beandip

When you find a source let us all know.

when I bought my R-200 and M. bar. It came with a new set of urethane bushings. The PO had removed the sleeve inside the perch and the bushing was loose to the point that it would fall out if I just inserted them and held the Bar. Someone had posted in this site to just go to the parts store and buy a small length of tail pipe the right dia. , cut it to length and tap it in. It has been in place now for 4+ years . Just passing on some info. Gary

I can't see me taking my car into the local second hand tire shop in a converted gas station to save money. Also I realise that a business that is selling tires will charge extra to mount a set of tires that they didn't sell. I would do the same if it were me. This is logical and a sound business practice. I want them computer balanced and done right. So far I haven't found a tire dealer that has the Sumitomo HTR H4 . When I do most likely I will buy a set. I have found a installer that will mount and balance for $18.00 ea. Tire Rack wants $46.00ea + shipping $38.00 = $102.00 ea. And what Arne said I cant expect the dealer that didn't sell me the tires to represent me if I have a issue with the tires. This is what I was alluding to when I posted to gogriz91. To look at the total picture. Just like the guy selling H-4 headlights on EBay for $9.99 + shipping. Yeah the shipping is $38.00. When I finally have my tires installed I will post it. Gary

I also have been shopping on line as well. Someone had posted that you could take the tires to a local Costco and they would mount and balance. NOT TRUE , I went there yesterday and asked and absolutely not. I have found what I want for tires on line , but by the time you add shipping and what is charged for mounting and balancing it is hardly worth the trouble. That is so far. If you come up with a good alternative pass it on. I found Falkins and Sumitomo tires for 45 to $46.00 but by the time the dust clears and you drive down the road. you are looking at $375.00 to $390.00 for a set. Maybe more if the installer charges extra for mags. Gary

The numbers indicate the hardness of the bolt. The higher the number the harder the steel. Be sure all the threads are clean before assembly for anything that you are going to torque down. Any dirt or rust will cause a false reading. What was mentioned about misalignment is a possibility , have you run a tap into the threads. I haven't heard of a misalignment problem before. If your Z is a '70 or '71 I know the ball joints are different from what is available now. I don't know if this is what you are finding. Arne and recently went through this I believe. Gary

One thing this could be from is a vacuum advance not working properly. If you have a timing light , use it and run the RPM up a little. Then disconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum diaphragm and see if it changes the advance. Another way is to remove the dist cap and suck on the rubber vacuum hose while looking down into the dist . you should see the breaker plate move about 3/16 or so, put your tongue over the hose and hold the vacuum. If there is a leak you will know it . if so replace the diaphram. I could be one of the sensors on your injection , I frankly don't know injection. But I do know ignition fairly well. Gary I may not use the correct terminology all the time but my cars run great. I have been into cars for over 50 years and have never heard of ''afterfire''. Gary

I WISH TO APALIGISE , to moonpup. I misspelled his name in this posting . It was unintentional and was not meant as a flame. Gary

moonpoop, why are you surprised ? This has always been his thing. Ask a question the disagree with the answer and debate on and on and on. Pull up any of his threads that he has started from the past and you will see what I mean. Not much substance , just allot of debate. Gary

put some anti-seize on the threads this way you wont damage the head pulling them when the engine is hot. run the engine , drive it for 10 min. at least then pull the plugs . Checking the plugs on a engine that was started and shut down cold wont tell you much of anything. I think from what all you are saying the oil rings are not doing there job. Previous post recommended adding ATF to each cylinder and let the engine set for a couple of days . See if this will help to loosen them up. I cant remember , did you change the oil before you are doing all of this?

I think there will be a good turnout. I posted it on My club email roster. Gary

I have a chrome badge with a large Z in the center surrounded by black and across the top it has in small lettering fairlady Z I know it is not anything original but I do like the look. I would prefer a oval badge and am going to bring it up at our next club meeting and see it our members would want a badge that is exclusive to our club. We have over 50 members now and the quantity might make them affordable. I am not a goo gaa kind of guy and I favor the ''less is more'' for my Z. But I do like a small oval badge if done simply. Gary

Could this Z have a automatic trans by chance? If she does check the vacuum line where it connects to the intake manifold. If you see any sign of oil there in the line . You have a bad vacuum module, or control. They are just a diaphragm that controls the shifting and when they fail they can allow ATF to flow up the vacuum line into the intake. If you have a bad one and change it yours self. There is a small little pin that sticks out of the fitting. Before you install the module put a little grease on the pin to hold it in place when you screw it in the trans. Gary

