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Reverend

Major screw up

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Got the carburetor linkage working and found proper 90-degree connector for brake booster. BUT i may have asked this before ( i couldnt find where):

I need to find a easy to install / cheapish throttle cable. Linkage disaligns with the one in car, about 1.5 inch and the original rod does not bend that much. I will add picture later.

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Reverend, if you look under the tech publications and how-to section, you should see a parts list and write-up of how I did my throttle cable install on my Weber DCOE's. Hopefully it gives you some ideas on how you want to do yours.

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Yea ive read it. Lokar cable seems to be the only way, when speaking cheap wire throttle.

So close but so far. I could perhaps try to fabricate a rod to suit my needs also, i just dont know where.

20140203_202603_zpsgpunimvt.jpg

20140203_202555_zpsaehu1hgn.jpg

You can see that small disalignment.

Another thing that worries me is that the inlet manifold and header are different sizes. What i mean by that is that the header is thicker from where you tighten it to the head, that warps the big "washer" and i dont know is the inlet tight enough. I've put some lock washers before big one and hopefully it solves the problem...

3093768e-7a5f-410d-b3b6-cd7d77010dc8_zpsb151102a.jpg

cbd17b5d-27c1-43f0-9dab-7337d60ef2b8_zpsa3978b94.jpg

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Screwing up continues. I might as well use this thread. The oem linkage did not align with the setup so i tried to modify the oem throttle rod. With bad results of course. Found out a machine shop that modded my rod and it looks like this

20140214_065703_zpsugcl1ebh.jpg

Looks good, except it does not work. The misalignment moves it to very weird positions, and its not working as predicted. It should be maybe located 1 inch to the left from original place. I've seen pictures of similar kinds of setup SOMEWHERE, but cant found out. Those who have similar(ish) setup please respond, how did you do it.

CheerZ

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I'm sure I posted this pic,

post-26437-14150827615614_thumb.jpg

I had a bit more room to play with then you do. The ? looking hook that I used is very different than yours.

The real problem you are facing is trying to correct for lack of alinement in 2 different axis, you may just have to bite the bullet and go with a cable.

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Here is a weird idea that may work.

Precisely weld a nut to the top of a bolt. (both Axis are 90 degrees to each other).

The bolt would screw into the manifold to adjust the height.

The nut on the top of the bolt would accept your existing heim joint for adjusting the main rod's location towards and away from the motor.

You can weld fillets to the nut then grind for strength and beauty.

This is inexpensive and lets you adjust up/down and in/out to get the rod aligned with the firewall end

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For precision during the welding:

The manifold should be used as a jig when welding. Thread the bolts into the manifold and adjust to the same height then place the nuts on a long threaded rod. Sit this on the bolts and adjust so that the nut-to-bolt is the same ..... then weld.

Edited by Blue

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Okay, so I triedto start it without the linkage. Fuel started to move trough the lines nicely but I noticed a major leak on the regulator, so firstly I retigthtened it. Primed carbs couple of times manually cause no working linkage. Tried to start it but no luck on that. it makes funny "puff puff puff puff" noise, like a steam train but does not start. I wonder what I have done wrong

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When is the last time the engine ran? Puff-puff-puff while cranking might be an intake valve stuck open or an exhaust valve not opening. Or a leak at the manifolds. Are you sure everything is tight?

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Puffs are coming from the tailpipe. I got manifolds pretty tightly torqued. Yea, got to get a pair of hands for help. Car ran about 6 months ago (with SU's)

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I did the adjustments by manual (idle speed and mixture screws) and managed to fire it up, yay! But it runs super rough, only like on 3 cylinders. When i rev it, it spits and coughs but fires up more cylinders. All in all, i dont really know is it the timing or badly tuned carbs

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Works quite good now, idle is still quite rough. I do have unisyn tool but its not accurate enough, it seems. https://www.dropbox.com/s/qdavlotzfpam95x/20140315_125936.mp4

Weirdest thing: i have some sort of liquid coming from the exhaust.. its clear and quite tasteless. Not fuel. I got scared and opened the oil pan, but luckily only oil came out. My car has been in quite cold garage trough the winter and fuel is over 6 months old, i wonder is it possible that water has been condensed in to tank and now pouring out the exhaust?

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Water is a product of petroleum combustion. It's normal. Normally it would stay in vapor phase but your cold exhaust system is causing it to condense to liquid, and drip out the tail pipe.

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Good to know, never has it happened before so thats why i spooked. Let the adventure continue then!

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I still havent them matched up. Im looking for parts locally so i could do THIS:

post-20168-14150827961654_thumb.jpg

I know where to get them balljoints but the rest of the parts i need....

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Timing is set up to about 12 degrees, runs quite okay on idle BUT i have major problem. Its leaking coolant from somewhere. Coolant drops from the lowest point of transmission (bell housing). I looked both block drain screw and heater hose outlet, but both seemed okay... im very confused right now.

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Check between the head and the block right above the starter at the back of the engine. My last engine leaked there, from the headgasket, and dripped down the back of the engine. There's also a core plug in the back of the head that you can check.

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