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Murph

Major structural rust problem! HELP!

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Thanks there. :)

I'm pretty sure POR is available. I'll have to have a look around tomorrow.

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my best peice of advice to you would be this

as you are a uni student like me, my best advice would be to cut ur loses with this car, if you going to get someone else to do it, its going to cost you in excess of 5g, because they have the to replace both frame rails, and to the extent i can see there being a heap more rust that you havn't even seen yet. best thing to do would be to try and find a good frame that you can swap ur stuff over to... it will take you a while to find a good body... but it could be possible worth it, its a option

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Spoke to my mechanic today as he has a 240Z himself. He said there's a place down south that sells the rails, and it's my best bet to buy one from there, then take it and the car to a body shop and get the rust cut out and the new rail welded in.

He's getting the details of the place that makes the rails for me tonight.

I've been advised by the ACA to get in contact with the office of fair trading in my state to see what my rights are concerning action against the previous owner. So hopefully should have some more to report tomorrow.

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I would expect that you have no rights when purchasing a second hand car from a private buyer. About the only right you have is to not buy the car, after you've bought it it becomes your problem. Thats just the way the legislation is at the moment. Buyer beware. Maybe if you'd had the car inspected by the RAC or the like and they said it was fine, then you might be able to take action against them.

When you get the details of the place that makes the frame rails can you post them here for everyones benefit.

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well I can honestly say that I have not seen that type of break on a Z. def a first seeing that seam seperate. I agree with 2 many in that the best course of action is to get down and dirty and really dig into both sides. removing all the undercoating to ensure that you can identify all the problem areas. The money you spend to save this car, you would spend on another one anyway and who knows what problems that would have anyway.

This one is very saveable. Now, if it was like the 280 in my garage , it would be questionable. It has lost a large portion of the passenger firewall, inner fender well, both floors, seatbelt mounts, and rad support.

All of your rotted metal has to be cut out in order to have something to weld the patch panels in.

How is underneath the battery in yours?

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It appears to be ok.....but ya never know.

I'm really busy with uni atm so haven't touched the car in days and wont be able to till the weekend. Gonna attack it with a wire wheel, then we'll see exactly how much rust is there.

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That kid probably saved your life! As for parts, try Motorsport Auto

800-633-6331 or 714-293-5552. They have frame rails and floor boards. Good luck, Tom

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Originally posted by theramz

That kid probably saved your life! As for parts, try Motorsport Auto

800-633-6331 or 714-293-5552. They have frame rails and floor boards. Good luck, Tom

Yeah but the postage is a killer.

We're in Australia incase you didn't notice.

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Hey

POR-15 is available here in Australia directly from the distributor located in Mona Vale, NSW. Check the website at www.ppc.au.com (they are known as Permanent Painted Coatings). I have also seen it for sale in a few auto paint stores here in Australia.

As for frame rails, Warren at All-Z may be able to help you out. He is in Thornleigh, NSW.

Regards

Joseph

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Thanks Joeseph.

I'll check out all z when I ring around looking for rails later in the week. (tied up with uni atm)

With this POR.....is it something that can be removed easily? Atm, I just need something to put on between now and when the car goes in to have the rust cut and the new rail put in. So I'd like somthing that they can remove easily where required.

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POR and similar products actually penetrate the rust (iron) and permanently change the molecular structure, preventing further rusting.

If you use it in areas that are painted, IMMEDIATELY wipe the excess off with warm soapy water. It discolors everything within minutes.

Pretty strong stuff... put a couple of drops on concrete and let it sit. It will turn the surface into a sticky, milk-shake consistency. Keep it off of your hands:finger:

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No problems.

Id actually recommend that you put POR15 on the bare metal after the repairs are made before you paint etc. For it to work effectively it needs to be painted on either bare metal or rusted metal. Bare metal requires a prepping medium before the POR15 is applied; this is also available from the guys at PPC.

For a temp measure you could try some cheaper rust converter available at auto stores or even fish oil the heck out of the area.

Good luck, looks nasty.

Joseph

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I'm in the process of stripping back everything front of the windscreen, if I ever get through the tar undercoat that is. After I get all of it stripped back I'm going to give it a coating of POR-15.

I'll get some photos after I finished and post them here. Hope this POR stuff is as good as everyone says.

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It is.

Follow the directions carefully though and if you intend to spray it on make sure you only use the thinner that they recommend, it is also available from them.

I have heard horror stories before where a different brand thinner has been used, then the POR15 topcoated with the final coat only to find that it all peels off and you have to start again.

Again, follow the directions carefully if you intend to spray it.

Joseph

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Thanks for the advice Joseph.

I'm pretty sure I'll just brush it on. Yours is the 2nd horror story I've heard about spraying on POR-15 so I think I'll just avoid the whole issue. I'm not hugely concerned about the finish as long as it stays reasonabe, I just want make sure I knock the rust problem on the head as best i can.

