beandip

Jim I know you were involved with the hinges on your Z and I remember that the series 1 had different hinges than the later Zs. Do you know if the hinges on a early 280 will fit the later 240s. Gary

Welcome to the Club. It's exciting to starting the project. One thing I didn't do and wished I had. Is to pressure wash the engine and under the car before I started. I had thought of almost everything else. I recommend taking lots of pictures as you disassemble and reassemble the Z. I started with a film camera , and finally bought a digital. If you don't have Wick Hubble's book Restoring your 240 Z , it will be a good source of info for you. And a supply of PB Blaster and better yet Kroil . Great for removing rusted bolts. A container of anti seize for when you are reassembling the car. All the best . Gary:)

Just change the flat tops for round top SUs , install a 280ZZX dist and coil. She will perform as well as the '70-'72. Both things are easily changed back to OEM for a show . In my case I removed all the emissions add ons. The '73 got a bad rap because of the flat top carbs. I also changed the front bumper to a 240 euro. Another thing that can easily be changed back. The '70 -'71 are about 300 lbs lighter than the '73. thinner sheet metal and less weight in the emissions add ons. The block , crank and pistons are the same. Compression is lower, emissions again. If you are doing a Restoration you most likely will not be driving the car anyway. If doing a refresh, that is a different story. I did a complete refresh on my '73 and installed a '82ZX engine, lowered the rear end gear ratio a little. Went with euro stage 1 springs and lowered the car overall about 2'' or so. Kept the SUs and painted her the color I liked . I did the car for me, how I wanted it. So it all depends on what your intentions are for the car. We are here to help where we can . All the best to you. Gary

Since your ''mechanic'' wont touch the Carbs, and the engine is not running . It could be a number of things . First of all has this Z been setting for a long time? If so you may just have gunk in the fuel system . Change the fuel filters , they may be clogged. Again , if the engine has been non running for a long time the rings could be the problem , however , squirt some ATF into the spark plug holes . Like about a teaspoon full in each one , and with the plugs out turn the engine over and let her set for overnight. I am assuming the oil and filter has been changed already. Do you have flat top carbs or round Tops, SUs? If flat tops, replace them with the earlier round top SUs. Do a compression test again after the oil has set overnight and see what it is. Auto Zone and several other parts stores will loan you a tester. Harbor Fright has them for around $15.00. Usually if the engine has overheated the head suffers and could be warped , or the block could be cracked. If the block is cracked , it is junk now. As to the numbers matching thing, if you alter the Z with a 5 speed or other mods the car is no longer original any way. Keep the intake manifold but you will need the linkage that fits between the carbs if you do the carb change. Keep us in the loop on what you find. All the best. Gary

This is a vary old thread. 2004 !

I used the door lights found on a Nissan Maxima four door Sedans they are mounted on the doors there. They are flat and mount to the kick panels vary well and illuminate the foot wells , 1 1/2 X 3''and about 1/4'' thick with frosted lenses. I used the same lights and mounted them in the back on the access panels to the tail lights. All illuminate when the doors are opened or the over head light is lit. There are factory wires already in each foot well tucked up above the kick panels. I have a '73 240 . Gary

I paid less for OEM cylinders

I just received a sale catalog from Motorsport they have the weatherstrip kit on sale for $224.95 Gary

Nissan still has the wheel cylinders for the '73 240Z . I recently bought a set. I don't know about the earlier Zs. Gary

Welcome to the Club. Check your other thread , I answered you with the information on the gasket information. Your English is fine and no problem to us. I couldn't come close to converse in your language. If we can be of help just let us know. Gary

I agree if the Z has the original engine and is as you say , the Z has more value than if you do the v-8 swap. Now of course it depends on how deep you are into the Z. I have seen several Zs for sale that already have V-8s installed for not much money in comparison to unmolested cars. Keep in mind , a collector that would be doing a restoration wants a all numbers matching car and one that is mostly all stock. They are going to completely disassemble the whole car from one end to the other. So paint is usually not a issue , rust is though big time. If the cars is a #s matching and rust free or almost so It would be a good candidate. My 2cts. Gary

Carlos. Motorsport has the engine overhaul gasket set # 10-2402 $109.95 The gasket set for the whole car , except engine, 34-2000 $249.95 These prices are without shipping costs. Black Dragon may be another sorce. Motorsport's address is www.zcarparts.com Gary

Hi Carlos, are you looking for a set of gaskets for your engine or the whole car?

This fuse link is an important part of the electrical system . I have seen 240 Zs wired with regular 10ga wire and even single strand wire that is used to wire a home. That is eliminating any safe guard to some important stuff under the dash. I am saying this for the benefit of our new members that may not know that there is a fusible link and how important it is. Gary

bjhines, What you are saying may be true . I can only attest to my 8/73 240 Z. My Z is and has been running with a electric fuel pump only for more than the 8 years I have owned it. The pump is connected to all the factory wiring and would run as long as the ignition switch was either in the start detente or the run detente. This is why I added a pressure switch in the circuit to denergize the fuel pump if there is less than 5 lbs oil pressure. I have had this Z completely disassembled and reassembled by my self and I haven't found any relay control for the pump. I am not saying that you are wrong , just that at least on my late '73 this is the case. I have only owned the car for 8 years . It is a possibility that the other items have been removed by a PO. However , One other thing , I replaced the entire wire harness when I was doing the project. Gary

rtaylor. Thank you vary much for the offer. I was able to come up with the correct part number on my club's Microfiche and was able to order a few from Nissan. Being they are not that expensive and are a must have , if you blow one . I ordered 4 The part number if any one wants one is 24022 E8200 This is for a '71- 7-73 I don't remember the month for the '71. From 8-73 there are two different part numbers 24161 28500 or 24161 A0100 these two have different amp values. It may be due to the different alternators used , I don't know. Taylor again thanks for the offer. Gary:)

A friend just blew his fusible link . The local parts store has some but they don't have model specific info . Does anyone know the amp value for the fusible link for a '71 240 Z ? I did a search but no joy. Thanks in advance . Gary

hotrod , the rust that you see just rear of the doors down low , we refer to as the doglegs. This is a RED flag and could be vary expensive to repair . Vary likely it extends forward along the rocker , frame rail, forward to the front fender. there is no frame in these cars , all sheet metal uni-body. Look closely in these areas under and inside the car. If you can weld or have access to someone that will do the work , this can be of great help.

The '73 Z came factory with the electric pump and mechanical. If you live in warm climate like Cal or Az the electric will help to eliminate the problem referred to as vapor lock. The mechanical pump heats from conducted transfer from the head, this can contribute to the problem. The engine will run fine with either or both pumps. Some aftermarket electric pumps are vary noisy . This is why I like the RX-7 pump because it delivers plenty of volume and no more than 5 psi. Just be sure it is a NON injected RX. My engine now is a '82ZX still with SUs, and it supplies my application vary well. The P-79 head does not accept a mechanical pump in any event. My friend a few years back was running triples on a stroker , we tried a RX pump on his Z and it supplied it just as well. One thing though use a in line filter between the tank and pump, it will save the pump if there is crud in the tank. My friend recently had his mechanic install a new Nissan mechanical pump, $125.00 for the pump. Gary If your filters are not collecting crud , don't bother pulling the tank.

This is where I mounted the retractor for the shoulder belt. Where the old belt bolted on. the '75 retractor is rather small , about the size of a hardball. Gary

How about the largest screen was a 6'' then they sold a large magnifying glass that you put in front of the screen so you could look at a distorted picture from about 10 feet. My brother and Mon and Dad used to bring folding chairs and joined a bunch of neighbors in front of the appliance store and watch the TV in the store window. Morgan built a great roadster with a wooden frame. Vary collectible now. Our cars then required oil changes every 1000 miles ! Gary

I have a '73 z and am running a electric pump only and have been for 8 years. I am using a RX-7 pump and it runs great with it. U-pull-it $10.00. Now your '73 is wired for the pump , however it will run as long as the key is in the run position , and of course also in the start position. As a safety measure I added a pressure switch at the oil sender that powers the fuel pump at 5 psi. This way if I crash or have a oil pump failure the gas will stop flowing. Cheap and easy to do. When starting the engine, it starts on the fuel in the carbs then the gas flows. I have let the Z set over winter and she started fine with out my having to bridge the wires at the pressure switch , which you would need to do if you ran our of gas. I have a gear drive starter but don't think it spins the engine enough to pressurize the oil to 5 to 7 lbs and switch the pump on. 5 to 9 lbs is too much pressure for the SUs to handle. Your problems with the Therapy carbs is likely caused by flooding the float shut offs. 5 psi is on the high side of max.

I remember the x rays at Mother Goose Shoes. And I was the first one on the block with a reverb. Ha ha. My second car had a foot activated starter the floor switch for Hi beams, and a rumble seat. How about car hops on roller skates at the Drive in. A car with a automatic trans was really rare. A heater in the car and radio were extras. Gary

Barth , Freddie's has the paint.