beandip

First of all , if that rusty mess of a Dist is the ZX unit , Sorry but at best it is just a core to trade in on a rebuilt unit . The bronze bushings are most likely bad as well. the breaker plate cannot be salvaged ,but they are available . I completely rebuilt my .79 ZX dist. everything but the bushings . Cost me $79.00 . If I remember correctly the breaker plate was about $45.00 but that was 3 years ago. Now for the vac advance , it's function is to advance the ignition when the vacuum is down , like when you depress the throttle. The vacuum advance will advance the timing about 8* to 18*at 650 RPM if you had the timing set at 10* at idle. The Centrifugal advance takes over from there and will advance another 17* for a total of 35 . This is from memory so I could be off a degree or so. But I do remember the 650 of centrifugal advance kicking in. So with out the vacuum advance pot, the likely hood of a hesitation at throttle opening may be experienced . Also besides the dist from a ZX you also must have the ZX part the the dist bolts on to that bolts to the block . The 240 part will not work , you wont be able to set the timing properly. Another thing , just because the welding rod showed the the piston was at TDC , but it may not have been on the compression stroke . Gary

Hay I love the 3000GT that is a hell of a ride. Don't be too hasty there . Welcome to the club . As was stated ahead of me you have come to a great place to find information about these fine little wonders of frustrtation. HA Ha We all love our Zs and enjoy them by driving them as well as looking at the great styling. But that is another matter. Partsguy , Brushy , Bre-240z welcome to our little group . There are members all over the world that come here. Gary

Welcome to the club . You said that you have replaced the vac/booster. If by chance you pulled the rod that is in the booster on the engine side you may have dislodged the reaction disk . If this is the case you will have the result that the peddle will go almost to the floor . It is possible , although with a lot of luck , to get the disk back in place with out disassembling the booster. By just shaking it back in place . I was able to do it . Before you do anything with the booster ! Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it ? In any event , do bleed the master just in case . Just do it in place Then the wheel cylinders. Hopefully this is the trouble and not he booster . Gary

Welcome to the club. If you are in need of an engine or parts , check out Idaho Z car , Kim may be a great help . He is in Nampa just out of Boise . smokyyaro@velocitus.net or 208 466 0004 If he has a engine you like it most likely will be far less money than doing a rebuild . Just a thought . Gary

Yes RAMAH MACHIENE AS WAS POSTED OR WHAT LEB POSTED . I have used ezy-outs many times over the years . They are a last resort for me. I have found that they are successful for me about 25% of the time.

As long as were venting . My pet peeve is the damn cell phones , people on cells are such a hazard . I cannot imagine what is so darn important that it cannot wait until you are at your destination. I turn mine off when I am on the Freeway. Also as been mentioned before tailgating . Finely they are giving tickets for it here in Portland . Gary

I have been using my '73 tach since 2001 years havent had any problems with it. One of the best additions to a 240 in my book. Gary:classic:

Proper tools make the job of pulling the pins a easy chore. I just pulled mine , they were originnal in a '73 . I pulled them while in the car . Took about 20min a side. Removing the bushings was a different matter. Gary I have a puller that I loan to members.

Jimmy , you might outline how you purged the tank before you started cutting into it . Other wise someone might blow up a tank with a spark .

Matt , you are sure it is exhaust fumes and not a stale gas smell right ? New vent hoses right ? You have replaced the tail light gaskets and all the hatch seals , right ? What shape were the hatch hinge seals in ? Check in the inner fender area by the antenna , down low where the drain hose from antenna exits . Another area could be a problem is where the vent hoses enter the cabin below the hatch sill . There is supposed to be rubber seals that fit around the hoses Seal this area with silicone . Do you have rubber plugs in the hatch that fill the holes along the bottom of the hatch ? Are you running stock air cleaner with the vent hose running to it from the valve cover , or are you using one of the little filters ? If you are smelling a too rich fuel mixture , have you checked the float levels . If they are set too high the carbs will could be dumping raw gas into the air stream also what needles are you using . I am running a ZX engine with SUs and a Cam and SMs or 27s were way too rich , as soon as I changed to 54s it was just right . When you painted the car did you also paint the engine bay with the engine out ? Are all the holes in the firewall plugged or have proper seals ? Choke cables and throttle linkage and around the wiring below the battery where the main harness enters the firewall ? This is all I can come up with , I hope this is of help . Gary

Another Reply To A 3 Year Old Thread

RIGHT AND CHANGE THE LIGHT BULBS WHILE YOU ARE AT IT .!! DID YOU READ THE ORIGIONAL POST . IT IS OVER 2 YEARS OLD !:mad:

I did what your are starting . I removed everything except the suspension . All of the glass and wiring . Did the rust repair , body work and paint at home in my garage. I did trailer the car to the welder for a floor pan replacement after I had installed the new one. I am saying I , EScanlon was a major help. Instead of going with the L-24 , I set it aside and installed a good F-54ZX engine and used the SUs. I vary happy with the results . I also replaced the Diff with a R-200 with a 3.70 gearing . Together it REALLY woke up my Z . I kept the old engine but I am thinking of selling the rods and crank to someone building a stroker . My Z is not a all original car as I have said , and will never be a Concours car . So in my opinion , numbers matching means nothing for my car . If you are planning on your Z for a pleasure driver . By all means do the 280 . My 2 cts. Gary

They come in clear and tinted. Check with your State's DMV and see if they are leagl for you . Not all allow them . I have seen tests where the lenses defuse the light from the head lights . EScanlon has them on his Z . His are OEM though . Ask him how he likes them . Gary

Carl were the dashes you mentioned , ones from Queensland or here in the U.S. ? There is some history with the company in Washington. I would spend the money for shipping and buy the dash from the original company is Queensland. Gary

I use the regular slow cure JB . Also if you are repairing the seat hinge covers and need to replace missing bits. If you use masking tape on the patch to hold the JB Weld , it will give a texture that is close to the surface on the part. I used the fabric that POR sells . To repair the panels. I think most any mesh type of product will work with the JB , I even have used the matting used for landscaping for weed control. It works great and it doesn't have loose strands that keep coming off the patch as you work with it. I also used the ultimate on the plastic for noise deadening. I think every plastic panel on my car was cracked and you would never know it unless I show where the repairs are . Gary

Will , Is this a strut that is for a Z , or is it a strut for some other application that will work ? Gary

My friend I grew up with still drives his '58 Corvette , he bought just out of high school , and he is asked the same thing , '' what is it '' . SO . I mentioned the RX-8 in the beginning of this thread and I should have included the Honda 2000. Cost wise they are more in my possibility range . Honda did it right with the 2000 styling wise , they just dropped the ball with the mechanical part . Look , fit and finish is great , but the power is LACKING . Plus I prefer a GT .

I have a set of aluminum louvers and chose not to reinstall them when I redid my Z . For one they have hinges at the top that screw into the upper hatch and catches that do the same at the bottom corners. I found that they rub the glass in the center and it made a line in the glass down the middle of the hatch. Also they are noisy , they tend to vibrate while you are going down the road. I like the look of the aluminum type over the ABS because they are thinner and do not obstruct the view out the back , and provide a good sun shade at the same time. I have not run side louvers . Gary

I will jump in here . First of all I own a 240z . I prefer the styling of this car to all the other Zs that have been built , otherwise I would own one of the others. Along with the 240 all the 280s up to the '79 fall into the same category for me, as far as styling. I personally will never own a 350Z because I dislike the look of the car totally . Instead I would buy the G-35 . Or a RX-8 . I know I am going to be blasted for this opinion . But we all have one and this is mine . I prefer the simplicity of the 240 to the more complicated later versions of the later Zs . If I were to replace my Z . Most likely I would do it with a early 280 only because of availability , because the 240s are becoming difficult to find in good condition. Gary:classic:

It is getting difficult to find a performance tire in a 205 /60 X 14 , much less a 70 . And yes the 205s will fit.

While we are on this subject. Some tire shops use a jacking method that uses a H shaped hoist that the car is driven over then lifted. Be VARY careful of these. They will lift the car from the floor pan near the rockers. As there are fewer and fewer of our cars on the road . Not all of the shops have knowledge of the Z and will try and use the support that runs under the floor pan and extends to the front of the seat . My 240 had rusted floor pan on the passenger side . It was split all along the floor support when I bought the car . I think vary likely the failure of the weakened floor was due to this kind of lifting of the car. Gary:squareeye

I found a stock bar on a early 260Z , they have a curve bent in it so it will clear the front of he diff. They aren't real stiff but they help quite a bit to limit the body roll . It still provides me with a good ride as well . I am not into auto X or track use . I just do a fair amount of mountain driving and recommend this up grade. My '73 240 had the brackets on the floor pan already for the rubber block that holds the bar on each side , so for me it was a simple upgrade. Fabricating the bracket would be a simple matter and just weld it to the underside like Nissan did and you are good to go . If you would like a picture let me know. I just last night finished the installation of a set of Euro Stage 1 springs and KYB struts . As soon as I finish torquing things down properly with weight in the car I will give her a try. The Bar has been installed for a couple of years Gary