Jump to content

IGNORED

PerTronix Electronic Ignition


Recommended Posts

Hi, I recently had an electronic ignition modification done to my 1970 240Z. It runs much better but at higher rpms there is intermittent missing and the tach goes haywire. The tech working on the problem called PerTronix for help. They offered several suggestions, one of which the car would not run all and the other made no difference.

I'm about to have the the original point system put back in to see if it runs ok.

Anyone have similar problems that they have solved?

Thanks, Ronald

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also put the Pertronix module on my '70 240Z. It is the best thing I ever did, the car runs smoother at all RPMs and starts more easily. All of my gauges work properly.

Here is the wiring diagram for the Pertronix on 70-72 manual transmission 240Zs. Double check your connections before you do anything else. Good Luck!

post-4258-1415080911239_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

zcar70

Do you think maybe its a loose connection, or bad wiring?

I am feeling more optomistic now knowing that the Pertronix does work well on a 240Z.

I will check this out.

Thanks for the schematic.

Ronald

Link to post
Share on other sites

To fix the tach bounce insert a 50,000 ohm resistor in the line going to the tachometer. I put mine right at the coil. Try to get a 1 watt rated resistor. If the tach won't go the full range then lower resistance to 35000 ohms.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you need to keep the ballast resistor, or can you remove it? Always thought when you upgraded the distributor that it was unnecessary.

My Pertronix is hooked up with the ballast resistor as seen in the schematic. Works perfectly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard very good things about petronix, but the most praise is how simple is to put on. I recomended to a friend for his VW bug and we had problems well after a month and call to petronix we founf the problem they send us the wrong rotor for the aplication. You stated that your car was missing at high RPM is that correct? because if it started at all then you conected every thing right, it may be the wire from the coil to the cap, or your coil is bad. see that is not leacking oil.

I use Crane it used to be call Allison once you put on you will never have to worry about the timing even if your Dizzy is worn out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Pertronix works very well on my 1972 (4-speed). It was installed per their instructions with the ballast resistor.

Ronald, check to see if there is any side-to-side play in your distributor shaft. Any slop there will present issues.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah they will burn out unless you disconnect them when leaving the key on...I burned out one too before I figured that out. I've had to replace two units though due to overheating problems with the circuitry that goes in the distributor. The set that I have now is working the best of all the ones I've had so far, and I can rev freely to 6500 rpm without any issues and good power. Way better than points were IMHO, though when I go with the turbo swap I'll be putting in a Megasquirt II and coil packs so no more need for the Pertronix.

greg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The petronix is compact, but you see the little isues, with the Crane you can leave it on, it will rev very nice and it will compesate for the worn out shaft. I Had mine 15 years with no problem at all, when I bought it it was call Allison Ignitions. The only thing is the black box, at least is small not like the MSD, talking about MSD when I used it the Tac quit working.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try them all.

I will check the wiring for proper connections and being wired correctly. I will check for slop in the distributor. If that does not work I will try the resistor.

On the schematic that zcar70 supplied it shows a speed adjustment. It that the recessed black slotted item just to the left of high center on the back of the tach? I have two tachs. One is over 200 rpms off and the other, just supposedly completely rebuilt, is 600 rpms off. Will that speed adjustment adjust the rpm reading on the tach?

I have a 280Z block, 280Z five speed, and a 280Z rear end in my 240Z. I know that in theory that should not create a problem with the tach. However, the car gets up to 6,500 rpm a lot faster than with the smaller block and the standard point distributor. Could the old tach just not be able to take it?

Thanks again for all of the help. I have some other nagging problems that I will bring up once I get the missing and the tach problem resolved.

Thanks, Ron

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.