I'm giving up, i need some input

[ChrisZ]

Well Ed so do i, there are two things i'm focusing on now.

#1 valve adjustment, there are marks on the rockers surface that is curving down where the cam is hitting it, so when adjusting the valves i can't compensate for those marks and that will make the adjustment to sloppy, am i correct if i say the ratio on the rockere is 1.5 to 1, meaning that if i multiply the thickness of the feeler gauge by 1.5 and measure at the lash pads it should be all the same.

#2 either the battery is shot or the altenator / relay is, i have read someplace that it can cause that the spark plugs isn't getting enough voltage and that will affect performance, just got a new battery today,(needed one anyway the other was not mine), im going to install that tomorrow and measure the output from the altenator.

Rear float hight on the 3 screws can some verify if it is the same as the front or different.

Chris

[ChrisZ]

BTW Ed, is that a xenon air dam you have on your ride?

Chris

[ChrisZ]

Update, problem solved, first i pulled one plug wire at time in order to see if it would make a difference, nothing, then i used my timing light to se if it would work on all wires, there was no flashing on #5 cylinder, 6 new plugs gapped ad installed and now it pulls HARD

Time to re adjust the carbs and get raedy for a long trip tomorrow

Chris

[=Enigma=]

Hey that's great news. As an upside, you now know that everything else you checked is also 100%. Happy cruising!

[ChrisZ]

Thanks Adam, i just got home from a 2 x 120 miles cruise (90mph) it was fun and i got to know of some more small "need to fix bugs"

While i have you Adam, can i then get you to have a look at the wiring colors at the coil and ballast resistor and then tell me the color codes?, i really need to know.

Chris

[Chino 240Z]

When you think it's fuel, it's electrical.... when you think it's electrical it's fuel, but I believe it was a good road of learning. I was glad to see that last post!

[=Enigma=]

Thanks Adam, i just got home from a 2 x 120 miles cruise (90mph) it was fun and i got to know of some more small "need to fix bugs"

While i have you Adam, can i then get you to have a look at the wiring colors at the coil and ballast resistor and then tell me the color codes?, i really need to know.

Chris

Sorry Chris, I swapped out the original dizzy and added an MSD 6AL and Blaster coil some time ago. In the process I ran some new wiring and wrapped it all up so it is no longer visible. If I recall correctly, the original wiring was as follows:

BW from IGN SW (start) to Coil +

B from Coil - to dizzy

GW from Ballast to Tach

BW from IGN SW "run" to Ballast

Condensor to Coil +

This is from memory so I could be wrong on this. I recommend double checking a wiring diagram to confirm. You can also check the before/after pics I took of the 280ZX dizzy and B210 coil swap. There may be some pics where you can see the original wiring with the ancient Lucas coil and the replacement from a 79? B210.

Edited April 19, 2009 by =Enigma=

[ChrisZ]

Thanks Adam, i will take a look, problem is that my tach isn't working and i don't recall having a GW wire out there.

Do you know if you have a 3 or 4 wire tach ?

Chris

[=Enigma=]

Do you know if you have a 3 or 4 wire tach ?

Chris

Based solely on the Instrument Harness diagram in the 1973 FSM, it's a 4 wire. The shown are B, G, BW, GW at the connector for the tach. I haven't had to go under the dash yet thank God so I can't verify this.