beandip

First of all be sure to remove all the tar matt from the floor. Then you will have a view of the metal and can evaluate it. match size holes can be repaired with POR matt and Paint. If you follow the instructions from the maker. Zedd Findings has new floor pans , his are the best out there if this is what is needed. The rust on the low part of the fenders most likely is rust out coming from the back. This area is also the beginning of the rocker . If there is rust through there then the rocker is involved and likely the dog leg as well. I had the same problems on my Z and had to replace the passenger side pan and welded in patches on the driver side . There were a few little holes that I repaired with POR . I used POR over almost all the floor both inside and under the car. Gary

''T'' That was what I was finding. Tires that have at least a ''H'' rating in a 14'' tire are few. zbane did you check on 205/60 X 14'' or 215/60 X 14 Sumitomo's?

I was a LA-City Fireman for 22 yrs and I am telling you . Just because you live in suburbia surrounded by other homes there is no guarantee that you are safe. The big thing is wood shingle roofs , that and if there are debris in the rain gutters . Take all patio furniture with pads and put them in the garage. With the wind and low humidity it there is a structure a mile away on fire you can be in grave danger from blowing embers. When they show the firemen spraying water on the roofs of burning buildings under these conditions. They are just trying to knock down the embers flying in the air off he roof. I was on the Bel-Air fire that swept through Bel-Air , Brentwood and ran to the beach. The fire crossed the gap of the San Diego freeway more than a quarter mile like it wasn't there. They are recording wind gusts over 100 miles an hour. This is some heavy duty stuff down there. People are going to die. Way back when before the area was settled. The Indians would light the area on fire before they left to go north for the summer . They called the wind Santana ''devil wind'' . Some where along the way the name morphed in to Sana Anna. Gary

Personally I like the valve cover and SUs domes polished, the block OEM blue and the aluminum head and intake brushed bright with a fine wire brush or polished. The engine bay in all cases the body color of the car. Pulleys and lines OEM or painted silver or black. Unless the car is original or nearly so . If that is the case then I agree with Arne. Gary

If you want to run a K & N filter in the OEM air cleaner box the number is E-2910

Jack the front end up with both front wheels off the ground. Grasp the wheel front to rear and see if there is any play, looseness, and do this to both front wheels. Then do the same grasping top to bottom. the first one will show loose tie rods the second the ball joints. If you do feel movement look under and see if you can see where the play is. If the wheel bearings are loose , this will also show play from both tests. If you suspect the wheel bearings , just remove the dust cover and see if there is play there. If the wheels were out of balance it wouldn't happen just when turning, the same with out of round tires. If there was a tire separating this a different issue , maybe. Check the things I mentioned while the car is up off the ground. Gary

Sounds like the switch is the problem

I am running a OEM ZX coil and am happy with the results.

She looks great in he pictures. Personally I wouldn't buy a car on eBay unless I could look it over, or have a knowledgeable Z person take a hard look for me, and give a unbiased evaluation. Gary

This a difficult question to answer, because the value differs greatly depending on where you live. 6 to 8K here on the Left coast will buy a vary nice 240Z . What is clean nice Z to one person is not a good buy to another. 100% rust free car will bring a premium price. Again I have looked at ''rust free'' Zs and found plenty of rust. A Z that has just been painted is a red flag , because so much can be hidden that will show up soon. Gary

From the little I can see from the pictures she doesnt look bad. As what was stated , look closely for rust . This cannot be stressed more. It is the biggest enemy of a Z. Also the costly to repair properly. Below the Battery and just forward of the doors , down low at the bottom of the fenders. Just to the rear of the doors down low in front of the wheels , ''dog leg''. When you look at the floors, check from under the Z, as well as under the carpet. The two ends of the hatch sill where the water drains down the channel of the hatch on each side, is a area to look closely at. Water tends to collect and puddle on the sill . If the seller has the bumpers and mounting hardware you should get it. Even if you don't think you will run them. Some insurance Co. require them. Plus they are not easy to find and are not cheap. All the best . Gary

I removed mine that were riveted. One thing you do not want to do is to fill the holes with filler like bondo or icing . That stuff is porous and will allow moisture to travel in from the back side and rust the panel. the holes must be sealed with braze, lead solder or something similar. I used solder as I was preping to paint. You are going to find that the selection of 240Z are going to be limited and as time goes on even more so. First and foremost look for a Z that is the most rust free and complete as you can find. With a good car to start with the rest will be MUCH less costly and easier to work with . On a scale of 1 to10 the side molding is a 1 on difficulty . In the over all picture not a big deal compared to the rest of the project on even a vary clean 240. Gary

Dave has the up grade head light harness that is a plug in and play. Uses all Nissan plugs. It takes the load off the old wiring and uses relays . I am running H-4s 90- 100s and it handles the added Amperage great and the fuse block is not ever warm. Reduces the load to about 5 amps to the combo switch. He also has a harness that does the same for the tail lights and dash lights. All are about 30% brighter. Gary

goose52 this is what I do also. I have had one of these fail before and since then I keep the spare in the glove compartment. So far I have accumulated 5 of them and so far the counter guy at the u-pull-it hasn't charge me anything for them. I know of a method of enabling us to use the later versions of these with good results. I just replaced one for a friend on her Z and thought I would see if some one was rebuilding them. Sooner or later the supply will dry up. Just like all the rest of the 240z parts have. I have a couple of the 12 80s that are bad and if there is someone rebuilding them I would look into having them done. hls30 a life time ago I worked for a company that built guidant systems for our countries missiles , some of the components were encapsulated in epoxy just for that vary reason, so they could not be taken apart and copied. We were building the prototypes, so I know what you mean. Gary:rambo:

My '73 was missing the clip and actually I didn't know that there ever was one. I used a small black Zip tie as a solution . One thing if the cable is not secured and you are running headers the cable can come in contact with it and it will burn the outer cable. Don't ask. this is why I have the Zip tie now. Gary:rambo:

Have you tried some anti-fog like the snow skiers use on goggles? It comes in a spray. I have used it on rifle scopes in the past with good results , but not on a car window. Just a thought. Gary

I have searched the archives and came up empty. I have a 12-80 ignition module that has stopped working . I have read some where that there was a shop, I think in Cal., that rebuilds them. Does any one know of this place or any other that does this? For what the darn things cost I would think that there would be someone doing this. :cross-eye Gary

Welcome to our little slice of heaven. Good luck in you quest for a 240Z , as geezer says the shipping cost could be substantial especially from the West coast. You might consider , if you can afford it , finding a Z in the condition to drive it back home. With the winter upon us looks like next spring for your area. Gary

Good question. I have been using white lube for years for this type of application and many others . I haven't noted any smell and it stays put. I use the same stuff on the friction points for the drum brakes where the shoes contact the backing plates. Gary

lower your window.

Looks like you may be able to do away with the door glass altogether. Just kidding. If you are a smoker I can see that they would be a good addition. They look like there well made. Gazza

Stacy , I am so sorry to hear of your loss and we miss him as well. All the best to you . Gary:cry:

I have seen your car . Were you on the cruse to Mary's peak? Gary

I have a '73 240 that I have installed the R-200 with the 240 half shafts . I have right about 16K on it since I installed the diff. No problen so far. I don't use the car on the track but have done plenty of spirited driving in the mountains and all is good . Gary:laugh:

Dustin, welcome to our little corner of the world. Like Arne said there are several of us infected by the virus here in Or. I also have a '73 but have done what I want , mostly , with my Z. Congrats. on the ''new'' car and unfortunately you are now infected and there is no cure. you are fortunate in that it took me over 30 years to acquire my Z. Gary