beandip

What year Z was this ? I completely replaced my entire wiring in my '73 and there was no relay on the pump circuit. My build date is 8/73 However there is now. But this is a different issue. Gary

Last Friday there were 9 240Z on Portland Craig's list from $800 to 12K but the bulk were in your price range and looked good. At least from the pictures. EScanlon and my self have looked at a few for members interested in the past and evaluated them for them. I would do this if you are truly interested in a car . Otherwise don't waist my time. I did help one member from Ark. ship a '70 parts car back to his state.

The ALL Z AND TRUCK I am referring to is in Gresham Oregon.

BINGO! Now find the short. Some where back from the switch to the brake lights.

Depending on he off set of your rims you can have problems clearing the front valance and or the suspension with the 225s. Plus the tire starts looking like a bagle if the rim is to narrow. Sumitomo has 205/60-14s and I am fairly sure they also have the 215s as well. There HTR H4 being H rated Tire Rack has them for $46.00. Just depends on what you are looking for. Soft rubber or high mileage. This has been my delima and the two I am choosing from are the Sumito's or Falken ZIEX ZE 512 R14 88H . I am strongly leaning toward the Sumito's Gary

I have been mulling this around in my head most of the day. This is out of left field but check your PVC valve. Wash it out is some thinner and make sure it is not sticking open. If you have a big vacuum leak like this you wont be able to control the idle. In your first post you said that at 800 rpm to 3K it was smooth but when you drove, putting the engine under load, there was loss of power. This sounds more like timing , like being to retarded. Backing up here. When you first bought the Z , and before you started doing anything to it. How was it running? You added the ZX dist.? Is this when the problems started? You went over the carbs, is this when the problems began? I am just trying to find a correlation between what has been done and the problem at hand. Incidentally the markings on the timing indicator show up to 20 degrees BTDC , as was stated the markings are 5* apart. Now if all of these problems started when the new dist was installed then there may be a problem with the centrifugal advance . A broken spring or something like this. What weight oil is in the carb dampeners? Not knowing what all has been done since the problem started and or prior to it going on makes this difficult to figure out. I could be a combination of things. If the carbs are balanced and the mixture is set correctly and you assembled them correctly as you stated . Just another thought , connect the timing light and watch what the advance does from idle as you slowly raise the RPM. See if it is a smooth transition. Gary

In this regard of availability. We just had this discussion at our last Club meeting . What the individuals that are in the Z business were saying baisically is this. With the value of metals what they are , and the high cost of real estate for wrecking yards. The older cars are being crushed at a increasing rate. Therefore the supply of used parts is drying up quickly. The discussion was not only for here in Oregon but California as well. It's only been about three years ago when All Z closed and crushed about 200+Z as well as a huge supply of engines and assorted parts. The value of the land overshadowed , for the owners, the value of what they destroyed. This was here in Portland, Gary

What is the budget ? I am afraid that if you are looking to find a workable/savable 240Z for much under $1000.00 will be rare. Of course there will be exceptions to this. Usually those of us with Zcars , that find these exceptions pick them up . Since the 240s are becoming in as shorter supply daily, the prices have gone up . Where 5 years ago it was common here in Oregon , to find a drivable 240Z for $500.00 now the same cars are selling for over double that figure. I find that those that have these cars that want to sell them approach me and my fellow Z drivers with these cars for sale from time to time. I have two friends that now own several of these 240s. If your plan is to find a project car to bring back to a good driver. I recommend that you find the most rust free and complete car you can. Rust repair is vary expensive and can and will run into the thousands of dollars if it is done correctly. Completeness is important if you care if the Z remains rather stock , or looking stock. Bumpers, dashes, interior and such. These items at present are still available at after market sources but the costs can be substantial. You should be able to find a good candidate for around 3K. At least here in my neck of the woods. Gary

Because the pump is only regulated by the ignition switch the pump will run as long as the ignition is turned on. Therefore if for some reason you have a accident and or fire , if you do not turn off the switch the pump will continue to pump fuel. It is a vary simple mod to add a pressure switch into the circuit that will only activate the pump when there is oil pressure. This way if the engine stops or the oil pump fails the flow of fuel will stop. Also there is a inertia switch available that would do the same thing if you have a wreck. You will find the in-line fuse , EScanlon mentioned, on the passenger side just below the dash and close to the console . There is a bundle of wires there. Gary

Just for information . I have replaced the L-24 engine in my 240 with a 280ZX and I used the larger ZX fan as well . I ran with the OEM 240 radiator up until a couple of years ago with no problem, at any RPM levels . I am now running with a 280Z radiator and nothing has changed with the clearances with the fan. I defer to Stephen and I think he is on the right track here. Gary

Contact zsonthebrain he builds a wiring up grade that takes the amp load away from the fuse block and puts it in a relay . It will save the combo switch as well as cause the dash lights and tail lights to be brighter. It is a simple plug in connect it up modification. The combo switch has become a vary expensive item now because of the short comings of the OEM wiring that is now 35 yrs old. It is important to check and clean all the contacts for the tail lights and marker lights as well. Corrosion causes high resistance which in turn heat. Dave also builds the headlight wiring upgrade as well as the part used to switch from a external regulated alternator to a later model internal regulated one . Do a search and you will find a ton of info. on this . Gary

Contact Steve Epperly at ZTherapy he had a couple I was told.