I seem to remember the 912s but if I recall correctly they were not rated H and were of a harder compound for mileage. I don't care about extended mileage or wet weather use, but desire the softer compound. Thanks for the heads up and I will look into these . Gary

I know how that goes. After finally getting to this point you get anxious to paint. This is the point where you can make of brake the job . Do take the time to do it right . If you cut corners in the prep you will be sorry later. I must say here that I don't claim to be an expert painter by any means. I have done it and worked through the entire process more than once and with good results . But others I am sure are far better at this than I. POR, I do know that stuff. Gary

I found that lead worked well at least so far. It's only been 3 yrs. since we painted the car. ''Back in the day'' when I was in my youth and worked as a driver in a Body shop. All that was used was brass and lead. Around '59 Bondo came out. Many body men wouldn't use it at all for a long time . But in order to be able to compete they were forced to go to Bondo. I used some lead on my Z as filler. Care must be taken because the sheet metal is so thin and the heat will warp the metal if not done correctly. Scanlon brazed the holes that the PO had drilled in the metal and filled with bondo, which allowed the moisture to rust the panel. I found that lead solder with a large soldering iron and NON ACID flux worked fine to fill small areas that couldn't be worked out. With either brass or lead as well as bondo preparation is extremely important. Maybe EScanlon will jump in here on this. Gary

If your engine was a zx block it would have F-54 in the casting of the block. just below the top of the block on the left side, by #6 cylinder , and stock would have a P-79 or P-90 head.

I have been going over and over this for my Z for some time. I have decided on a tire that is rated for H performance and has a softer rubber compound that I desire for stopping and cornering. I am running a 14'' turbine mag that the car was delivered with from the dealer in '73 and I want to keep them. Falken ZIEX ZE 512 205/60 R14 88H seem to fit the bill. In my estimation . They are not a high mileage tire but my Z is not a daily driver, and this is not a concern to me. 15,000 miles of use will give me three years of driving worst case scenario. My 2cts. Gary

When the car was built new, it was without a overflow bottle. It was simply recommended to run the coolant down 1'' from the top of the tank when cold. If this is done you should not have any coolant spilling out on the ground. I have been running this way since I have owned my Z and with zero heating problems. My 2cts. Gary

I agree and have done so my self. Gary

Art, I agree that the return line is an important item to retain , especially in the warmer climates. Along with this issue, I believe that having a safety shut off on the pump in the event of a accident or oil pump failure . I have installed a simple pressure switch by adding a tee at the oil sending unit. This switch activates the fuel pump as soon as there is 6 lbs. oil pressure. I have also added a inertia switch on the same circuit . This way if I am incompasitated in a accident the pump will not keep pumping. The engine starts on the fuel in the carbs with no problem, and has after the Z has wintered over . The switches have been in place for about 3 years now. I am running only electric , and it is a pump from a 1980 RX-7 . It supplies right at 5 psi. with plenty of flow. Gary

I have seen soda blasting done but not dry ice. I did sand blasting my self on my Z and it was a real mess. I blew sand out of every crack and cranny for months afterward. Either of the other methods would be a better alternative. The City uses soda blasting to remove painted lines on the streets. No clean up and they don't need to worry of damaging the cars passing by . It doesn't remove any of the surface of the black top either. I have been told sand blasting peens the metal and effects the hardness causing it to be more brittle. I have no experience with this my self , but just passing on information. Gary

The four causes for uneven movement of the piston are. Dirt or buildup on the piston causing it to rub in the cylinder. Uneven air flow between carbs due to unbalanced setting . misaligned needle to nozzle setting, causing the needle to contact the nozzle. The dampener springs are no longer matched, the large spring that contacts the piston inside the dome. If you have cleaned off the vacuum piston and its cylinder, and the needle alignment is correct and there is no rubbing , the balance if the air flow is set correctly. Providing the engine it's self is in good order. It only leaves the springs and of course he oil in the dampeners which should always be the same viscosity. 20w preferred. I would be vary surprised to learn the unbalance is due to uneven wear as you mentioned. I would think that the engine would suffer a lean condition if running on one carb for such a long time, and I would defiantly do a compression check. Which might be a good thing anyway. Gary

Hi Ed, The tinting regulations vary from state to state. SUV's and Trucks fall into a different category here in Oregon and they can be darker than cars. I don't think that there is any point fighting the ticket, if the tint is in violation . That is cut and dried. Gary