beandip

I have changed so many of these things I can't count them and I have never used a torch. Just remove the retaining clip and position the yoke over the vise as stated before , and use a drift or,. as was stated before use and old socket that is just smaller than the end of the bearing cap . This will destroy the socket for further service. Place the socket on the cap and give it a good hard smack you may need to repete this several times but it will come out . It's a good idea to mark the two halves of the yoke assembly so you can reassemble in the same relationship to each other . They may have been ballanced in this configuration at the factory.:classic:

I am 100% of French blood and I am dam prowd to be an AMERICAN ! My father fought in france in WW 1 two brothers were at . Normandy one is still there. All I can say is that NO MORE, they have shown us there back side for the last time . With frends like this I dont need any enemies. They couldent or wouldent recognise Hitler for what he was and they are doing the same damn thing again, they just dont want to see the picture!

:classic: you bet I have that one and there is another '70-79 shop manual also by clymer . I found mine on e-bay . :classic:

You don't see one everyday in Portland either. In fact I have never seen a fairlady in person or a right hand drive Z for that matter. :classic:

:classic: To be absolutely honest I dont like the car, the 350Z. After saying that the reason is the basic shape . From what I have seen it performs well but in the looks dept. they copied the wrong cars. VW bug, the new one and the Audi . In my openion the Jag Roadster and the Honda 2000 and the Ford GT is what they should have been styling after. I wint to the dealer and saw the first one in the area and they were asking get this 15k over sticker and it was sold! couldent believe it. Last week end there were 4 for sale in the want adds. That has to tell you something. Siting in one I found ti to be vary comfortable and all the necessary controlls are right at hand ,the fit and finish vary well done and vary well thought out. With not enough room to carry one set of golf clubs or two overnite bags , not good. To be absolutele honest . If I took 1/3 the selling price of the 350z and put it into a average 240z I think I would have a much nicer looking car and one that performed as well of vary much close to it. My 2 C

You MUST stay cool , dont get on your high horse here it will only make this more difficult than it should be. If you think you have a back inj. dont wait , go the the Hosp and get treated. Then It's on the record. You cant be like the prostitute that hollored rape after the check bounced. Threating to lawyer up will usually stop them from dealing with you at all and then you will need to do just that and get a lawyer. They don't care they have lawyers coming out there ears on retainers and it costs them nothing. Dont make the threat if you are not prepaired to do it If the situation is as you say and the other person is at fault you should be able to settle with them .I think that doing a fair ammount of shopping for another Z would be good as was already stated by justacarguy .If you think you are going to screw them then all I can say is good luck. Try and remember the person that you are dealing with is just doing there job , treat them as you would like to be treated and you will be away ahead of the game. Good luck

I agree 100% but you have my interest peaked, what is the difference with the -11 plug from the bp6es ?

Is this from past experience? Cammo is this how you put together such a good looking Z ?

:classic: I have done the same installation on my Z . I used a '79ZX dist with the 12 80 markings only I used the ZX coil. Now my car is a '73 and I dont know specifically if there is a difference in tachs but I am running the '73 tach and have been for 2yrs andit works great . You might contact the "sparks " guru escanlon about the tach and year difference but he is running the same setup I believe in his '71 with the stock tach. When I did the mod. I was told this vary same info. I found geocities after I did the change . When you went to geocities did you scroll down and see the wireing digram ? After seeing the diagram it made more sence. He states that the stock tack wont work but I know of at least a dozen guys that are doing it with out trouble. All the best. GaryROFL

yah , and buy some wheels like he said I wanted ! SPUNKY , I just wanted to congradulate you on your decision. One thing that I have found in life is that when I have taken a hobby that I enjoyed and it became a money making venture for me it turned into work and wasn't fun any more but work . I have done this twice in my life , now I have my z and working on cars has always been in my life . Now this is a hobby and is enjoyable to me . I do not work on others cars for $ , only now I am going to charge escanlon, . Really , you are interested in cars and you have had thoughts of mechanics . Get an education first make your foundation for your self and build on that. I was vary blessed in that at 23 I was accepted on the LA Fire Dept. , A job that I loved and if there were do overs in life that would be one. My wife and I have raised our 4 children and are all married and doing well .Our youngest just had there first child. What I am getting to is that I was in a dead end job with not a future to speek of , Married and two little kids. I couldent afford collage and went stright to work. I actually started at 15 . If it haddent been for the Dept I wouldent have had much of a future. Go to school to learn . All the best Gary

Victoria British has what you are looking for I think. Congrats on the "new" Zs sounds like you hit the mother load.:classic:

dero ,if there is a book store in your area that sells used books , see if you can find a Chiltons manual for your year of car. They come that cover more than one year . If your car has points then it must be '70 - '73 . You can also find them on e-bay . Post here on this site maby some one has an extra.