I have a color tune and have played with it . It is a helpful tool. You could use more than one I suppose . I use mine on #2 and #5 usually. You can see the flame color from idle on up to about 3K. Not recommended to go higher. I bought mine on line from a Lotus Parts dealer in Pa. about 7 years ago for about $45.00 .www.rdent.com After using it a few times and seeing how the engine runs at the different settings I usually set the carbs by feel and when I check the mixtures they have been on. I loaned it out to a couple of Z drivers and one of them broke one of the parts and didn't tell me. I can still use it but it stays home now. the best tool is one of the old Sun Machines that was used for years. testing the out put from the exhaust is the best . Gary

Here in the States unlike Oz. the 260Z was for only one year, 74. after that Nissan produced the 280Z until '79 then the ZX with a different block but still a 280. So you have several years of the 260Z in OZ and I am sure there are differences but I am not knowledgeable with them. Gary

I don't think it is ignition but could be . I am thinking carburetion. When you went through the SUs did you set or alter the float levels? If they are set to high you could get a rich mixture that you cant control with the mixture adjustment, under the carb. Try this , with the engine at idle and the air cleaner opened up exposing the intakes. Use your finger and lift a vacuum piston in the throat of one of the SUs and see how it effects the idle. If the engine continues to run as before then the opposite carb is too rich. Then do this with the second carb. If the engine dies when the vacuum piston is lifted , this means the other carb is set too lean. So to recap you lift the piston of one carb , this disables that carb, causing the engine to run on the second one . You should vary quickly tell if you have a vary rich setting. When I bought my Z the PO had one set lean, one rich, and my timing was set 10# retarded. By the way with the ZX ignition set the timing at 15*BDC if you haven't yet. I would like to hear what you find. Gary:rambo:

justin, as long as the needle valves are not leaking it doesn't matter if these are different is size. We hare talking about the float shutoffs. There are different styles some have a little brass stopper with a rubber seat. I have seen some made out of glass. As long as the valves stops the flow of fuel when it is supposed to , this is all that matters. Nozzles and needles in the carb body , this is a whole different matter.

WingZro , you have Les Schwab Tire Stores down in Dago? I bought my set that look just like yours, only I went for powder coated gloss black. Mine have a bolt that is in the center of the hub and the spinner screws on to it. then there are three small allen set screws that you tighten down so the Spinner cannot come off , they are hidden from view. Mine are metal not plastic and they come in either chrome or black. I have been running mine for 7 yrs now, and have had no problems. Obviously I like the look or I wouldn't have them on my Z. To each his own. Gary

In Oregon or Washington if you are not wearing the shoulder strap the fine is over $100.00 . If you have either the lap belt and or the shoulder belt loose and you get into a accident where they were needed . Your injuries will be far greater. In my '73 , I used '75 280Z shoulder belt retractors . They bolt on in the same place the original belts did, and they work great. You need to use the 280 belt with the early metal clip so it will attach to the lap belt. This way both belts retract and you are free to tune the radio or reach the window crank or what ever. I don't feel restricted by the belt at all, but any sudden movement froward it will lock up and stop forward movement. For the Zs with out the pocket in the floor for the lap belt retractors I have been told to look for a 2+2 front seat belt retractors that they bolt on to a flat floor. I haven't seen them but this is what I have been told. Gary

Weasel73, First off the intake on the engine right now is a vary good intake. Leave it on and just remove the flat tops . Like all before me here save the old emissions parts. If ever you want to bring the car back to original you will need the stuff. As Escanlon said just zip lock the stuff and put it away. Find a good set of SUs , either 4 screws or 3 screws. Either will work the same. At the same time pick up a early air cleaner and heat shield. '70-'72 vintage. You will also need the thicker insulators that go between the SUs and the intake also the linkage that goes between the SUs. the flat top linkage is a different length. Gary

I hope you neutrilized the acid before you shot the primer. Looks to be in good shape. Good save. Gary

If you decide to do the spindle pin bushings. I have a puller that saves a ton of frustration and makes the job much easier. At the moment they are both out on loan. I have them to loan out to members. I only ask that you pay the shipping costs, $9.00 each way, and return the puller when finished. Gary:)

I replaced mine when I changed to a R-200 and actually my old one was still in vary good shape and I could have used it over again. Since I already had the new one in hand installed it . I think either would be just fine . I agree with Arne the newer mount looks to be stronger that's another reason I went with it. v8-240z , the maker of the spindle pin puller , also has a limiter that will stop the diff from lifting upon hard acceleration. This eliminates the need for the straps over the pumpkin. Gary

Karma is a bitch.

Just one more thing. If you don't have any starter fluid. Spray some WD-40 into the intake of the air cleaner. About a 10 second shot and then see if she will fire start. If she does or tries to run you know it is not spark related but fuel.

When you suck on the hose put your tongue over the end and will it hold vacuum? If the vacuum escapes then it is the diaphragm that is bad. this is the silver thing that the hose is connected to. If the vacuum does NOT escape and the breaker plate will not budge then the fault is inside the Dist. . Usually if the vacuum advance stops working it only causes a loss of power when you apply throttle but the engine won't quit running. It will just stumble and then recover. After the engine RPM are up past 1000 the mechanical advance is taking over . On the SUs, where the fuel line connects to the carb. there is a fitting that looks like a ''banjo'' . there is a small vary fine screen in there that could be partially blocked. Since the PO has already done the tank and added a filter before the electric pump , look to these little screens as a possible cause. I think the problem is fuel related. Gary