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Arne

Mylar logo'd sunshades - Completed

Here's the final count:  

20 members have voted

  1. 1. Here's the final count:

    • [b]240-Z[/b]
      38
    • [b]280-Z[/b]
      4
    • [b]DATSUN[/b]
      18


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Thanks Arne! I am soaking in all the helpful hints for these. I think they're going to look awesome and everyone is going to wonder how we kept them in such great condition over the years :cool:

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I've heard back from about 75% of the buyers so far. We're still moving forward...

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Have heard from all but 3 buyers now. Awaiting the next sample from Joe, maybe by the weekend, but definitely by early next week.

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Hey Arne, I'm still in as well. Thanks for all the effort you've put into this. Out of curiosity, will adhesive be applied to the vinyl letters as well so we're not relying on the surrounding mylar to hold up the letters?

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Out of curiosity, will adhesive be applied to the vinyl letters as well so we're not relying on the surrounding mylar to hold up the letters?
Adam, I don't believe so, no. But from my experience with the first true sample (still on my car's windshield, BTW), I don't think that will be a problem. The newer adhesive seems more than adequate to the job. Plus if you've squeegee'd it thoroughly, it appears to me that the vinyl has done the static cling action and really doesn't want to sag. I'll know more about that soon, when I remove this sample.

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Sign vinyl has adhesive on the back, so you are good there. It looks like he is using 2mm vinyl, so the letters are only 2mm thick, you will hardly notice they are not silk screened. Nice job!

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Stickerman, I assume you mean 2 mil as in 0.0254 mm or .002 inches and not 2mm. That would kind of suck. :)

Edited by =Enigma=

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Sign vinyl has adhesive on the back, so you are good there. It looks like he is using 2mm vinyl, so the letters are only 2mm thick, you will hardly notice they are not silk screened. Nice job!
Stickerman, I assume you mean 2 mil as in 0.0254 mm or .002 inches and not 2mm. That would kind of suck. :)
I'm with Adam on this - no way the letters are 2 mm think! Maybe thicker than 2 mil, but not much.

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From Answer.com.

How thick is 20 mil?

In: Length and Distance [Edit categories]

Dakota Ultrasonics

Ultrasonic Thickness gauges, Flaw Detectors, and Bolting equipment

www.dakotaultrasonics.com

According to Answers.com, a mil is: "A unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (0.0254 millimeter), used, for example, to specify the diameter of wire or the thickness of materials sold in sheets."

So; 20 mil = 20 thousandths of an inch = 0.020 inches

Or; 20 x 0.0254 millimeters = 0.508 millimeters = 0.05 cm

But... According to another source there is more to the story:

"All papers are measured in two ways. One is referred to as the paper weight, the other is the actual thickness of the paper. Paper weight is generally measured in 'grams per square meter' (gsm). Paper thickness is measured in 'mils' which is short for thousandths of an inch. Paper weight and paper thickness often go hand in hand, BUT because some papers are denser than others they may be heavier than a similar thickness paper. For example, two manufacturers may list a weight of 300gsm, but the papers may have a different thickness because they have different densities.

Paper thickness is generally listed as 10mil or 15.5mil and this is equivalent to .010 inches or .0155 inches respectively. To give this some perspective, a human hair is only 2 mils. This is measured with a digital micrometer."

I would say that the letters are very thin. Hope this helps?

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Final order and logo mix has been confirmed. All units are pre-sold, no additional units will be available.

Final count:

240-Z - 38

280-Z - 4

DATSUN - 18

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Production will begin next week. Estimated to ship to me around 2/5/10.

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We're close. Looks like we'll miss the previous ETA by a day or two. Final payment has been mailed, and the product should be shipped to me early next week. I'll then spot check a couple for quality and begin shipping.

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THEY ARRIVED TODAY!!

I'll be installing one of mine tomorrow as a final test, then spot-checking and working to combine packages as appropriate. If all goes well, I'll be shipping them out next week. Stay tuned...

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I installed one of my pair today, and I'm well pleased. The fit is nice, and the installation process was much easier this time. I'll be posting some updated hints and tips shortly.

Shipping prep has commenced, I'll be working on that some tomorrow, and plan to take a few hours off work during the week to get the bulk of them shipped out. I hope to get all of the USA-bound packages mailed by Wednesday or Thursday. All will be shipped First Class mail. There will be either one or two per tube, as needed. Those of you who ordered more than 2 will receive more than one tube.

The International orders will go out a bit later, I plan to pick up the Customs forms early this week, and hopefully ship by the end of the week.

My car is alone in the world right now in wearing a current production Bolder Tint sunshade. But it won't be alone much longer....

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Each tube will include a copy of the original instructions circa 1975. The instructions are still valid, but here are some additional tips, based on my recent experience.

  • Cleanliness is essential. You want the inside of the windshield and the contact side of the sunshade to both be as dust and lint-free as possible. You'll never get it absolutely perfect, so accept that up front or you'll get really frustrated.
  • Do not use ammonia-based window cleaners to prepare for installation. Clear water with a bit of vinegar, or alcohol-based cleaners are OK. In either case, rinse with clear water after cleaning.
  • I did a final wipe using a microfiber drying towel to eliminate as much lint and dust as possible. It appeared to help.
  • The original instructions say to use clear water only, with a drop or two of dish detergent as optional. The additional adhesive on the newer mylar doesn't allow it to slide around for positioning as easily as the originals did, so consider that drop or two of dish soap in the water as required. I did not use it on the test application, but did on the last one and it was MUCH easier to slide around and get correctly positioned.
  • Be careful while handling the sunshade so as not to crease or wrinkle it. Special care should be taken while peeling the clear protective film off the adhesive side, as it is very easy to wrinkle it then. Wrinkles in the mylar will show later.
  • The instructions say to use a squeegee, and they do mean a RUBBER squeegee. Flexible rubber is essential, a harder plastic squeegee won't do it.
  • Lastly, it doesn't pay to try to get it positioned too tightly against the rubber windshield seal. Try to get it too tight and you risk wrinkling and creasing the mylar. Absolute perfect fit is not critical since even an eighth to a quarter of an inch gap really doesn't show - since the black rubber window seal is right behind it.

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All USA-bound orders were shipped (via First Class Mail) this morning. I expect most—if not all—of them to be delivered by the end of the week.

International orders will be shipped soon.

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Fantastic, Arne. Looking forward to seeing them if not installing them until the weather gets a bit warmer. Thanks for taking this on. I'm sure it was a bit of a pita. That will teach you about volunteering........LOL.

Cheers, Mike

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Wouldn't have done it if I hadn't wanted one for myself bad enough to be willing to take it on. Yes, it was a PITA, and I'll think really hard before taking on something like this again. But it's almost over now. I've got mine, 34 others will have theirs, and while I haven't got the final accounting finished yet, I do know that there will be a pleasant amount left over for a club donation. A win for pretty much everyone.

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