-78 , but if we can be of help you are sure welcome to ask. We know of those that are experienced in the newer Zs, and can refer you . Gary