beandip

:classic: TO ALL REMEMBER THE ANTI SIEZE .:classic:

I have a web page for you . geocities.com and check out the engine page .

Dont get the wrong idea as to what years are tested here in Oregon . After 25 years of age no further tests are done. What I was saying before was that if you were required to test , this is how it was done here in Or.

first of all where is , A PLACE ? Can you afford $600 to $1000 to have a car shipped to you ? Some advise on rebuilding a Z. If you need to ask as to what the cost of parts is going to be . You will be better off finding a clean Mustang . The days of doing one of these cars on the cheep is past. Sorry your about 3 or 4 yrs late. Unless you are a acomplished welder and or vary mechanical with deep pockets and you still want a Z . Spend $5 or $6k and find a Z that is in good shape and go from there. There are some out there still. Now I am referring to the classic Zs. I hope I have saved you some dissapointment and cash. I am sorry if I come off blunt but these are the facts , the days of the $500. driver are gone. Unless you want to dump a ton of money into one.

havent seen the pics. but one might be the crankcase vent with the PCV .

get a can of chevy engine orange , it is so close you cannot tell the difference. :classic: that is for the air cleaner not the car color

My personal openion of the 350 z is it is ugly with a capitol U . The interior is cramped , For 30 large I can find a lot more car , maby not as quick around a corner but looking one hell of a lot better. I will give them that , they are quick and handel fine , just dont look at the windows of the stores as you pass , for your reflection , it spoils the ride. sorry thats my 2c

I really think that it is from jacking the car . A possability here is the ' H ' shaped lifts that are used by some tire dealers. I have seen them use blocks on the front pads so the lift clears the tranny. Not on my car but on others. I had the same raised areas on my car as escanlon said and I could see that a combination of runing over a concrete parking bumper and the use of a floor jack was the cause. I could see scrape marks when I stripped the paint and undercoating. The dents were in the pan about 4 to 6 " back from the start of the upward tilt or the floor. I just pounded the floor down on the drivers side and replaced the floor on the pasinger side. It was rusted too badly.

Aaron it's like Mike stated. Condition is the key. You must step back and look at the car from a byers stand point . What is the body like is it stock or is there a sun roof or wales tail installed. Is there ANY body damage ? When you look inside are there any rips or tears in the seats or door pannels. When you pull up the carpets in the foot wells and see the bare floot is it rusty? What shape is the dash in are there any cracks ? Is all the glass clear or is it starting to fogg along any of the edges ? Are there any bumps or bubbles in the paint , along the bottom of the front fender just forward of the doors ? Is the chrome in good shape , no visable rust or dents ? What wheels are on the car mags , or what and tires are they just street tires or performance rated ? Is the trans stock 4 speed manual , later model 5 speed or an automatic ? Engine compartment, look under the battery tray at the inner fender and the frame below the batt. , is there ANY rust? Is the engine stock and has it been rebuilt or modified ? If so what was done and how many miles back and who did the work? Has the car been repainted , is the engine bay a different color than the rest of the car? Is the engine bay clean , or dirty? Pull the dip stick is the oil clear or black, if an auto trans is the oil clear and odor free? Start at $12k for new cond and start deducting. I could go on but must be breef here good luck .Gary

Sure is different here in Oregon. The car is put on a dyno and run up to speed and over a program of up and down to measure the enissions from the exhaust as the rpm go up and down. Of cource if the car fails there is no cost and no license , untill all is taken care of. I ran by truck throu 4 times before I got it to pass.

This backfire is it from the exhaust or from the carbs? If form the carbs , it could vary will be a lean pop . If from the exhaust it could be too rich.:classic: Which I doubt if it was adjusted to pass emissions it wont be rich.

you can buy a few $8 to $10. units from the local parts store if you want . I was told over 3 yrs ago to not bother and get one form Nissan which I did and have not had any further trouble. Check with one of our sponcers midwestz and see what Chloe can do for you. She saved me some serious $ on dist. rebuild parts. and all are OEM. Gary:classic:

Do you do this at your shop ? :classic:

I don't know where your part of the world is as you decided to not include this in your profile. But your expectations seem a lot high with your L-24 .:tapemouth

MariaAZ , dident you post in the past that you were to have to pass all the smogg tests ? If this is so you will most likely need to keep all the emissions equipment on the car and in working order .:classic:

