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grantf

started body work on my 280

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welding is actually pretty easy. I used a small 120 volt Lincoln mig welder, gas is a must, if you practice on some scrap pieces to start and remember that heat will warp the metal so go slow and skip around a little. It also helped that I work with a machine and weld guy that gave me advice from time to time.

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I'm taking my first stab at welding when I pull the motor on my 240Z next month. I'll have an experienced welder with me but I hope it turns out as well as yours did. Nice job.:)

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wet sanding, wet sanding, wet sanding. then I got home from work today and started wet sanding in the rain and noticed something not quite right in my driveway.... @#!!#@ some A-HOLE STOLE MY #@!$ING AIR COMPRESSOR :mad::mad::mad::angry::angry::mad::mad::tapemouth :tapemouth

Edited by grantf

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Tell ya what, come up here this week-end and I'll GIVE you my 25 Gallon Oiless which only needs a simple rebuild kit, I think, or hope.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-cpf6025vp-type-25gallon-oilless-vertical-air-compressor-parts-c-129_1662_2197.html

email or PM me

Dave

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Good news I have a place to paint my car. Nice warm loading dock! Most likely I will trailer the car sometime next week. And as a bonus I might have a professional body and paint guy on hand for help with gun setup and spraying!

Probably going to go with PPG. Life is good.

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Glad to see the great progress you are making and looking forward to the finished result. With your DIY skillz I predict another Z project (or two...) in your future!

I've used the PPG Omni line on a few cars now, all with great results. The only thing I did different was to start by spraying MP176 etch primer on the bare metal. The 2nd step I sprayed the 2K primer/surfacer and sanded it down to get a nice, smooth & flat surface. 3rd step I sprayed it with epoxy primer. No sanding done after that, as it went on nice & smooth. 4th step sprayed the color coat. 5th step sprayed the clear coat. 6th step wet sanded the car with 1000/1500/2000 grit in stages. 7th step polished the CC to a nice shine with a Makita buffer, Shlegel wool buff and 3M Perfect It rubbing compound. Damn near looks like the paint is covered with glass!

Too bad about your air compressor. At least they didn't take your Z!

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Glad to see the great progress you are making and looking forward to the finished result. With your DIY skillz I predict another Z project (or two...) in your future!

I've used the PPG Omni line on a few cars now, all with great results. The only thing I did different was to start by spraying MP176 etch primer on the bare metal. The 2nd step I sprayed the 2K primer/surfacer and sanded it down to get a nice, smooth & flat surface. 3rd step I sprayed it with epoxy primer. No sanding done after that, as it went on nice & smooth. 4th step sprayed the color coat. 5th step sprayed the clear coat. 6th step wet sanded the car with 1000/1500/2000 grit in stages. 7th step polished the CC to a nice shine with a Makita buffer, Shlegel wool buff and 3M Perfect It rubbing compound. Damn near looks like the paint is covered with glass!

Too bad about your air compressor. At least they didn't take your Z!

No kidding, I am happy to still have the z, the air compressor was two feet from it when it was rolled away. Zs-Ondabrain gracefully donated his old compressor to me, that I am forever grate full to (thanks again man).

My car is in primer epoxy and 2k wet sanded down to 600.

Edited by grantf

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Z is in the "paint booth" The car needs cleaning more sanding and more bits removed and touch up primed, the "paint booth" (loading dock). needs cleaning also. I am exited this is finally going to painted (yellow, not my first choice but it was the original color, thought I would stay true).

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Edited by grantf

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Wow, I catch threads like this and see just how lucky I got with mine. All I need is suspension and some plumbing fix's and I could go straight to paint. No body work required, other than some molding work I want to do up front. Nice job!

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I will be painting the Z hopefully in the next two days. here is a question: were do I find new squeegee rubber for the upper door mounding? The old ones are hard as a rock and large chips are missing, this rubber appears to be stapled to the SS moulding.

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Ok so today I got color on some of the loose body parts!!! HVLP guns are so much easier to use than the conventional gun I used last time I sprayed a car. :) Very little orange peal but I need to keep things cleaner as there is some dust landing in the paint. but hey Its turning out better than

I thought!

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Edited by grantf

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My girlfriend would kill me if she saw me using my new socks for that. But it is tempting, what compound is compatable with wool work socks I wonder :ermm:

Edited by grantf

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Are you using a two stage paint?

Just a tip to help with the orange peel. When you are laying on the clear, for the first coat, put it on a little bit dry, don't try and make it glossy on the first pass. This gives the 2nd coat something to stick too and it doesnt' separate as much. On 2nd coat, you make it a bit more glossy, then the third is when I'll try and make it wet. Since you are only allowing it to flash for 10 minutes between coats, it will still "melt" together and lay down. Especially if you picked a medium hardener and its good and warm where you are painting.

If you aren't using a 2 stage base/clear. shame on you!

That's how I paint anyway. Here are pics of my race bike I painted, no buffing, color sanding, or polishing. This is straight from the gun..

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Shame on me :disappoin

I am using ppg shopline Acrylic urethane, single stage. Reasons are, I am on a budget (I got the sealer and paint at distributor cost), I am painting it a solid color (sunburst yellow) If I went with metallic I would have used Base clear. Thanks for the painting tips though,I will be painting a "fog coat, color coat, gloss coat on the body tomorrow, I believe the techniques are similar including the 10 min flash time. I cleaned the shop again today (it seems I can never finish cleaning the dock and the car) and went over the car again with degreaser.

P.S. My 1977 Kawaski kh400 could probably beat you're bike in a drag (but only in a strait line).

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Edited by grantf

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Shame on me :disappoin

I am using ppg shopline Acrylic urethane, single stage. Reasons are, I am on a budget (I got the sealer and paint at distributor cost), I am painting it a solid color (sunburst yellow) If I went with metallic I would have used Base clear. Thanks for the painting tips though,I will be painting a "fog coat, color coat, gloss coat on the body tomorrow, I believe the techniques are similar including the 10 min flash time. I cleaned the shop again today (it seems I can never finish cleaning the dock and the car) and went over the car again with degreaser.

P.S. My 1977 Kawaski kh400 could probably beat you're bike in a drag (but only in a strait line).

Nice Kaw. I like the old ones ;)

I've used the shopline acrylic. I will look good. I just still can't get over how easy and how slick the ppg two stage is. The base goes real far with the reducer too. I wouldn't think it would have cost too much more. Two quarts of base would have been plenty, 1 might have done it. Anyway, my technique might not help and I'm no pro by any means. I've just wrecked and repainted it enough times to get fairly decent with a spray gun LOL

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Yes I believe at tack coat then thicker coats after are the way to go all in all I sprayed four on the car, I think it turned out well considering it was a dirty loading dock, I did get 3 runs :mad: but they are small and should sand out easy.

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Wow, that yellow really pops! I really like that color. It looks great! Considering the do it yourself spray booth you have to be very pleased with the results!:beer:

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Thanks, The final prep work makes the difference I was surprised that there was no dirt or dust in the paint, most likely the plastic that was hung and cleaning the car 3 times before spraying. I also have a little over a quart of paint left over for future touch ups if I need it. :):)

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Edited by grantf

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