All,

Not sure if I am in the correct forum for this question, but please correct me as needed:

BACKGROUND:

I am starting in on a 74 260Z, which is in a VERY sorry state.

Among the many structural issues are that both the R/L side floor and rocker panels require replacement.

The original floor pans are completely gone, with replacement sheet metal pop-riveted in place. In the rear of both driver and passenger locations the floor appears to be held together primarily by the tar soundproofing.

Although the rockers 'appear to be' fairly intact, I am not convinced of their stability.

The under support rails are also 'gone'

I am concerned about destabilizing the frame by removing the remainder of any 'good' metal, and so I am not sure which areas to remove and replace first/prioritize

QUESTION:

Which area should/can be removed and replaced first ( floors or rockers) without having the car open up like a clamshell?

Thanks to anyone who may be able to help,

Regards,

Mike

Baltimore, MD

I'm hoping that you acquired this car on the cheap ($2000 or $3000). If that's the case, I would respectfully suggest that you write this one off as a learning experience and go back into the market to find a better example. This one looks like it's going to be a long, painful and costly experience to turn it into a vehicle that you'll enjoy. Without looking too hard, it's clear that this car is going to need: floors, seat supports, inner and outer rockers, rebuilt dogleg structures (seatbelt mounts), underside floor rails, rebuilt inner fenders, rebuilt lower doors, rebuilt lower front fenders, and rebuilt inner/outer rear wheelhousings and rear quarter panels. I suspect it may also need to repairs to the front cowl area (complicated and challenging) and the rear hatch slam panel area. It may even need front frame rails. And the A-pillars could be rotted out at the top and/or bottom of the windshield. After that, you'll probably need to put $2K - $3K into the powertrain and another $2K into the suspension and steering. Add at least $5K for paint. With all this in mind, you're probably at least a year away from having the car on the road. Or longer.

Or you can go out and buy a decently restored 260Z for something in the $20,000 range and start driving it right away.

Hi and Thanks Man, I greatly appreciate the detailed response.

Fortunately I did not pay a dime for it :D!

I pulled it from my Dad's barn in Iowa, hauled it back to the East Coast a year ago and put it into a garage.

Your assessment is greatly appreciated, since I haven't done a unibody / monocoque car before, but I suspected this may be a larger undertaking than I had originally planned.

I was planning to strip off the fenders doors, etc. this week to better assess the rest of what I can't see, but you have given me a solid starting point to evaluate it all.

Although I can paint and weld, the cost for the sheet metal parts to cover your list above will probably run more than I had originally planned, which will require some adjustment to my timeline and expectations for sure.

Your guidance/advice is definitely going to be considered as I take a closer look at the hidden structural elements such as the A pillars, etc.

Very much appreciated and Thanks amigo!!

Mike

Baltimore, MD

I agree with Namerow that there will be extensive welding required.

To answer the original question:

If the doors seem to fit well with decent gaps, i would weld a tube on the inside of the car down low on the door opening. Remove all the drivetrain and any other dead weight. Then replace the rockers first. Inners and outers as needed. Be sure to use the doors to ckeck fit and door gaps before welding it all up. Then do the floors next. After the rockers are done, your temporary door brace can be removed. If the doors don't fit well, the body will need to be manipulated or jacked up until they do and then weld in your temporary bracing