Did you remove all the tar matt that was installed from the factory on the floors. If you havent then you dont know what rust is hiding under the matt. POR is the best rust protection material but it must be applied as the maker says exactly. As was stated before applying POR in the rocker channels is a vary good idea and if shot in with a siphon gun so much the better. These areas "breathe" so if you seal the holes after a rust preventitive it should not be a problem. :classic:

Condition is the number one thing. Rust is the most costly item to cure or repair so rust free is a vary big item. As these cars get older there are fewer and fewer of them around . The prices over the past 3yrs have increase at least 20% and more if in really great shape. It appears that on the east coast the early cars are getting rarer and there for will bring a higher price tag. If things go with the Z as they have with other cars in America in the past the '70 will be worth the most and followed by the '74 because it was made only 1yr , 260, the '70 , it was the first. In order for the cars to be worth the big bucks , they MUST be origional in all respects , no mods, and with the stock color paint , origional paint is best. Other than a Show car , if you want to drive the car then make it how you want it , 5 speed , 280 engine purple paint , what ever floats your boat , just enjoy the ride. If you are looking at the car as an investment , if you make it really nice and do the major work your self and it is 1st class , you will maybe break even. :classic:

zorro , mike is right on about the '69 and the build year. The differences in the cars from the '70 and on through the '73 are mostly vary minor . The reason the '73 got a bad rap ,as was stated before, was due to the regulations imposed by the government in the way of emissions controll. Datsun was forced to change from the proven round top SU to the emission carb the Flat top. This and they had to slightly drop the compression . This cost horsepower and the following year the 260 engine was built to attempt to regain the HP. The '73 was a little heaver due to emissions equipment and heaver bumpers , seat regulaters , they tilt back, retractable seats belts. We are talking about 200lbs or less. The B trans that was mentioned was introduced in '72 and was an automatic. It was just an up date and was used untill '78 I think. . From the first Z in '70 the cars evolved with vary minor changes untill '74 model year . Then the 280s started '75 . So you see there is no worst. If you take a '73 stick on some round tops and early front bumpers and you have a Z the same as the '70, '71, '72, the lighter and the ash tray is in a different position as well as the hazzard swich. I hope this helps to clear up some things for you .:classic:

Good to see ES is back . I want to make one point , as a former Californian , There is a lot of money made for the city and state this time of year from turism. Now that I live in cold country I apriciate the paraide . I lived about 1 hour away from it fror 45 yrs and only went to see it once . Now living here when we are fighting freezing rain and ice storms and snow and the pool is covered with 1/2" of Ice , it looks good. I also watch the Golf turny form Haiwii too. Sorry I cannot spell , I am deslecic.

There seems to be a miss understanding on what the different weight oils do in the carbs . When the piston , and needle , rises it causes encreased air flow thus leaning out the fuel mixture for a secound untill the needle rises to a point that it allows aditional fuel to enter the air streem. When a thin oil is used like ATF or Mistery oil , it allows the piston to rise quickly causing a leaner mixture. Thicker viscosity oil retards the riseing of the dome just a split secound alowing for a richer mixture , just like a accelerater pump on a detroit carb. This eliminates a stumble off the line. It is only when starting from idle at a stop does this make a difference. After the RPMs are up and you are moving , either oil makes no difference. If you are driving in vary cold temp and the engine is not warmed up most likely the choke is in use any way and either way if the engine is cold it shouldent be pushed in any event. At least this is my 2cts . I have used all three and now I only use 20wt. and find that on the street it works the best for me. I have tried to out clever the builders but have found so far Datsun did a damn good job on these engines. other than the flat tops, but they were forced on them . As for cost of the oil . I have the same qt of oil I started using 3 years ago and have given some away and still have 3/4 of a qt. . :classic:

I have memtioned this before , a easy fix is a pump from a carbed RX-7 , they are as quiet as the oem and pump the correct pressure and plenty of volume . Quiet is some thing several after mkt. pumps are not, and $15.00 at the bone yard is not a bad deal. :classic:

Victor , thanks. This is exactly what I was looking for . This a real interesting page , I took a look around on it and recommend it to all. I especially liked the dyno info. Thanks Gary:classic: