As advised by Zed head, I'm going to start my own thread to document everything I've troubleshooted while trying to get this car started. This is my first EFI car, and I'm learning as I go, but I believe I've narrowed the problem down to the EFI system.

• The fuel pump is running and generating good pressure within the fuel rail. I have found no leaks or vacuum leaks.

• The AFM (Air Flow Meter) appears to be working; I can see it moving while cranking. I checked the continuity at the ECU pins, and the readings are correct, one pin is slightly higher resistance but looks to be okay. Im not sure if the AFM has a connection that i can take off an clean. looks to be directly wired.

• The starter/injector relay on the driver's side is clicking over and functioning properly.

• I've installed a new ignition coil and verified that there is spark at the spark plugs.

• The car can start with starter fluid but will not continue to run without it.

Beyond this, I am unsure how to check why the injectors aren't getting a signal. I'd like to avoid removing the injectors and disturbing the fuel rail for now. My main question is how to troubleshoot why either the injector relay or the ECU is not sending a signal to the resistors, which in turn should activate the injectors.

I tested the voltage going to the injectors and I'm getting right around one volt or less.

Did you disconnect the Neutronics thing? The EFI computer is sensitive to the tachometer/coil - signal on Pin 1. I see a "Power/Tach" label on the box, implying that it's also connected to Pin 1 or the coil. If the Neutronics box is shorted it could cause a no-start. Plus, there's no guarantee that it ever worked.

Does the tachometer needle move when cranking?

I also see some open vacuum lines in your picture.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69545-1977-280z-ignitionfuel-system-neutronics/#comment-679115

p.s. did you measure voltage across the injector connector pins or from one injector connector pin to ground. The second way is the correct way.

p.s. 2 you're falling in to the "it measured good" trap. We need the numbers.

1 hour ago, Toiletduck34 said:

I checked the continuity at the ECU pins, and the readings are correct, one pin is slightly higher resistance but looks to be okay.