thats what led me to believe the jump in time but would that explain why it works right once in a while then it doesnt? and the vacuum isnt present in some of the lines thats what im hoping to fix when the haynes shows up cause hopefully i can get an actual vacuum diagram for my car and not just air con or something like that. again thank you for the replies they are greatly appreciated.

Could you PLEASE use some puncuation so we can breathe between sentences. Not trying to be the english teacher you hated, but using text style posting doesn't go well here. Most folks won't have the patience to try and help you because they gave up reading your posts.

Doubt it's vacuum or mechanical in nature.

I'd say electrical gremlins or you still have fuel issues.

Yeah sorry for the punctuation. Are there any ideas that you have that would cause it to work rarely but still run very rich? Tomorrow I plan on taking the distributor apart and cleaning it. The car sat for at least four years and I think this because the sticker on the plate is from 08. But like i said plans for tomorrow include, cleaning and inspecting the distributor and possibly buying or ordering a new ignition coil. And madkaw, what should i be looking for in terms of fuel issues? I checked the filter earlier today and it's fine and i know my fuel pump is also fine. Any input will be considered and looked into I appreciate the responses.

The Throttle Valve Switch (TVS) output can cause the ECU to limit revs. Usually it is limited to ~ 2800 rpms but your tach could be off or the TVS could be clocked a little higher. Disconnect the TVS connector and see if you pass the wall.

btw the TVS is the small black box on the side of the throttle valve.

I have a feeling the contacts are sticking at idle:

Edited August 24, 201212 yr by Blue

I wouldn't be suprised if even your cheapo Chilton manual wouldn't have a test for the TPS. It should just be an OHM test. Blue is giving you a good start.

Thanks again guys. Yeah i have had the TVS off and i have cleaned the contacts on the connector and the wire harness clip i think after thats when it worked so that may be my culprit. There was a test for it in the efi bible madkaw thats why i cleaned it off cause it appeared to be faulty it was a simple continuity test. Later on tonight i will disconnect it and see if that works. Is it possible to run the car fine without it being hooked up or would it be better just to fix the problem?

Well the TVS is bad or the wire harness clip is corroded to far i disconnected it and it will go till i let off. But theres still the problem of me running rich, any ideas?

I am glad the TVS was found to be the problem. You can get the same connector from a junkyard audio with Bosch EFI and cut it ~ 1' back then splice it into the Z harness. Keep cutting back until you get good shiny copper

then twist, solder and waterproof.

For running rich there are two common problems. The first is the water temperature sensor connector and the pig tails that connect to the main harness ~ 1' back from the water temp sensor. This runs from the thermostat to ~ the side of the throttle valve. The second problem that causes richness is when the PO or aging loosens/weakens the AFM spring.

Here are some useful links:

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Awesome thanks again everyone, when i had this thing revved up i could not help but smile. First thing tomorrow i will check the water temp sensor although when i had run through everything in the efi bible i believe it had come out as ok and working. But it will get checked out.

Alright checked the water temp sensor and the harness clip is corroded so im gonna try and get a clip set off ebay or something and hope that does the trick. Now i seem to be burning some oil though.

Join the local z club and connect with "local suppliers". Club members will give you stuff or point you to someone who has it.

It makes life easier. If there is no club, start one.