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Headlight Gremlins


PKD

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1 hour ago, Dogariffic said:

My lights went out a couple of months ago after I clicked the dimmer switch. Ended up opening up the the switch mechanism and cleaning everything.... once I put it back together they worked great. Just a dirty connection.

These Z cars (and most cars) route the 12V through the headlight system, which is not only inefficient, but wears the contacts of the switches.  That is why I highly recommend the relay/harness upgrade.   You can still use your sealed beams (switch the connector terminals if needed).  The voltage comes directly from the battery.  

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I have completed my fight with the headlight gremlins! I had followed the path up down, side to side, and into several conclusions that lead to. . . basically nowhere.

 

Checked the circuit from light switch and found everything correct. Proper voltage, on/off circuit properly working. Checked and cleaned the hi/low beam switch or better referred to as a 'dimmer switch'.

 

As I checked the continuity of the dimmer switch with the multi-meter, I discovered the switch works fine. When attached to the under-dash wire, both hi and low circuit show return instead of hi or low. Thus a short is apparent. I checked the path with the map to discover a probable cause.

Being the wiring has been disturbed for the upgrades to a more modern fuel injection system, as well as modern headlight system, relays were added. I then checked these relays to figure out if there was any disconnected or crossed wires. All functioned well. Then to the headlight loom. No problems there, other then no voltage at all. It had to be under dash, since that was where the problems began after a new speedo cable was installed. It turns out that the tachometer was rebuilt to connect to the new ecm. I had taken it apart to check as to why it would not interact with the ecm to discover the potentiometer was broken. The wiring had loose fitting. Regardless to say, the previous owner had not assembled it correctly. I went back to this and found a wire making ground contact with the dash frame that caused a short in the ground circuit that was in circuit with the dimmer switch. Lights on!

 

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@PKD

You need to start a thread for your car and show us what's been done. Looks fairly heavily modified: turbo, manifold, fuel rail, intercooler, etc.

We like pics :P because some of us don't read so well. By the way if you're ever in the upstate PM me and you can swing by the house...

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11 hours ago, Patcon said:

@PKD

You need to start a thread for your car and show us what's been done. Looks fairly heavily modified: turbo, manifold, fuel rail, intercooler, etc.

We like pics :P because some of us don't read so well. By the way if you're ever in the upstate PM me and you can swing by the house...

Yes Patcon, I would love to start a thread. There is so many things done to this Z. I would have to find the spec sheet I received from the former owner. The engine was well built and runs well. Awesome power. Just need to get into the Megasquirt program to get the rich fuel mix to a more normal, less fume ridden mix. That car will make your eyes tear at stop lights. The former left it this way because he wanted to break it in without overheating. Since then I have added the charcoal canister back on to cut back the fumes from the tank. Why folks think removing this is a good idea, I don't know. He also disconnected the entire wiper system, I reinstalled. He took out the air system, which I have in boxes, I intend to reinstall. No heat, no vacuum line or canister to operate it. The suspension needs to be soften just a little so pot holes and speedbumps don't do damage to my spine and to the car's. Steering is wonky at best. Passenger front steering bolts came loose, had to tighten the whole rack up, needs alignment, still wobbly at highway speed. Leaking passenger door above window. And last but not least, the rear clunks like crazy! So many things can be wrong down there. Would like to convert the diff to a LSD so she isn't pegleg anymore!

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