Alan, thank you for the page. It shows two different sets of dimensions. Is one for manual brakes and the other for power assist?

For the sake of completeness, here is what the chart says:

Two rows reading from the left can be read as 'Stock' above, and 'Modified' below that.

The column headings, left to right, can be read as 'D hole dia.', then 'L1 length', then 'L2 length', and finally 'Pedal Ratio'.

The notes underneath point out that - roughly translated - "Accelerator and brake pedal settings should be set according to driver preference", and that "When pedal stroke is decreased, pedal effort increases".

It also mentions a pedal pressure example of 30kg effort translating to a 0.1g decrease in speed for the above mods, and recommends 'Golden Cruiser HWB-II' brake fluid ( which is obviously the Unfair Advantage we are all missing ).

Personally speaking, I'm not messing about with manual brakes on any of my cars - 'track oriented' or not. I'm sticking with the FIA-legal vented type MK63s and the small Master Vac, and 'stock' master cylinder sizes. All I'll mess about with is the friction material of the pads. I'm a fan of ENDLESS pads since I got a few sets for free.......

Alan T.

Personally speaking, I'm not messing about with manual brakes on any of my cars - 'track oriented' or not. I'm sticking with the FIA-legal vented type MK63s and the small Master Vac, and 'stock' master cylinder sizes. All I'll mess about with is the friction material of the pads. I'm a fan of ENDLESS pads since I got a few sets for free.......

Dual manual masters are fairly popular on this side of the pond, but I suppose either way works. You're obviously after a different end result than someone like me who is willing to cut up the pedal box and firewall to fit the duals.

I understand enough about braking and hydraulics to be dangerous so I apologize in advance is this is a dumb question. Is there a standard distance between the brake pad and the rotor? Presumably you'd want them as close as possible without actually touching all the time so that the pad would move a very short distance. I understand the leverage increase obtained by increasing the pedal arm ratio as discussed above but changing the master cylinder piston diameter or caliper piston diameters would have a similar effect on pedal effort required versus braking power.

I'm with Alan on this one. I just bought a new (rebuilt) master vac from "reddat" on Ebay. I was only inquiring about the OE manual brake equipped cars since I had never heard of it before. I'm just doing basic brake upgrades and new master vac and master cylinder. I may put the larger bore MC on due to the upgraded discs. I'm more interested in maintaining an original appearance while adding some improved braking performance.

so does this mean that i can just remove the booster under the hood n "SEE" how soft or hard the pedal is?