kully 560

hi Jeremy it is a basic square panel the way it looks so if I can not locate nice used ones I plan to make them from flat mud flaps the basic size looks about 10" x10"

yes when I was young I bought the 260z in 1979 and after changing the bad headlight bulbs several times I left these off of the car as they were a pain to remove and install . my other choice if I can not locate a used pair I will make a set from flat plastic mud flaps and bolt them back on for protection . the ones that came off back then were plastic .

yes that is right but not longer made I need to source used ones.my early 74 260z had some 280 parts from the factory because they ran out some stock and they used some 280 parts .I have called ever where that I know of for used parts and can seem to locate them.

no that is not the part I am looking for. the part is a square panel that is held by 6 bolts that get bolted in inside the front wheel well.it closes in the headlight bezel.it is about 10" x 10" square and you would unbolt it from inside the wheel well in front of the front tire. once it is removed you would see the headlight bezel and wiring harness. it completes the inner fender well linner so no road dirt can fly into the headlight bezel and wiring harness.

my car is a 1974 early 260z but what I have found out is that at the time Nissan was running out of parts for production at that time and they must have used 1975 parts because this is what z car source , california datzun people have told me.I think they were used in all the 280 models and for what they say at the end of the production of the 260z .

hi everybody I am in need of 2 body parts no long made ,I am looking for the front fender seal that covers the headlight bezel and bolts to the inner fender wheel well liner . if you look inside from the front tire you will be looking at the headlight . this is the cover that keeps the dirt off of the bezel.I am in need of both left and right side .I will purchase and pay shipping if anybody has these 2 parts kind regards kully

I just ordered from a Nissan dealer on ebay. the oem set was $ 57.33 each.I ordered part # 54320-e4100 for a 1974 early 260z. I will be installing in the rear with kyb struts and kyb boots and bump stop . the kyb bump stop is made from polyfoam which comes with the boot kit . they are not the urethane ones I hope they are ok? also I did see the motorsport auto one you are talking about but I really wanted rubber insulators for a better ride as I do not autocross just a sunday driver. I think the urethane will transmit to much of the road.I am replacing my tokico hps with kybs for a better ride . it was like driving a gocart haha

thanks for the reply and the part # from other manufactures kully

looking @kyb front strut mount bearing sm5064 anybody used these ? how is quality and fitment, installing on a early 1974 260z thanks kully

I have a early 74 260z and can not seem to find aftermarket strut insulators . does anybody know if they are made , who makes them and where to buy them ,or do I need to use oem Nissan parts thanks kully

I think you are right. just as usual we never stop improving our z cars . it is not bad at all, just looking for a little better performance .did not know much about these bump steer spacers thought it might help. thanks for you help kully

I have stock rubber bushings all around except for the ttt lower control arms and tension control arms, these all have the hiem joints which will help in feed back. but the bump steer I would like to cure if possible . do you think this could be fixed or just have to live with it ?

front left camber is-0.3 degrees and right is -0.4 degrees , caster is front left 3.0 degrees and right is 3.1 degrees. toe is front left 0.16 degrees and right is 0.15 degrees SAI front left is 12.6degrees front right is 13.0 degrees , including angle is front left 12.4 degrees and front right is 12.6 degrees . tires @ 32 psi thanks kully

I have a early 1974 260z new front end new stock springs and tokico hp shocks. everything is new. alignment is perfect camber and caster. I have tt tunning lower adjustable control arms and tt tunning adjustable tension control rods . very happy so far except for the bump steer when I hit a bump the steering wheel jerks. no experience in bump steer or bump stop parts . so which one do I change or add ?thanks kully

just a question for mr j mortensen ,finally getting around to removing the e-12-80 module , to be honest I forgot about it , so you said to use the msd alone ,I have the ford pigtail and the colors in it are green and purple . in my zx dissy I have red and green that comes from the module.so I think you mean to wire green to green and red to purple would just like to check thanks kurt

also I am set at 16 degrees btdc right now .this is a great forum but it make you read way to much into things!!!

great thanks for everbodys help ,is the vaccum advance of 30 degrees to much for a stock f54 block with dished pistons n47 head and su carbs? car runs great with no ping or noise.or would I be better with vaccum advance disconnected and run 17 degrees timming plus 17 degrees of mechanical to make total 34 degrees

thanks leonv, I brought up the chart and only get small square boxes does not tell me anything on my pc . I had to download a microsoft program to open it. but nothing really comes up .it shows different dissy model# but no info

years ago I purchased a zx dissy from victory brit. brand new zx dissy #d6k8-22ar says made in japan.without taking it apart to find out advance timming does anybody know what the vaccum advance timming is on these dissy off hand thanks

let me know how the lca work out looks like a nice product. I do not know how much camber you can adjust with the lower control arms ,some I think . because I believe the tie rods will not give to much adjustment ,but a little is better then none.if you need more caster than the adjustment tc rods can give you can stick a few washers inbetween the ubracket and the machined washer provided you will see when you recieved them kurt

tlorber the tc rod will push or pull the lca forward or backwards .I believe you will have more movement with stock rubber bushings than poly bushings. but it does move

right now I have not had a alinement ,but when I purchased my early 260z in 1979 I did not no it was hit in front drivers side! when it was fixed by unknow bodyshop they mounted the tc rod support back a little to far and as a result my steering wheel was always harder to turn at slow speed like backing up and turning the wheel to go forward.the aliment shop in 1997 could not set caster to proper specs . we got as close to spec as we could ,I do not know or remember how far off, but I know it was off a little. back in 1997 I purchased from msa the nissan adjustable front caster adjuster kit .you really do not get that much adjust out it but it helped.the rubber bushing are now shot that came with it. so I decided to put the ttt tension rods on and set them about 1/2" past old measurements and what a difference .I measured the caster center of wheel to wheel and now I have 90.25" center to center.I need to get the car alined to set @ factory or should I increase caster a little?

we are looking at a 40 year old design did it work yes ! but with today tech. new and improved. I changed my caster by extending my tc rods longer and my z now turns much more easy with the steering wheel then before and the car handles alot better

these are much heaver, the stock rods are 9/16" od and the new ones are 3/4" od alot more rod diameter also I needed to be able to adjust .I do not think these will bend