beandip

try this , turn the mixture adjustment clock wise 1/4 turn and see if that helps. I agree sounds like a lean pop.

It sound like a vacume leak may be the trouble. When you had the carbs apart I hope that you dident swap any parts from one carb to the other . The pistons are fitted by the factory . Now did you loosen the butterflys by chance.? One cause of the trouble you are having is air leaking around the butterfly . Take the carb and look through the throat and with the throttle closed and see if you can see any light around the edges of the disk. If you do you must adjust the disk so it will seal and not allow any light, air , to pass around it. Here is how you do it , loosen the screws just enough so that the disk will barely move , now close the throttle firmly a couple of times and take a look against a light and see if it seals , when you get a seal tighten one of the screws and check again . If it dident slip and it seals remove the loose screw and put some lock-tite on the threads and insert and tighten it, and then do the same with the other one. Another thing to check before you remove the carbs is to stick your finger in the throat and lift the slide, piston , and let it drop , it should drop with a clunk , if it does not remove it and clean it and remove any grit or dirt. I use 20wt oil in the dampner , by the way. be careful not to bend the needle !:classic: Let me know what you find. Gary:classic:

:classic: Be sure when you shove the lever of the choke forward and turn off the choke that it acctually is off. Another thing , this happeded to me , the little fuel line that connects to the mixture adjustment had gotten brittle and was causing the choke to stick , just a little but enough that the front carb was running rich. I replaced the hoses and all is fine. One thing dont use just any hose, be sure it is for gasoline , and not vacume hose. Try nappa I have herd that they heve some, also from the dealer. Most after market hose is too stiff . another option is to try a Cycle shop . Some models at the hobby shop use gasoline in the large 1/2 scale also the large model boats. I bought mine from Z-Therpy. I think it was $8 .00 for the pair. Z Tharpy # 503-587-9800 If you dont own one get a uni-sun to ballance the carbs , you will need one , other wise you will have nothing but trouble. It will make it simple . Local speed shop or try a Harley shop , I paid $25.00 at the local parts store in the speed section. Victora British has them also , so does Motor Sports . All the best Gary:classic:

I dont know what the heater had to do with the head gasket blowing. As far as the water in the oil and the oil in the coolent. You need to drain both right away , replace the oil filter and replace the oil not the coolent. Start the engine and get the oil pressure up and let the engine fast idle for a couple of mins. like 2 max . shut her down and drain the oil and replace the filter . If it was my engine I would do it again . this should rid the coolent from the crankcase , at least the greatest percentage. Pull the head and have it checked and make sure it is not warped. When you get it back together flush out the cooling systime with some cooling systime flush.

If you have a Harbor Freight near buy . about $40.00

thanks guys for the replys, kamak & victor do either of you have any clearence problems wuth the 205s ??:classic:

What I wonder is WHAT COULD YOU FIND TO USE ON YOUR CAR ? Tires ? Radiater cap? Glass? WHAT ?

I found that removing it cold with a scraper getting under the edge and taping with a hammer chipped almost all of the mating and just scraping the residue remooved the rest. Melting the stuff just made a mess. Be VARY careful using flamable liquid removing this stuff, as you are in a confined space and if it ignites , vary likely the flash will be devestating . Even being under the car , you cannot remove your self quickly if needed. Please take it from a person that knows what he is talking about , be careful.

It was recommended to me to just get a piece of exhaust pipe and fit it in to replace the bushing , doing it today , I'll let you know how it works. Tacking the bar is a great idea. Thanks Keith

It was recommended to me to just get a piece of exhaust pipe and fit it in to replace the bushing , doing it today , I'll let you know how it works.

Escanlon has one on his '71 automatic , but I think he added it. What I heard was that they were eliminated because people were using them for a cruse-controll .

I find it vary hard getting by the mind set of the Bali bomber and those that are calling for a " holy " war. In the name of God how can murdering weomen and children be concidered a holy thing. How can a people get so twisted. I am really getting jaded here and loosing patience with these vermin. Gary, retired L.A. Fireman

mellow , the smaller plumbing will help with the back pressure but what is the most important is the scavinging, spelled wrong, do you know what that is ?

I just reread your post and see that you have replaced the thermostat , is it a after market one or factory? Another thing did you test it before you installed it to varify that it worked and at the correct temp ? Always a good practice. In my experience the factory part has a larger whole for the fluid to pass when the unit opens , thats why I asked . Recently there was a post on this vary thing with pictures . Any by all means check the temp with a candy thermometer to varify the gague, as 2manyZs suggested, I would do that first. my 2 c.

I am running the orig, turbine style wheels that I believe are 7" and a 14" wheel. Presently I am running 195x70s . I know I know just a stock size. but I recently replaced the front rotors and am using performance pads in front and like wise in the rear, only stock drums . My ? is this, the other day on dry pavement I had to panic stop the car from speed and fried the front tires , which have about 1k miles on them. They are not a name brand tire any one other those from the northwest would be aquainted with. Any way what is a good tire that affords good stopping and cornering that will come in a 14" tire. This is a cruser not a racer and I like the twisties , drive mostly only on dry days . What are you autocross guys using ?:classic:

Phred, yah it has been a long time , I had begun to think that you dident come on the site any more. I knew sooner or later some one whuld know what was causing this stuff. Question , I would have thought that running at speed would knock the stuff off and the engine would dijest it. How can I rid the valve of the build up with out having to pull the manifould ? This is on my old engine not the 54 flat top. I just want to know for knowledge. Gary By the way , a few of us Z-heads may be getting together for a burger and a beer, you interested ?

pinging sounds like a couple of rocks in a garbage desposer. There was a post recently from a Zdriver that had his car on a dino and was running plus fuel , so he tried the same testing with higher octaine fuel . Measured LESS HORSEPOWER. Dident have high enough compression to use all the bang for his buck! So it depends on the engine. I usually run plus, and no sounds of pinging in my 240, now that engine was a stock L-24. Will see with the "new " engine . now all bets are off.

Mellow , looks like someone did there home work in doing the plumbing. You would think that the larger piping would equate to more power, not necessarly so . 2 1/2" is great for a race engine running at high rpms all the time . The low end torque will suffer but it doesnt matter on the track since you are on the pipe all the time. If you want lower end power you need some backpressure. The 2 1/4 " max will provide all the exhaust movement need and then some and allow you to enjoy the power at street driving speed. I am assuming that you are going to be driving this on the street. Having a section of smaller pipe in the line will help you for power off the line to redline.

Well the engine is clean for its miles, when I change the oil ,which is at 3K , I can check the oil at 1000 miles and need to hold the dipstick to the light to see the oil it is so clean. The engine is in good shape , and I am not complaining it's just weard the accumilation of crud on the intake valve stems, the exhaust valves are clean of any buildup and the pistons are not covered with carbon to any extent . It's just the intakes that have me puzzled. gary

I agree with the lubeing of the cam and the pistons, Change the filters both the oil and fuel ,Get some carb cleaner and at least spray some in the over flow of the carbs . Get some starter fluid and spray it in the intake of the air filter. when you start her up . Dont pump the old oil through the engine !! Watch the carbs closely as the floats may stick and if so flood fuel . Also watch the water pump the seals have a tendancy to dry out and leak , they can swell back but not likely just a heads up , just be aware of all the gauges oil pressure and timp and so on .. my 2c:classic:

On the other side of the coin, I bought a set of carb kits for my SUs , round tops , and what I received was a set for the FLAT TOPS , they were described as for the Round top units. Contacted the seller and received a full refund, of cource I did send him the set back. Some people are honest , Sorry for your loss. I hope the rest of the Z is good. Gary

I realize that changing brands of oil can cause the engine to smoke or start burning oil , at least for a few thousand miles. But this is not the case here the brand of oil I have used hassent changed at least while I have owned the car. Going on 3yrs. as for the fuel , I always use Plus. . It just seems weard that this stuff could adhear to the valve stem sence it was soft and plyable. The valve seals do not seem to be faulty as the engine does not smoke at startup , acctually the engine dosent smoke at all. It is amazing the engine could breathe with the ammnt of crud stuck to the valve stem. The pluggs have checked to be fine however I did notice that the engine did feel as though it needed a tune up for the last few days before I pulled it. I have also found that the dist. which is from a '79zx has a broken plate that controlls the vac. advance , and that could have caused her to run a little retarted. nutxo and my_mad_z thanks for the reply. Gary

I recently pulled the manifolds on my L-24 and I found a large deposit of crud on the intake valves from the stem out to almost the seat of the valve. The stuff was thick like tar but gritty , but not abraceive when rubbed between the fingers . I removed it with a screwdriver with vary little effort. My Question is where did it come from ? I am running a air cleaner on the SUs , and the engine burns no oil and is not running rich but right on. It seems weard to me that it dident come loose and be digested by the engine . I guss I just need to drive a little harder! Anyone else have the same thing ? I have seen simular build up on exhoust valves but hard carbon but never on a intake valve. Gary

If what the description is true of the condition , It looks like a good buy to me . Good luck , of cource let the buyer beware. Gary:classic:

what engine are you running that you want to set at 17BTDC ? Is this a dist. with points or not ? and describe what you took apart in the dist.. For one thing you will most likely need to bring the #1 piston up to tdc on the compression stroke. and re assemble what ever you took apart. I am running a '79 zx ignition and at 10 d btdc. in L-24 , I run plus fuel with no pinging and get 23 mpg I dont know if any of this help but let me know.