beandip

It seems obvious that neoxman is in WAY OVER HIS HEAD. Is there any member that lives close to where he is ?? He needs some help here.

you will need to remove the manifold, sorry . I just dug out my old 240 manifold to see how my PO plugged the holes. there are nuts showing on the face of the holes and they are welded closed. Many people have gone though the removal of the tubes . This is not really a necessary thing really doesn't effect the performance. With or without the tubes being there. Have the holes welded closed. If you live close to Portland Oregon you can have my manifold for free. Gary

Some just have too much time on there hands .

For information. the way things are going in some states . If you have a pump hang on to it just in case the regulations are changed and we are forced to go back to them . The core charge alone is $200.00 for one of the darn things.

Actually the pump provides air into he exhaust manifold to provide some Oxygen in a attempt to further burn the gasses that are leaving and consume them eliminating some . Strictly a emissions thing . Will not effect performance. If you look there are small tubes attached to the casting of the exhaust manifold . this is where this happens . My tubes were plugged by the PO of my car as well as the pump removed. The EGR valve is what introduces exhaust gasses into the intake as part of the emissions system , and could be considered part of the pumps application . Gary

Carl yours is the first one I have heard of that the puller wouldn't remove. Was the nut and all thread both hardened material and was a bearing used also ? Of course if the pin was so rusted in place that it took much to pull it . I can see why it failed .

I am always glad to see another Z back up and running . You mite cut back on the Starbucks a little . Life is a bitch , but keep things in perspective. All the best to you . GaryLOL

I am sorry. If removing a seat from a early Z is not classified as a EASY job. Don't do any thing else on the car because it is all harder from here ! GAry:stupid:

Just one more thing to remember . The only function of this pin , is to keep the spindle pin from turning while it is tightened. So don't tighten it down like it is holding the suspension together when you are replacing the pin. Check the torque specs. By the way I have a spindle pin puller for loan if you need it. Makes this a easy job. Gary

Come on Zack you have been a member for over a year and a half. Read the post , but also see where they are in this world , BEFORE YOU JUMP IN. This sort of post is what starts a flaming war. Gary:p

this is a thermostat controlling the temp in the intake . I never had one of these on my engine since I have owned my Z , and no problem so far after this long. As to the fuel pump bolt holes with stripped threads . I recommend taking the car to a mechanic and have a Helicoil installed . I believe this is the best remedy. Shouldn't be vary costly at all . Gary

O' yeah the 2 1/4 is really just right for your L-24 or a L-28 for any street driven Z , according to the people in the ''know '' the I have talked with. Mandrel bent is best thou no doubt. Gary

likemyz , I just had another thought . I was finding gas in the oil when I was running 27 needles, way too rich . The oil was fowl smelling and dirtied vary quickly. Switched to 54 and all is great now. 3K on the oil and it is clean still and no smell . I am running electronic ignition and NGK plugs and the engine is running clean now. Gary

When I bought my '73 it had 1 3/4'' piping . I doubt that it was origional but it appeared to be OEM . Gary:classic:

Arne , do you remember my Mags ? If you have a anniversary gold edition of the Motorsport catalog showing a yellow 240 with the same wheels I have . These are the only other set I have seen , that have the '' spokes '' going all the way to the center of the hub. Who made them ? Gary

there is NO need to touch the valves , unless the compression falls off from them leaking or oil consumption becomes a problem from valve seals leaking. regardless of the miles. Don't fix it if it ain't broke. :rambo:

As was posted ahead of my 2cts. Change all the fluids ALL of them . brake fluid included . I would also change the rubber brake lines at each wheel. Clearing the old fluid could be a chore if it has turned to jelly. DO NOT START THE ENGINE with the old oil in the block . Remove the valve cover and pull the spark plugs . Pour fresh oil over the cam and components. put some engine oil or auto trans fluid , in each plug hole , about a table spoon full . DO NOT turn the engine over with the starter. Not yet , use a socket on the crankshaft pulley and turn the engine over and watch the valve to be SURE none are stuck and moving freely. When these engines are shut down , there are always two valves left open . This allows the two cylinders open to the atmosphere , and moisture. This can cause rust to form inside the cylinders , this is why the addition of oil in the plug holes. Also valve stems can rust those valves in place . Spinning the engine on the starter will cause the piston to strike the valve and bend it and or damage the piston. I would replace all hosed , heater and all . There is a heater hose under the dash connected to a control valve , just above the foot well on the passenger side. I would only put water in the radiator until you are sure there are no leaks. No rush with this. Before you drive the car be sure the brakes are in good order . Rust has been covered already , however pull the carpet on both sides of the trans tunnel and expose the floors . If they need to be replaced you are looking at about 1K each side. Look for rust through, under the battery tray and at the frame rail right there . Another costly replacement. Directly in front of and in back of the doors. Down low bubbles in the paint down low in these areas usually mean rust through of the ends of the rocker which is the frame of the car . This just what you are looking at for starters. The rust issues are things I mention just because you need to evaluate if you are going to come up with a value for the car. A 5 speed is not stock but is not a deterrent in my view. If the engine is original the serial number is located on the block on the passenger side below #6 spark plug and it will match the badge on the inner fender . SUs are good carbs , just watch for sticking floats at start up there are hoses coming out of the tops of the float bowl where you can watch for this . Also this is a good place to prime the carbs before starting the engine the first time, I use a large Hypodermic and squirt gas in through this overflow hose . If a float sticks open quickly tap the bowl with a screw driver handle usually this will dislodge it . Fresh gas will , many times , melt the varnish that is sticking the float down. If we can be of help , just ask . All the best Gary :classic:

