beandip

Fantastic job done. If I had the money I would buy it. Minor warts and all . It should bring 15k . I think it is worth it. Maybe even more . Mike was offered 20K for his yellow Z and this one appears as nice . I do agree the engine needs attention but that is no big deal. At leas to me it isn't. I would be more concerned that it has a dash cap. As for the console being rare . Try finding a new one from Nissan. Gary

I have had fantastic results with the Meguiar's MIRROR GLAZE . It says for clear plastic but I have found it is great on the taillights and turn signals as well. They have three levels of cleaner , and it depends on the damage . On my gauges I used the mildest two, but with the exterior lenses I used all three. Gary

Well if you are going to just do a brake job. The rear linings will run you about $35.00 for some good brake lining. If the drums are not scored or worn past the limit measurement. Also if the wheel cylinders are not frozen and are working OK then that is all the cost . OEM wheel cylinders will be about $75.00 each . The last time I checked the aluminum drums were about $75.00 at he parts store. For a Z not used for competition like Auto Cross or on the track. The stock set up is all you need . Other wise the disk conversion would be a wise upgrade. Vented disks in front and disks in the rear . this is not a cheep up grade. Maxima caliper mounts are available from your Nissan dealer, for less than what they are going for on EBay. I believe the dual piston calipers from a Toyota truck and 300zx rotors for the front is what has been found to be the conversion . I am sure others on this site have done this conversion . I have not. I think you should do a search on this as this has been a topic a number of times. If this isn't successful then start a new thread asking for information on the disk conversion specifically . Gary

I haven't priced the aluminum drums in a while , but they were not near that price at the parts store the last time I checked . Kits for the wheel cylinders run about $8.00 . Linings are about $35.00 a set for the rears. I just replaced my cylinders and linings a couple of weeks ago . my old cylinders were frozen and unusable. I bought new from Nissan . Gary

I havent priced the aluminum drums in a while , but they were not near that price at the parts store the last time I checked . Kits for the wheel cylinders run about $8.00 . Linnings are about $35.00 a set for the rears. I just replaced my cylinders and linnings a couple of weeks ago . my old cylinders were frozen and unusable. I bought new from Nissan . Gary

I was able to reuse my old seat supports . DO NOT CUT ANY METAL until you have your new pans in hand . I used Zedd findings floor pans and as has been said, they are first rate. When you cut the spot welds and remove the seat supports from he trans tunnel , just have he welder weld them in the same position. It looks like you may have to replace some metal on the trans tunnel . It all depends on how bad the rust is up the sides from the floor. All this metal is vary thin, but it still is part of the total strength of the car . What I did was to fit and position the new floor in place . Then I used self-tapping sheet metal screws and screwed the metal in place. I ended up with the screws about 5'' apart all the way around . When the my welder welded in the pan . As he went along he removed he screws and filled the holes. I made sure all the metal was clean before it was screwed together. This will save you bucks because your welder wont waist his time cleaning . I had a certified welder do mine and he ended up using his TIG because of the thin metal . Gary

I think there is a Nissan show coming up this month down your way . I live in Oregon so it isn't one I am planning on going to . I am sure you will get the info from someone here on the web site . Welcome to our club. I think what you are saying is true about not being accepted . However times are a-changing. Our club was invited to the Portland Custom and Roadster show . Which has been all American cars . The club display took a 2nd place and four out of five of our cars were awarded trophies . With the cost of customising or building a Hot rod being what they are now , not many people want to tie up 100,000.00 on a show car . They are realizing that they need new blood . they don't accept the ''Ricers'' and unfortunately our Z cars are often painted with the same brush . At least up here we are accepted . Gary

I didn't hear one negative comment .

I didn't hear one negative comment . Lots of stories on how he or she had one of these cars way back when and wished they never sold it. Or similar comments . But all positive . I did hear one couple say . These are beautiful cars and really they are doing the same thing we are with our '40 Ford . I had one guy ask me what a Z like the yellow one would be worth ? I told him in the 20s . He looked at his wife and said ''that's affordable''. Gary:rambo:

Welcome synthetic, I hope you enjoy the web site and can find a pearl or two in the archives and search function that pertains to your new toy . It seems the majority of the members are driving the early Zs on this site . Certainly not all . For sure as time goes on as the 240s diminish , more and more of the later Zs like yours and the 280Z will be the majority . I am only saying this to answer your question and certainly not to dissuade you from joining us . again welcome . Gary

I found the power already there from the factory for the the foot well area. If you want to mount lights in the door drill a hole in the door and jamb and use a length of vinyl tubing , like for the windshield washers, to make the bridge between the two and fish your wires in the tube . The same as if you were running speaker wires . Gary

I have them installed in my '73 . Only in the kick panels . there are punch out perforations in the Masonite and the kick panel. The area is pre wired from the factory . The wires I found rolled up with blue tape . EScalon pointed them out to me . He had done this with different lights on his car. The lights you have are the same that I used . They are used also in the Maxima's, on the doors . My Z not being stock I went a step farther and mounted two more in the rear hatch area in the access panels to the tail lights . Non of these lights are real bright really but seem just right for what they are intended for . Gary

Need background. the engine is frozen up from setting ? If so don't try the starter . have you put any oil in the cylinders to help there ? You are not affording much info . Have you tried the starter or not ? You can always put the trans in gear and see if you can brake it loose . the thing is if the rings are rusted to the bore you can damage the piston forcing the issue. Also the valve stems could also be rusted. If you stick a valve spinning the engine with the starter you would bend some valves and maybe punch a hole in a piston . Gary

Send a PM to escanlon

what about the two tone completely stock 280 with the T tops ? wops I guess that may have been a ZX

the rotor for all the ZX units are the same . Gary

Originally there was a thermostat , 150 degree, that screwed into the outlet from the intake at the firewall end , then there is a length of hose connected to a tubing that wraps around the rear of the block to the passenger side . The water going through the intake will help with the cold blooded nature of the Z at start up and help to cool it from the heat of the exhaust manifold . I believe the thermostat is NLA . I run the water but without it . :rambo: Gary

[quote=Tall John;207834 The next step is some brake work. Pretty sure I'll need to go through the whole system from the pedal to the wheels. one of the drums is stuck so i've been reading a few old posts about that. I've also been reading up on the electrical system and installing distributors. I'd still like to learn some more before I start turning any wrenches on the engine! I'm sure I'll have a ton of newb questions! Welcome to the Club John , it looks like you have found a gem . One thing I think would be a good idea while you are sorting out the electrical and brakes . Pull the spark plugs and shoot some oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over with a socket on the crank nut . Don't spin it with the starter . this is if the car has been inoperative for a long time .

Brian , come by and pick up my spindle pin puller . With it you will pull the pins in 5 min. per side , after you have the car on stands and the wheels off . I the inner control arm bushings are simple to change . Some times if these bushings are torqued down with the car up on stands . When the car is lowered it puts a strain on the bushings and they will fail prematurely because of the added twist . I just finished doing mine , and I learned allot doing the job . Gary

KTM did you notice where Doehring lives ?

I have a '73 and I have weighed it on 3 different scales . 2420 Lbs This is with a spare tire and jack plus 1/2 a tank of gas. I don't know what is printed on the glove box door . What surprised me was the weight on the front axle is almost the same as the rear. I cannot remember the exact numbers but is is less than 100 lbs difference . Gary :rambo: There is a difference between the 4 speed and the 5 speed in weight but not much and the engines are all the same weight, Maybe the injection manifold is a pound or two more , but the block and head is the same . In fact I am running a 280 ZX engine in my Z now and one of the weigh ins mentioned above was with the L-24 now that I think about it.

For one thing the R-200 is larger than the R-180 . The two studs on the rear of the diff are larger on the R-200 . The numbers are stamped on the ring gear but you would need to remove the rear cover . What are they out of ? If you know what Z the diffs. are from, then we can tell you what they are, and the gear ratio. Automatics have 3.54 to one and manuals 3.36 to 1 MOSTLY . Some 2 + 2s have the R-200 with 3.70s . Zs with 5 speed tyranny's have 3.90s . so you see it helps to know what the Z was that they were pulled from . Gary

Normthe12secdude turns in the 12s running a pair of SUs . To try and adjust a pair of SUs with out a uni-sen or some similar tool , to balance the two carbs is almost impossible to do right. If you are going to run with multiple carbs buy one , the best $25.00 you ever spent . From there it is a simple matter to adjust the SUs . Tec articles cover this step by step . If you cannot find the info , post another thread for how to info . Information . The first 3 years of z production had SUs the fourth year '73 and '74 had emission carbs that were not a good addition for the Z . But all were carbed engines . From '75 on all are injected , and are 280s . Gary

Length wise they should be the same . It depends on the U joints . Look at them and if they look the same as yours . there is a change that was made but I am not sure if it was in '75 or '76 . I have a R-200 in my '73 240 and am using the same 240 half shafts . Gary

Welcome to the web site . You will get a better response if you provide some more info . What year Z are you driving . Are you just changing like for like ? or you going to be going from a 4 speed to 5 speed . this sort of thing . Gary