beandip

Is the hub that bad that you cannot simply replace the bearings and the seal? If it is I suspect the Axel as well. Gary

Also there is supposed to be a little hole in the flat disk part. This hole is to go on the upper side when it is set in place. This will allow the air to pass though and not to collect and keep the water from opening the stat. Especially when first starting after a total coolant drain.

One thing you can look for . Look under your car at the diff mount. Nissan added a metal plate that is about 1/2'' thick and almost 5'' square to help with this problem. Check and see if you still have one there. Over the years someone could have just left it off. Other than that I cannot help you, I haven't experienced the problem my self . With the drive shaft. Someone else I am sure will jump in . Gary

One thing that will cause a stumble when coming off idle is if you are using ATF or similar thin oil in the carbs . This causes a lean mixture just coming off idle. Switch to 20wt and this will eliminate this . You may have other things going on but this will help a lot. ATF is 5wt too thin. The light oil causes the vacuum piston of the dampener to rise quickly. This is the opposite of what the dampener is designed to do. Gary

use a 1/2'' drill for a spacer.

Your Z is prewired at the factory. Just look up the harness for the sending unit at the tank. You will find two wires taped with blue tape ,green is hot black is ground. Next to the console where it meets the dash on the passenger side , you will find a in line fuse . Green wire is the hot. Now I doubt the mechanical pump is your problem. When fuel pumps fail it is usually first noticed when the engine is at higher RPM or when pulling a grade. Have you balanced your carbs and adjusted the mixture. Sounds to me your engine is running lean and the carbs are not balanced. I have been running a electric RX-7 fuel pump for years . They put out 5 psi and enough to supply a set of triples on a stroker. $15.00 at the local u-pull-it. Silent also, just make sure it is a pump for a carbed engine, not injected. You can run both pumps if you wish. The electric is a pusher pump. It must be mounted back by the gas tank. Gary

Just remember you are dealing with your life as well as others. Calipers are cheep just go to your local parts store and buy a couple of rebuilds. you won't be sorry.

Concerning gaskets, When I had my windshield installed the installer told me that there are two different brands of gaskets. One was much more plyable than the other and fit better. I had the Progressive kit for the whole car, and he said it was the best of the two. All I know it went in with out a hitch and I have been happy with the results. I have heard of installers that don't know what they are doing with these old cars . And they split the gasket and install one half the glass and then glue in the second half !!!! Don't allow this. Gary

TRtom , Stated value and agreed upon value are two different things.

I don't know if mine is what you are talking about. It is black leather and when opened and laid flat is 2 3/4'' square. It has a snap closure. so when the leather is folded over it is abut 2'' wide . It has a chrome fitting riveted inside that will hold 4 keys on metal chrome loops . there is a chromed metal disk the size of a quarter. It looks like it is filled porselen, white with a red center and a blue band across the face about 3/16'' X 7/8'' the blue is rimed in chrome and in the center of the blue band is 240 Z. The leather is black and is soft like glove leather. on the back of the fob (disk) it says Windsor made in England. I would take a picture and post it but I am computer impaired and don't know how. Gary:dead:

Your pump mounted on the engine runs as long as the engine is turning over. It might not pump gas but it must turnover because it is mechanically attached to the engine . The Electric pump. The year model you have can be set up in different ways . One the pump runs at start up , or it runs any time the key is in the start of on position when the engine is running. My '73 the pump runs at start and in the run position until I turn the key to Acc or off . How close to Cedar Mill do you live. Gary

You didn't say what year the Z is . The early 240 used a master cylinder that had the pistons reversed from what the later cars have . It is possible that the rear system is getting pressure and volume meant for the front Disk brakes which require more volume. This has happened before . I drive a '73 and mine were repositioned by a previous owner. Gary

I recently replaced both sides rear Axel bearings and used OEM from Nissan. If you can get Timken they are top notch also and may be less money. Stub axles, replace them if they are showing any side to side looseness in the splines. Other wise keep what you have. U-joints , if you have one fail on the half shafts , replace them all. Same for the u-joints on the drive shaft. If any of your present u-joints have Zerk fittings or a method to lube them . Do so about every 15K miles and they will last a long long time. If you have zerk fittings stop pumping grease into them when you see the little seal swell. If you see any grease emerge you have blown the seal and when the shaft spins the grease will be thrown out of the Joint.

First off , if the car is a 260 it is a '74, that is in the U S A , '75s are injected. Is this an injected engine or carburated? There should be a fuel filter back by the gas tank . Change it also. If this doesnt help have the fuel pump checked for flow and pressure , especially if it is a injected engine. Gary

I recently bought a set of SUs that came from Colorado . They had 58 needles, I am at nearly sea level and running a ZX on carbs and after trying different combinations ended up with 54s and the engine pulls hard and runs great. As a side note , just for kicks I went through the emission testing at the state facility and passed even though I have no emission stuff on my engine. I am running just a little rich at idle but all cleans up at fast idle , 2500 rpm. I know I am running a little rich but with no cat on this '82 zx engine and all I am surprised. they were also . So you might give the leaner 58s a shot , I found them too lean for my altitude. Gary

If you want a K & N for the origional early air cleaner '70-'72 the part number is E-2910 I ordered mine form Summit Racing. Gary

reattaching the front may be a little tricky. the cement used is contact cement, apply to both surfaces and let dry then while tacky reposition the head liner. Once the two sides touch they will stick and you wont be able to slide them at all. So it's a one shot deal. Get it right the first time. I have used 3-M # 77 spray . Sold most every ware Home Depot has it. Gary

If you have a bad connection to the Battery and adding additional load could cause the problem you describe. Check the battery cables and connections and clean them. You didn't say but is the Battery dead or discharged. Bad connections and or a Alternator that is going bad and not putting out enough and with the engine at idle for a long time could draw down a low battery even farther. As was stated the fusible link can look good when in fact it is blown. The link is a short wire of about 5'' with a connector on each end , coming from the starter to the harness across from it. Gary

I would do as Arne said. Replace the pressure plate and friction disk as a set. The throwout bearing as well. It is unlikely the old bearing will last as long as the new clutch. Pilot bearings are cheep, might as well change it also. Be sure to use a torque wrench on the pressure plate. Turning the flywheel, this is your call. If you do then everything is new, Do check the ring gear and if it has chipped teeth you might consider replacing the wheel . Gary

So as soon as there is moisture the wiper motor will not run ? Is this correct ? Does the fuse blow ? With no other information , I will offer a guess . Check the plug/connector on the firewall where the wire harness goes into the cowl to the wiper motor. Clean any corrosion , other than this it could be the combo switch . There is information , do a search on how to overhaul the combo switch. Sounds like a poor connection either power or ground , that moisture is causing further resistance causing the motor to stop. Vinegar is helpful to clean connectors. Hope this is helpful. Gary

The stock exhaust I removed from my '73 was 1 3/4'' and I am fairly sure the '72 was the same size. Gary

This should read opposite 8 to 9 volts in the run position and 12v in the start. The engine starts on 12 v and runs on 8. That is on a 240 ignition. On a ZX it is all 12v Don't remember on the 280Z. Gary

Is what you are saying is the nozzle is sticking down after you push the choke lever all the way forward? Is this correct? And it wasn't doing this before ? First thing , check the fuel hose that goes from the float bowl to the nozzle. If it is stiff or brittle replace it. If it is pliable , try giving it a little turn one way or the other . Some times the hose can put pressure on the nozzle and cause it to stick down. If the hoses in use are from a parts store , then they are too stiff. Buy these little hoses either from Nissan or ZTherapy. NEVER use vacuum hose for this because it is not formulated for gasoline and will fail. Spraying gas on a hot exhaust is not recommended . If after replacing the hoses the nozzle still sticks , try and lubricate the nozzle with anti-seize . You need to remove the nozzle to do this. If the problem continues you will need to replace the nozzle. ZTherapy has them. Gary

you cut the push rod and you cannot return it period. If you want to take a chance with your life doing a Mickey Mouse adaption on your brakes , think long and hard. I say send it back. Gary

Replacing the rear bearings depends on how many miles on the Car and or if they have been serviced (repacked) and maintained all along. I doubt the heat generated by hot brakes would have damaged the bearings.