beandip

Jeff , from the pictures the overall looks of the car is not bad. However in the pictures showing blistering paint . This is rust through from the back side . I agree that the floor pans most likely will need replacing as well as the rockers . I would recommend that the rocker be done BEFORE any new painting is done. Just filling the holes and moving on should not be an option as the rust will keep coming through and the rockers are an important part of the uni body. I wouldn't qualify this car as a parts car , it is vary doable . Much depends on your ability to do the work or being able to afford the repair costs. Floors and rockers alone your are looking at around 3K . If you can find a good custom body shop that knows what they are doing . And you haven't started with any thing else . Like brakes, suspension , tires . The engine is another question . I just read DeesZ post and I think he said it vary well . A dash will run $500.+ also. You didn't say where you live and shipping can be a big HIT . Gary:rambo:

I wouldn't start the engine until you can rotate the engine completely and it will rotate freely . Keep oil in the cylinders so they remain well lubed. One thing , when the engine is stopped there is always two valves open . Moisture can enter there and also rust the valve stems as well . If a valve sticks open bad things happen to pistons and the valve , so be sure all is moving freely before starting. As to the old Battery . It is a waist of time to try and charge one that has been in dead in the car for a length of time like this. It is possible that the rust in the cylinder will clean up . Just watch the oil consumption after you are driving the car . Gary PS there is a all Datsun Show at Blue Lake Park in Gresham this Sunday the 13th.

I wish I could have been there !! NEXT WEEK ! E how many cars took part in the show this week ? It's hard to tell from the pictures . I think they were saying about 650 + is what there have been ,and up to 850 a night . So far this year. Were the drag racing going also tonight ? Gary PS . Great looking A roadster the chick is looking at .

260Zlover , be sure to use the thicker insulators that go between the carb and the intake manifold . Do keep the same intake , you will need the linkage that fits between the SUs because it is of a different spacing than the flat tops. Use the air cleaner box form the 240 also . They have velocity stacks built in to them , so they are already tuned for performance at the factory . After market set ups don't have this unless you buy them separate from what I am told. Gary

Just playing the devil's advocate here !!!! It is possible that they could have dropped the nut and it landed on the linkage stop in the down position . I have dropped fasteners and have spent time looking for them and never have or did after I moved the car and swept up. Is it possible that the nut lying on the stop and when the throttle was depressed it simply slid in place instead of falling off the engine. I don't have a injected Z so I cannot try to see if this is possible , but from the pictures it does look probable. When they started the engine and it went to fast idle when cold , wouldn't the idle speed be increased ? I grant you 2300 is a vary high idle and they should have questioned this. Gary

I have a question. When you use the flat top air cleaner with the adaptor on the SUs . Is there the proper connections for the overflows from the carbs and the valve cover vent hose, as well as the fresh air return to the gas tank ? My '73 was already switched over , but I would like to know . Gary:rambo:

When I first drove my 240 home from the PO , it hardly ran after being ''tuned'' by him. One SU was set rich and the other one lean . The timing was 10 degrees retarded . I pulled into a gas station on the way home , in a not so nice part of town, and when I shut her off there was a hell of a back fire . Three guys hit the ground ! They didn't think it was vary funny . If you are running flat top carbs , my advise is to replace them with round top SUs . If you are already running SUs . They need adjustment , or maybe you have a nozzle sticking when you turn off the choke. Gary

Darrel , I don't have a clue who lonetreesteve is . Bryan goes by newclubsman . Gary

We were there for only a short time and were being sh-offered around to see the sights . We were only at there home for the first day . They wanted us to be accustomed to the high altitude . One day isn't enough . Us old farts need more time than that. We went to Black Hawk and I won $150.00 that was fun. I don't imagine we will be visiting Denver for a while though. Did you meet up with Bryan when he was in Denver ? Gary I know what you mean about the panel changers and spot painters. This outfit is a custom body shop from the work I saw that was done. Show Quality. But I am sure they want bucks for this kind of work . Good quality like this takes time and talent.

With no further information that this , it sounds like you are running rich and the excess gas is detonating in the muffler. It will eventually destroy the muffler if not corrected. As well as your neighbors patience . , Gary

If you remove or pull the rod that extends out of the vacuum booster the reaction disk will likely drop out of position. If this happens the peddle will go to the floor when the brakes are applied . So when you remove the master cylinder , don't mess with the rod. I was lucky and was able to reposition the disk in place with out taking the booster all apart . The problem 280 is having does not sound like the reaction disk situation. Sounds more like the Master is faulty. Try bleeding the MC once more . Gary

My Wife and I were just in Denver this past week visiting friends. While there I came across a Body shop the is top notch. I looked closely at three of the cars that they had finished , after collisions and they had done complete paint jobs on two of them. FLAWLESS , really nice . One had been T-boned and the other the right front fender and door. I would take my car there in a heartbeat. They are in Lafayette , at 1265 Rock Cr. Circle 720 890 0954 . The name of the business is Exotic Bodies by Jim . I didn't ask any questions about pricing , but work like this is top quality . Just thought I would pass on the info . Gary

