beandip

Doug , if you do the swap I am looking for a flexplate with a good ring gear . If you have one for sale let me know. Thanks Gary

for your information , the automatics used a flex plate insted of a flywheel. I have a good flywheel from a 280zx that I will trade for your flexplate. Let me know .Gary

If you infact do make the swap, I am in need of a flex plate that has a good ring gear. My ring gear is damaged from god knows what. let me know either way if you would. thanks Gary:classic:

I can use the vinyl if it comes out in decent shape. :classic: I have fuel/amp gauge if dyer dosent

I dont think you are going to find these plugs much cheeper than $1.60 ea :tapemouth

inline4 . I just went through what you are doing . I just got the car back from the welder. When you prep the pannels for the welder , remove all the paint and oil from the surface to be welded and also the calking if there is any , grind away any rust as all the above will hinder the welding and cause the waist of time and that is $. Scanlon and I installed the floor pan with sheet metal screws and drew the edges as close together as we could . The welder removed the screws and filled the holes also. By preping the area and fitting the sheetmetal you will save a lot of cash and will get the job you want. As for coating the metal I just finished sandblasting the remaining surface rust and cleaned the bare new floor and it is ready for the medal ready and mariene clean and POR . I am using the satan black and covering all of the enterior with a product called B-Quiet brown bread , it is simular to the tar mating that is origional . They have other products and I am using one on the tranny tunnel for heat and sound and also on the firewall. the brown bread can also be used on the inside of the door skin to kill the drum effect . My floor is from Zed Findings and they make a fine product. Gary:classic:

:classic: I agree the std plugs not the split tip . I am running BPR6ES in my 240 and have for years they work the best . I tried Campions no joy. My set of plugs cost $10.14 for the 6 NGKs . I f y ou want to spend more its y our choice , but unnessary.

escanlon has a set of the real deal on his 240 and they look great . He bought them on e-bay . I wanted to do them also but he is my friend and I dont want to take away from hes thunder. but they do look vary good.

A wooden pencel worked for me , you can try a golf tee.

If you need Round tops there going to cost you about $125. for a set at least. keep the '73 intake manifould. Also you will need the linkage that goes between the carbs . the round tops linkage is different length , also the Air caeaner from the flat tops is trash as well get the one form a '71 or 72 . I know of a couple of sets of round tops here in Portland ore. if you need them , let me know. :classic: just looked where you are , there are several Z drivers in your area , they can help withe carbs. I am sure.

good tip , no I have never herd the grease trick, I'll give it a try. thanks. Gary:classic:

this is a great site , I have been a member since about feb of '01 , and it has grown like a weed. The people here are dedicated to the early Zs and we help one another keeping them on the road . Welcome abord. What are you infected with , that is what Z car owns you. You know there is no cure.

get the coil also and the bracket because the 12volt coil in larger in diameter. Like Zmefly said be sure to get the lower section of the dist that bolts to the block. look in the arcives for installation instructions , I got mine froma '79 zx and it works great. run sooo much better. :classic:

mike you spend T O O O O MUCH TIME IN THE CAR. :stupid:

Tany I am retarded also and like you , it seems that time is always being pulled several directions. Also funds availability for the Z project is limited . I have enough with the present job at hand and I am starting to want to egnore more dissambly. I just dont want to pull the damn engine in a couple of mos. because of an oil leak. Talk about postal ! HKSZ thanks for the info. on this , at least you make it sound like a easy enough job now with the engine out and I need to pull the pilot bearing any way, here we go again , AS LONG AS I AM WORKING RIGHT HERE ANYWAY!! It's a curse !:stupid:

what do you think ? the engine was pulled apart form the tranny only a couple of mos. back . are they that fragile that they will go bad so soon ? I have been turning the engine over by hand once in a while , I confess that only every month or so. I am wondering about the front seal on the trans as well , its an automatic. There is no end to this. I started this only wanting to replace the ring gear on the flexplate and detail the engine bay . now the car is a rolling shell , gutted of all interior wireing and no front finders bumpers . I have a windshild in my office and a heater next to my desk and a dash behind my chair . Man , thinking of another project is going to put me over the edge! I just may go POSTAL .:sick:

here is a web page that will give you all the answers. I am giving you all of it as it appears on my screen when I bring up the page . I tried to pass on another address from the same master page and it wouldent work for that person so let me know if this dosen't work and I ll print it and mail it to you . I dont want to unless there is no other way the last one was over 35 pages. Here goes, http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/head2.html good luck Gary

the head was milled .03 but the towers were not shimmed. that is he limit any more off the head and it must be shimmed . the geometry has been checked and the engine has 38k on it and all looks perfect, doing the measureing and checking the volume of the combustion chamber gives me 9.4 actually but higher would have been more to my likeing. This is strictly a street cruser.

I have the engine out and at present it is on a engine stand. I am hoping to be installing the engine soon but I have a question on the difficulity or lack there of , of replacing the rear main seal . the engine was rebuilt about 40k back but has not been run for a couple of years , at this point. Is shows no signs at all of leaking , but if it is not all that difficult to do I might as well. I just would be really pi4## to get the car done and having a leak. Is this a tuff thing and any unusual things to look for , or hints? Thanks

when you get to the interior , use turtle wax for the vinal , dont use Armor all it collects dirt and screws withe the polymers in the plastic and will add in the demise of the dash. Using a wax that has a high content of carnuba in it has been the way to go since Christ wore knickers. It lasts the best and looks the best, but the more of the wax in the compound ,the harder it is to do. But worth it. forgive me about the refrence to the big guy. :classic:

For sure the screw in type is the one to get. As far as the thread pitch I dont know but I bought a color tune and it is a 14mm:classic:

:classic: I go to this site at least once a day, I was a user of zcar for a long time but became tired of the same old tired questions , over and over and uninformed information. The people here have alot of class , well most of us. Ha Ha. I usually am on here in the evenings for a few hours. :classic: