I have a 71 240z that I’ve recently got driving again. It was having some trouble going into gear so I changed out the clutch master and slave cylinder. Now the car has no problem shifting up but seems to not want to shift down easily and grinds when I try to put it in reverse. Any thoughts? I’ve attached a video that shows the slave cylinder actuating when the clutch is engaged. Do I need to adjust the slave cylinder to actuate farther? When the clutch is pressed engine goes into neutral fine.

Did you follow the instructions? Don't know why they show the measurement since most people will just tighten until play is gone and loosen 1.5 turns. Nobody's going to stick a feeler gauge in that hole. Don't forget to bleed.

I missed the part on returning 1.5 turns, I’ll check that in the morning. This might be a dumb question but with the transmission in the car are you able to see the release bearing from underneath or is it more of a tighten until there is no play in the release lever and then back off 1.5 turns?

If it was mine I'd watch the play at the adjusting nut on the rod. Press the fork against the pressure plate fingers using one hand and run the nut in until you have contact with the fork with the other one. That would be zero play. Then back it off 1.5 turns.

Easier to do the adjustment without the spring attached, since you'll be able to feel when you're on the pressure plate fingers.

I've never done one but I think I understand what they're trying to accomplish. 2 mm of play between bearing and pressure plate when the slave clyinder is at the start of its stroke.

Don't forget to check the pedal adjustment at the MC also. I've adjusted play there in the same way. Just max out the adjustment rod, being careful not to press the piston in to the MC bore, then back it off a bit. Another feel by finger job. And you don't need to remove the clevis you can turn the rod with a pair of pliers or a strong grip while everything is assembled.

Edited 39 minutes ago39 min by Zed Head