Mike , welcome . Sounds like you hit the mother load. Like Carl said take this one step at a time. I know you are anxious to hear the engine run , but try and rain in the excitement. The same with jumping in and changing the hood or looks of the car. Get her on the road , make her safe first , then enjoy what you have . Then get involved in how you want the car to be. Believe me you will be glad you did. I live in the Cedar Mill area of Ptln , and I hope to meet you at the PIR show . I wont be able to make this next one , but Scanlon hits them all. All the best , Gary 240 driver

A heavy duty flasher will cycle slower and the light duty will be much faster. Much depends on the load on the circuit. I doubt that the heavy duty one will harm anything but once a min is not much of a turn signal.

I agree since it was running OK . I don't know what the tach thing is all about though . I had a module go out on me and the engine just quit like I had turn the key . I wonder if the problem is in the tach being it was acting up at the time. It must be in the loop for the engine to run. I just went to the bone yard the other day and picked up a module from a '80 ZX and the guy just gave it to me.

Welcome to the web site . You have come to the right place if you need help with almost anything on your Z . One thing that will help you and us is to list where you are , in your profile . It will show under your name when you post. This site covers the World literally and some times it does make a difference when recommending a source for parts . You may be surprised that there may be other Z drivers in your area . I live in the Portland Oregon area. I also drive a 240 , a '73 . Gary:classic:

Vince , welcome to the club . You will find a wealth of information on tap here . There is extensive amount of information in the search section , do have a look there also. Good to have you aboard , again welcome . Gary

Bill , you didn't mention what else you are running . For a stock L-6 , a 2 1/4'' system is maximum is size . Larger will lower the low end torque. At least this is what I have been told and what I have experienced . Having said that I am running 2 1/2 '' mandrel bent , but it was free so I went with it . In time I will replace it with 2 1/4 '' . I prefer the Dynomax muffler super turbo. It breathes vary well and has a great low sound . I personally do not like the raspy sound of exhaust systems. For a resonator I recommend a Thrush glass pack. They have a perforated inside pipe instead of a louvered one . Louvers restrict the flow . My engine is mildly built . It's a ZX 280 with mild head work and a warm street cam and headers . And again for my setup a 2 1/4'' would be the best. In my view . Some back pressure is needed for good flow and scavenging effect. The larger piping is for top end HP. If you are into racing on the track and need to keep the engine spooled up to the high revs of a hot cam , then the larger plumbing is in order . I know there will be differences of opinion here , this is what makes this web site interesting. Gary

Kelly I agree but I think we have beat this to death here . Nuff said Gary

Just to add another note to the same tune being played. We here on the LEFT COAST are having the same problems only instead of the people from N.O. it's the illeagals from south of the border , from Mexico . For the past two years, at least, it is a daily news item of a rape , burglary, or robbery and assault. Nearly always it is a hispanic that is the perp. Time and time again. We are flooded with illeagals here in Oregon . And we are feeling the destruction of our way of life. Our kids graduating High School cannot find jobs , the same with the construction industry. Things are starting to unravel . Like Carl Beck I lament the future of our grandchildren and our country. Gary:ermm:

Last Friday I went to the Bone Yard and picked up a few parts . and made the mistake of tossing the change in the ash tray of my Z. I know better but it was vary , vary hot and I wasn't thinking clearly I guess . On the way home the old blister had a fit , must have not been enough cash in the ash tray . To make a long story short I ended up with my Z on a flatbed and I damn near had a heat stroke. KEEP YOUR MONEY HIDDEN AND NEVER PUT ANY IN THE ASH TRAY ! :stupid: Gary

Will I completely agree with what you have said . Especially the part of being a car guy is working on your car not just being seen with it. Owning a old car of any make , they take TLC to keep them on the road period . If a person buys a Z because it is a cute little sports car . The majority of the time they are the ones like to be seen in or with there Z. Unless they have money to burn the infatuation will fade before long. How many times have you seen a cherry car sold to someone and a year or so later, it looks like crap. With the amount of knowledge on this web site , any one with any mechanical ability can maintain and improve to there liking , any Z . If they have the desire , they are the true car guys . Otherwise known as a ''GEAR HEAD'' . As Will said the virus is incurable. Gary

If it is pinging as you state . Solve the problem because that is detonation and it could damage the engine. Too advanced timing as Will said , and or too low of a octane fuel can be the cause . If the engine has much carbon build up this also cause pinging because it can glow and cause the fuel mixture to prematurely ignite/detonate . Gary

Ok , Ok , Now You Have Done It ! E. Is Going To Need A Larger Hat Size Now .