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Parts Needed: Missing Plunger, Washer And Snap Clip


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Shaft looks great, but you won't really know until you try it in a carb body. I use a little silicone grease on mine.

 

It's supposed to be an interference fit of course. That's how the O-ring seals. Just a little interference, but there has to be some.

 

Also, I can't tell from the pics, but make sure the groove corners are deburred. You don't want them chamfered, but make sure there aren't any brass burrs kicked up from the grooving operation. Some 600 grit sandpaper should take care of it. You just don't want any burrs that could damage the O-rings during installation.

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Glad the shafts fit well. As for setting them up on the car, I think there are some great guides already posted in the carb sections of the site, but my words of advice would be to make sure:

 

- The carbs are spotlessly clean.

 

- The throttle plates are properly installed in the shafts and centered in the carb throat bores. In order to get them perfectly centered, you'll have to loosen up the stop screw on the linkage so the butterfly plates actually contact the carb throat. Remember to reset the screw after you've got the butterflies perfectly centered..

 

- The needle is properly centered in the nozzle and that the needle or nozzle isn't worn from contacting each other due to prior maladjustment.

 

- The float bowl level is correct.

 

- The nozzle enrichment function (choke) slides easily without any binding.

 

- The oil level in the damper is at the correct level.

 

- Set your nozzles two and a half turns down to start and make triple sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Anywhere. At idle, the engine isn't sucking a lot of air and you need every last molecule going through the carb venturis, not around them.

 

If all of the above works out as intended, the engine should run and then for the fine tuning, you can use one of the guides in the carb section. I think Blue has consolidated some good info.

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