Of course the decision is made easier by the fact that I have no spraying equipment.:stupid:

By the way, once you have scarped off the majority of the tar undercoat I have found that carb cleaner is amazingly good at removing the remaining residue. Just in case anyone else is having the same issues as I am now or in the future.

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I just discovered that at the front of my left hand rail it was full of bog!

****ing bog!

The rail appears to be fine apart from being a bit dented.....they've just made it look flat again with bog. Would you imagine this would be a big problem?

Also, can anyone give me a rough idea of how many $$$ I am looking at to have a rail cut out, a little rust work and a new rail welded in?

Btw I should have details on where to source the rails in Australia by the end of tomorrow.

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dude good on you for taking it so well (or appearing to be!). I know I'd be crapping my pants if I had just spent heaps on a beautiful looking Z only to discover the rails are shot.

If you are going to be doing any work yourself in 3 weeks time I can come up and help you - not that I have any more experience than you but 2 sets of hands are always better than 1 huh? I feel for you man...

3 weeks is when my final exams and my final 4 assignmetns have all been finished. Before that I'm just way too backed up with work. :( :(

Let us know about your quotes...

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Don't stress mate, you'll get it sorted.

Keep us posted with progress, you've been given some pretty good advice so far!

The crappy thing is that 90% of Zed's in Aus have had the rough-end dealt to them & it takes a the right owner to make things right. My car had big holes in the floor & both rails had rusted out (under the floor). We had new rails bent-up at a sheetmetal workshop & extended them all the way to the back of the floor (as per 260Z).

I also discovered that someone had welded a new rear-quarter on the car & not joined it at the lead-wiping. The other rear-quarter was very rippled too!!!

I have had the body fully restored & it's all good now:classic:

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I'm not sure about the law in Aus, but you certainly would have legal recourse in the U.S. against the person who sold you the car if you can prove that they knew about the cover-up. It was obviously done by someone who knew the problem and covered it up. In a U.S small claims court they would be ordered to pay for the repairs or refund your money up to $5,000!

God bless all of our sons and daughters at war.

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Unfortunately in Aus there is such a thing as, as is where is. Which means your on your own. You could take it to small claims court but it is your word against theirs, and it could drag on for years and cost more than it's worth. Different states have different laws but that's the general rule.

Been there, had it done to me.

Alan.

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I was living at West End , Townsville in the early eighties and

in 1985/86 a local car whole sale car yard in Townsville across Ingham road from the Showgrounds lost their dealers operating licence. They tried to sell a red 240Z with major frame damage, loosely covered up by a dodgy brothers repair. Main Roads Department QLD persuied the case. The repair was considered so dangerous, that Main Roads Department QLD impounded the Zed and considered it to dangerous for the road ever. Instant red sticker.

My question did this car get out of jail and if so how. If this is your car there will be court records in Townsville Court House circa 1985/86 that will have the chassis number and all. This would open a can of worms. I thought it was the same car when I heard your explanation of the damage area , when I saw the photos I was sure.

As for the repair I wish you luck, it will not be cheap, but if you can do it will be very satisfying.

cheers

Steve

:classic:

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I hope that is the case for you, and it can be sorted out. But surely to re rego it, they would have changed all the identity plates and firewall numbers? Or do the compliance plate and the firewall disagree? I really hope it works out

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Sounds like a possibility. Although after 20 odd years of the car being impounded dont you think it might be a little MORE rusted? There are lots of red rusted Z's around, being honest and sensible chances are this is a different car.

But YES it is still worth looking into I think, but beforeyou do, was your car a 240 or 260? I had a feeling it wasa 260?

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Just had a chat to a solicitor.

Basically I have no legal ground to stand on when it comes to the previous owner. However there is a possibility with the workshop that did the roadworthy, as it is because of their dodgy report that I have incurred a significant monetary loss, or more to the point, that the car was not worth anywhere near what I paid.

We'll see how it goes.

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Sorry took so long to reply guys....missed a whole heap of posts!

The car's definantly a 260Z. Just damn hope that it's not a write off. A guy from one of the local bodyshop/restoration places will be taking a look at it soon to give me an idea of the cost to fix it and IF it can be fixed.

Sorta starting to wonder as I've found the left rail is pretty dinged up too. No rust tho. Also looks like a foot long section at the back of the left rail has been cut out and a new section welded in (just tack welds) at some point. Also there are other sections of the foor that look like this.

There is a place with the chassis rails (full rail from rear of car to the radiator support), but we're talking AU$550 for one rail! They also have floor pan sections for $140 a side.

At this rate I might just need a whole new floor and two new rails. :(

Basically I am hoping that the dings in the left rail aren't so bad that it needs to be replaced. As for the floor maybe just strip the sound deadener, clean up any rust then treat it with POR15. Get the right rail replaced, then a few years down the track when I've finished uni I can fully strip the car and do it properly.

Or do it properly now and be in debt forever. :)

Alfadog: Where bouts do you live?

Thanks for all the support guys.....makes me fell a hell of alot better about it all. :)

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