the third gear in a auto is 1 to 1 the same as forth gear on a 5 speed . According to the calculator for tires at the tire rack. I am running 3.70 ratio and am turning 3K at about 60 mph My speedo is not accurate and this info is being clocked by a pace car . Gary

With that amount of gas in the oil , I think you are right . You might consider going with a electric . Your car is wired for one. Be sure to change the oil and filter right away. Gasoline will rob the oil of all lubricating quality for your engine. Gary

I this vary mod 4 years back only I used a pressure switch that has two male blade connectors I think it was $6.00 at nappa. It activates the fuel pump at 5 psi oil pressure . This way if I need to by pass it I simply connect the two female connectors with a modern fuse which I keep in the glove box. I paid $15.00 for my pump at the bone yard. Three years and all is good. They put out 5 psi. My Z has all '72 wiring and it is prewired from the factory for a electric pump . There is a in-line fuse near the radio that is for this mod. It is on the passenger side of the foot well. The inertia switch I found on a Ford truck in he cab up by the heater . Simply wire it in line with the fuse. I have tried this pump on a stroker engine with triple Mikuni's and it supplied them with no problem. Do install a in-line filter before the pump to safeguard it . Gary

This past week the Discovery channel has been showing Steve's shows one after the other. It's just hard to believe he is gone . Definitely he will be missed by us all , our kids especially. He made his exploits interesting for us all.

Hi Kathy , Welcome to the web site , you will find many members vary willing to be of help. All the best to you. Gary

First of all , be aware that primer is porous and if exposed to the weather , the metal surface beneath the primer will rust . So if you sand down to primer and or bare metal , prime and PAINT the area . Even if it is just rattle can paint . This will seal the repair and prevent the rust problem and the area can easily be sanded clean and prepped properly for paint when the finish is to be applied all over the car. Depending on what type of finish paint you are going with , not all primer and or paint , rattle can , is compatible . Gary:knockedou

I have just now read this thread from the beginning . I do have to add that , I have used POR-15 products in there many forms . I have followed the instructions and prepped the metal as was directed . I have had the stuff on my Z now for almost 4 years and have a zero failure . The only place where it didn't perform was on a surface that I hadn't prepped and I didn't want there any way. This was on a primered fender , where it ran down from the marker light hole when I was BRUSHING the POR on the inside of a rear fender. I let it cure and was going to start sanding the panel in preparation to finish. Instead of sanding it , it lifted off like plastic rap , but only up to the opening in the fender where the metal had been properly treated. I have heard of other failures of POR by members of this web site , but after asking them how the surface was prepped they took shortcuts . Simple Green WILL NOT PREP THE METAL CORRECTLY , THE SAME WITH ANY LAQUER THINNER OR ACEATONE ! As was mentioned before , I was going to spray some rattle can paint on my turbine wheels after I polished them and I wanted to get the metal REALLY CLEAN . After masking the polished metal , I sprayed marine clean over the wheels from the back side and rinsed it off. Let the wheels dry in the sun and then the sprayed the rattle can paint . When I removed the masking tape the MARIENE CLEAN had etched the shine of the polished metal I had just finished. !! I had to re-polish . My wheels have 40 spokes on each wheel . So my point is use the proper recommended preparation materials and you wont have any failure . Of course moisture is a BIG FACTORE with applying POR . The paint is water reactive and if there is moisture it will react and foam will occur. Be sure all is dry. It is not recommended to apply POR on a rainy day , just because of the high humidity will cause the paint to cure too quickly. I live in Portland Oregon we have rain 9 months a year here . Again after 4 years I have zero failure and I drive my Z . She is no garage Queen. Do I use POR-15 ? YOU BET ! Do recommend it ? ABSOLUITLY ! Do I have any connection with the company ? NO MY 2 CTS. Gary :er-mm:

I just heard from Phred, tonight. He is well and has been vary busy over the past 9+ months with work. He also has been vary busy with racing . He in involved with a team racing Midgets . He said that they have won the Championship in Washington St , and is going to be doing more races in Ore . they are going to Calif raceway for testing and then off the Florida. he did say that he would be posting on the web site this winter , during the off season. So the member that asked me about Phred , he is well and doing good. GaryLOL