Where are you ? The cost of a redo will be greatly altered by your location , Greenland vs Los Angeles. What is "the old car thing" is it a '82 or a '72 . In any case if you can do all the work your self the savings will be great, but depending on your ability the finish my SUFFER. Parts for the 1st. gen. cars are getting harder to fine and are there fore higher in price, I am referring to trim and finishing items. To do as you said strip everything and redo, you are talking a lot of time and work and at best a lot of $$ also the car will be undrivable while the interior and dash and engine is out .

the pumps here in the US are the same If what you are talking of is a carbed engine. We only had one year of 260 and then went to 280 injected. that pump wont work. How about a Masda RX-7 if there are any in oz the elect pump from a non injected engine works great. :classic: hope this helps

If you have a concorse origional car by all means keep the flat top units. If you don't have a garage queen and want to drive the car and enjoy it , keep the intake and dump the carbs and aircleaner and go to round tops. they run better and are easy to work with. Get the stock air cleaner from a '72 also.

:classic: there is a co. that sells a kit to repair fueltanks, POR-15 there are several of us that have used the products offered by them and I assure you they are first rate. the fuel lines may only need to be blown out and new filters installed. If you are going to run carbs and want an electrical pump a great replacement from the bone yard is one from a early carbed that part is a must . RX-7 they are quiet and pump the correct amt. of volume and pressure. MUST be from a NON fuelinjected engine. Good luck Gary

I used a similar method to strip the wheel rim however I didnot use any stain at all and the wheel looks like a new one. I used clear gloss laquer on the rim about 8 or 10 light coats if I remember right . I lightly sanded with 400 wet/dry sand paper after each coat from about the 5th. One thing in doing this it is important to let the finish dry for severas days and dont rush it . My finish has a deep luster and really looks like wood. I used satin/black rustolium for the center. I dident want to use spripper as this may vary well ruin the wheel. :classic:

Water baised contact cement:classic:

I just went down the posts and I think what y ou said in a earley post was missed by the others, I may be wrong but you said that the car was hard to start. Now was what you ment was that you had to spin the engine one time nothing spin the engine again nothing spin the engine and it catches or it starts to turn over slower and wont start. If that is what is happining have the charging systime checked . It sounds like the batt is not charged fully or is the wrong capacity. The battery should be able to spin the engine more than what it sounds like you are able to and at a good rate of speed. Now if you are turning it over for 30 to 45 sec. each time , that is excessive check the ignition, especially the points if you have points. An electronic ignition is a LOT hotter spark and is a vary good mod. I went with a '79zx ignition and am vary happy. Hope you can solve your prob. let us know ! we may all learn something here. All the best Gary:classic:

Are you sure that you need to pass emissions ? 25 yrs. is the cutoff here in Or. :classic:

My '73 has a seat interlock as well as seat belt. At least I think it does. I have wireing connected to both the seat bottoms and the belt retracters. If I remember Scanlon said that's what they were. Isn't there a way of introducing a vac line into the clean air side of the air fiter ? All the line does is allow clean air to enter so that the fumes can go to the crankcase. At least that is how I remember the diagram. Iwas having a problem with fumes awhile back and found that I was building pressure in the fuel tank and the smell was horrable inside the car . I cleared the lines and it seems to have taken care of the problem , so far . Will see this summer. :classic:

:classic: Ed, how do you get the tires to squeal on ICE ? read above post. Gary Or is this tire noise from memory ?

I am aware that hydrogen gas is emitted from the batt. and is vary explosive , that's why its wise to disconnect the neg. lead first. I was of the impression that connecting the neg. to the ground of the secound cars engine that in some way helped to safeguard the alt of the power supply . Gary