While removing my pass side headlight bucket, two of the four securing bolts sheared off (severly rusted). I had sprayed/soaked with wd40, but that didn't do the trick.

There is still some bolt left, but not enough to pass through the fender.

Has anyone successfully welded on an extension (should I try this)?

Also, is there a better way to remove the rusty bolts or should I just accept that most will snap...

Larry

I can't advise on welding an extension, though I think it would be difficult with a screw that was so rusty as to shear. Need good solid metal to weld But there is a much better product to use instead of WD40. It's called Kroil (or Sili-Kroil) made by Kano Labs. It works much better (IMHO) than anything else on the market.

www.kanolabs.com

PS Use stainless steel bolts/screws when re-assembling, it'll save you from similar hassles later on.

Agree on the stainless steel... that was my intent. However, on the headlight buckets, those four mounting bolts appear to be 'fixed' to the bucket. Is this not the case? Can the bolts be replaced or I am destined to buy replacement buckets...

Larry

Originally posted by Northern NJ Larry

Agree on the stainless steel... that was my intent. However, on the headlight buckets, those four mounting bolts appear to be 'fixed' to the bucket. Is this not the case? Can the bolts be replaced or I am destined to buy replacement buckets...

Larry

For the Buckets (the Headlight assemblies) theere should just be holes for the screws to go through. On the Sugar Scoops (outer body panels) you are right ther studs are fixed. Maybe you can get S/S nuts, or just coat the studs heavily with anti-seize compound whn assembling. Anti-seize has worked well for me, but I'm in CA and the weather my car is exposed to maybe less severe than what your car will see.

Are the headlight scoops metal or FRP? Welding a stud extension on to the FRP scoops / buckets could be a problem, depending on how short the fixed stud is by now. I have had luck carving out the old stud and replacing it in an epoxy bed. How good of a welder are you? Weld the old part back on if you have to and tap the threads when you are finished.

Wd 40 is a petrolium based light lubricant. It will evaporate. A penetrating oil should be used to free corroded fasteners. Kroil is great stuff. I like "PB Blaster" also. I have seen this discussion many times on this site. Wd 40 is for assembly - Not disassembly or the stuff to use for corroded fasteners.