beandip

Here we go again. Carl , don't fall for Tomo's thing. He loves to argue.

Another thing , you wont know what size bore you have until you pull the head , you may need to bore the cylinders or merely hone them. Same for the Crank . Does it need to be turned or polished. I am with Arne . Gary

To solve your problem, email Ztherapy and order a set of SUs. Sorry but there is a reason that Nissan dumped the flat tops and what you describe is it.

If you just go to the bone yard and find a RX-7 pump for a '80 car they put out 5 psi and work great . $15.00. No regulator needed.

One of the reasons I went with the 205/70X14 on the rear was for the gearing and RPM . I was running a 3.70 diff and the 205s and put the Z on a dyno and realized from that , my torque curve dictated that I was running at a too low a ratio. I have since changed to a set of 3.54s and the car is all I could want for all around performance. Plenty of low end and more than I need at the top end. I am running a 82xz engine with slight head work and a cam that comes on at 2500 to 5500 with SUs.

Years ago I had my headers coated with porcelain. Most likely this is what the others are calling the ceramic coating. Any hoo, on purpose, what I have done this time is to spray several coats of paint. High heat by dupli-color 1200* black # DH1620 It has been on my headers now for 6 years and still looks good. I went this way because the headers were used and rusted . They came with the engine. I am total impressed with how well they have lasted and absolutely no rust has appeared. I haven't had any trouble with heat , however I do have the OEM heat shield on the manifold. I have a electric fuel pump and am running SUs. Gary P. S. I haven't wrapped headers but I have read several post from members that have and they all experienced early header failure due to rust.

Jack , I am going to join in there. Arne and I have gone though this in nausea um . I did end up with a set of Stage 1 springs. However if you want to keep the stock higth remove the top circle of spring off the front. this will lower the front about 1/2 ''. I wanted my Z lower so I removed more off the new springs and it has worked great. Before that I did remove the top coil on the stock springs and it was great though not as firm as I wanted. So this is the reason I went for the new springs. I also have the KYB struts and really like the ride and performance. I recommend that you remove the top circle coil. If you remove a additional full coil you will lower a additional one inch. So each full coil expect a one inch of lowering. To a point . Hope this helps . gary

If you cannot order it from there let me know and I will see what I can do. Gary

bought all the internals from Nissan a few years ago. If I remember correctly the part comes as an assembly # 22229 This is the pickup coil . Hope this helps. Gary

I have turbines as well on my '73 . I don't know who made them but mine are not 7'' , 6'' I think. Much depends on the off set of the wheels. I went with 205/70s and they hit the lower fender extension. So I have 205/70s in the rear and 195/70X14 up front and nothing rubs. Even with vary hard cornering. One thing , my Z has been lowered a couple of inches. I am running Toyo's. She handles good , but I think the Sumitomo's that I was looking at would be a better choice. Softer rubber compound. Gary

On SUs there are vary fine screens located in the fuel line where it connects to the carb at the float. The fitting has been called a ''banjo'' fitting because of it's shape. Check and see if it is clogged. I had a car that acted like your describing and it wasn't RPM related as much as load. On the flat the car was fine but pulling any grade it would start missing and loosing power. The fuel pump was failing and could not keep up with the demand. Also check the fuel level in the float chambers, if the setting is off it can cause what you are experiencing . Gary

My Z is also a '73. What I did was to use a set of retractor solder belts from a '75 280. The retractor units attach at the same place the old ones did. The metal fitting will not attach to the lap belt of the '73 belt . So I cut the stitching and removed the metal clip form the 240 belt and did the same on the later one and took the belts to a shoe shop. They stitched the belt and 240 clip exactly where the old stitching was and you would never know it wasn't stock. I can now adjust the radio or heater and or air vents while driving without unclipping the belts. Gary

Jay, welcome to our little group. I to was into Hot Rods but much farther back . 32 Ford three window and a '56 Nomad to mention a couple. but that was many years ago. Late '50s . Yakes! You will fine the Z to be a whole different breed of cat. I bought a 240 in 2000 and have never looked back. I saved this one from the crusher. I did the work myself and she will be in the Portland Roadster Show this Feb. I have had this Z completely apart, so I most likely have experienced most things dealing with these early Z. If I can be of any help , just ask. all the best, Gary

There is no reason to remove all the paint. If it is not pealing or loose. Just sand everything smooth and wipe it down with some wax/oil remover , prime and paint.

I have the same Dist. and I did a rebuild 8 years ago on it. I have a drawing showing all the parts and there numbers. I can scan it and send it to you but I don't know how to post it here. Send me a PM with your email address and I will send it to you. If you can buy parts from Nissan at a club discount it is worth it, but paying full retail for all the parts , you might as well save your module and trade the Dist in as a core and buy a rebuilt form a parts store. If all you need is the breaker plate that is different. 8 years ago it was $45.50. Gary

By chance are you still using flat tops? I don't know what you are referring to by the choke side . SUs draw fuel from the one nozzle/needle assembly in the center of the air stream as the piston lifts. The choke is regulated by lowering the nozzle. Your description is what caught my eye here. If you have the flat tops , when you reassemble the engine I recommend that you install a set of Round Top S Us you will be glad you did. Gary

You did a great job, it looks first class. One thing though. Rattle can paint in most cases will lift if you shoot regular base and clear in the future. Just giving you a heads up. So in the event that you or someone else is going to do a color change they should be made aware of this. Gary

I have a late '73 build date 8/73 and it has the brackets also. I just looked for a early '74 for a bar. They have a sway bar that is not straight where it crosses past the Diff. the later '74 and those after are straight and will not clear. I just used the OEM rubber on mine. All the end links are the same. I use rubber only because of the road noise with the Polly. To the best of my knowledge the '74 was the first to have a rear Sway bar , at least in the U.S. Gary

I cannot help on the rail but I did replace the floor pan with Zedd Finding's floor. The floor pan was not that difficult to install . I cut out the rusted metal with my saws all. Do NOT cut the floor untill you have the replacement in hand. this way you will know how much you can remove. The replacement must be fitted in place . As good as the floor pan is it still need some tweaking. I used self taping sheet metal screws to hold it in place as I fitted it. I ended up with one screw about every 5 ''. The floor then must be welded in . I took my Z to a certified welder and he removed each screw as he went around the floor and filled the holes. When I brought the car home I prepped all bare metal and painted all with POR-15 inside and under the car. Rocker would be a bigger problem in that you are removing a major part of the structure of the Z. It could alter the alignment of the car. Someone that has done one of these could advise here. Gary:cool:

Bruce , will the Z be done in time for the upcoming Roadster show? Gary

Welcome to the club. You will find a wealth of information here . There are years of information archived and easily accessed through the search function. In any event feel free to ask away . There isn't much that hasn't been done with these Cars over the years. Good to have you aboard. Gary

I think it is a step in the right direction. To bad the financial situation here and abroad is so bad and continues to implode. The car will tank .

On the per verbal scale it should be a 3 in difficulty. You don't need to make it a big deal. Just scrub the ''wood'' part down with dish washing liquid and one of the 3M pads that are used to wash dishes. Sand the metal part to remove and feather out chips in the paint. Mask off the metal and use rattle can gloss urethane . You apply thin coats , don't try to do it with one or two thick ones. you will get runs. I usually apply about 4 or 5 over two or three days. to be safe. The more you lay on the longer to dry. When completely dry mask off the ''wood'' and spray the metal with satin black. The wheel will look as good or better than new. I agree with the others about E Bay. Check out Craig's list also. Gary

Dustin, If you ask how many Z drivers are using flat top carbs you will not find but only a vary few. There is a reason... If you have a 260 that you must keep period correct in all regards, then I can see the point. Personally if this is the case and you wish to actually drive the Z. Buy a set of round tops to drive the car and install the flat tops to show. You will be glad you did. My 2cts. Gary

Carl Beck, thanks for straighting me out on the number. I knew of the 40 set number but I was under the impression that that was in addition to the Group Buy. I would bet that another 40 sets could be sold no problem at all. Some of the Z drivers were skeptical the first time, but now with this many out here , I think they would sell quickly. Z good 1 I think I still have the numbers on the springs. I would need to dig. I remember that both rears were the same and the right and left front were different. Gary;)