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WingZr0

The State of Things....

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OK yo, here it is.

The invoice from memory.

Clutch kit ~ $250

Slave cylinder ~ $50

Master cylinder ~$70

Resufaced Flywheel ~ $xx

Diff Fluid ~ $60

Tranny Fluid ~ $60

Brake Fluid ~ $15

Diff lube ~ $xx

Tranny lube ~ $xx

and pretty much the rest of it was 4 to 6 hours

worth of lobor fees.

Totol ended at $1117.16

Basically they had to replace everything associated with

the clutch.

It was all bad and the Slave Cylinder was leaking too.

Was told it shifts well again like new and the tranny

is fine with a little metal shavings in the fuild which I had them

check for, Diff fluid is fine.

Same peddle feel and travle as before though was maintained.

Just need to pick her up and see for myself now :)

~Z~

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Well I finally got back from AATCO and now she's JUMPY !

Is there some sort of "Brake In" Procedure I'm supposed to do

to get her from being that way and back to normal.

I can't even feather the clutch off the floor without

Ruby launching off the line like NHRA.

Is that normal or was I just jacked by a bad clutch job?

Found out today at Nakatsu's Garage they could've did the clutch for around

$600 as opposed to AATCO's $1117.16.

I don't know if I got served or what.

The warranties still good for 3 months but I should have Nakatsu test

drive it first before coming to any conclusions ~OR~ taking old girl back

to "Jumpy Transmission". :dead:

I see what you mean Blake by race clutchs getting old for

street use, barley ran 12 miles and I was already sick at the fact I couldn't get

her to make a smooth start.

Even 2nd's jumpy.

Well at least the E-brake light goes off now... :rolleyes:

~Z~

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Sounds like it's engaging too close to the floor and you need to adjust the pedal 'free play'. Refer to page CL-6 in the clutch section of the FSM. I'd take it back to AATCO and have them adjust it. Actually I would just adjust it myself but if I had just paid over 1100 bucks to get a clutch done, which I never would since I do my own repairs, they would be the one working on it until it was right at that price.

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Thaynx Blake,

I wasn't to sure what they did but it was jumping when I left the parking lot.

Thought it was me needing to get used to the new clucth, but no

matter what I did she kept jumping.

It was only 20 miles latter I actually for the first time ever put the

clutch pedal to the floor and lifted half an inch off and she didn't jump but

even then iot was hit and miss.

The old set up only needed about 3 and a half inches worth of

pedal travel to fully engage or disengage.

Going from neutral to 1st gear was as smooth as an Automatic.

I new something was up when I arrived, gave the dude my money,

then asked him if he wanted to go for a test drive.

He said,

"shes ready go right now, you can just drive her off the parking lot."

Repeating the question he again replied the same then made a vague response like,

"yeah, ok".

Upon returning from the office room were he deposited MY cash he again

just said,

"You can just drive her home now everything works fine.

I test drove it myself Blah Blah Blah."

Granted there was another customer in line behind me when this occured that he

seemed anxious to get to but I was willing to wait.

So I instead took my keys knowing if "EVERTHING" wasn't "FINE" I can

bring her back under warranty.

I'll take her back in and let them adjust the pedal but something tells me

to do it myself than have them make mutliples attempts to get it right.

Jumpy Clutch, A good way to get pulled over for sure.

Thyanx again Blake :)

~Z~

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I marked everything, but expect it will be a pain to re-install...

Still have a a few afternoons of dis-assembly before I'm ready to start work on removal of the drivetrain.

Also got a care package from MSA today that included my rear spoiler, sway bars and new interior vinyl.

post-15388-14150802291574_thumb.jpg

post-15388-14150802292105_thumb.jpg

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I marked everything, but expect it will be a pain to re-install...

Still have a a few afternoons of dis-assembly before I'm ready to start work on removal of the drivetrain.

Also got a care package from MSA today that included my rear spoiler, sway bars and new interior vinyl.

Awesome :)

Disassembly is allways the hardest and sometimes Slow part.

What kind of Spoiler you get? I'm ssuming your staying with the Silver?

5 Speed tranny maybe :rambo:

~Z~

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Going with the BRE style front & rear spoilers. Vented front spoiler.

I'm planning on staying with silver, but am thinking of adding a slightly darker "ghost" rally stripe. (see attached pic).

I want the stripe to be very subtle, just a few shades darker than the body silver. Let me know what you think...

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Going with the BRE style front & rear spoilers. Vented front spoiler.

I'm planning on staying with silver, but am thinking of adding a slightly darker "ghost" rally stripe. (see attached pic).

I want the stripe to be very subtle, just a few shades darker than the body silver. Let me know what you think...

WoW that look nice Bro!

Now maybe if you go with the Tinted Green Glass...

Jus Joking, but I think a similar shade (maybe like crayon green) Green Stripe would be nice too.

Try that out on your pic see if you like.

Oh yeah, you going with old style rims or New School?

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~~ Edit ~~

Looking at your pics some more,

Stick with the Silver and Silver and you should get a Fairlady Z Grille to go with

that look :)

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Went by Nakutsu's Garage yesterday and made an Appointment to get the

engine rebuilt on the 9th of Feburary and while I was there

he was kind enough to adjust the Clutch pedal for me :)

He said just as blake did, there was no free play in the pedal (ZERO that is).

I actually pulled up as he was in his co workers car leaving for lunch.

He acutually got out and talked to me for I did.

Even asked his friend for a flash light and wrench to fix the pedal.

Now thats service!

And I even have the option to

supply my own parts for the rebuild!

Anyway that was a good day.

~Z~

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WoW that look nice Bro!

Oh yeah, you going with old style rims or New School?

I'm going w/ 15" Panasports. The wheels arrived yesterday!

They are silver, but I'm thinking of painting the spokes a medium gray metallic, but not as dark as Panasport's "gunmetal" color.

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All right ! ! ! !

New N47 rebuilt Cylinder Head with installed stock cam arrived, off to

get Ruby towed now ^_^

~Z~

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full house said:

"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogma420

$1000 for a clutch? is that what that said? or was that for brakes too?

$ 1000 for a clucth? where did you get that?

"

Uhh, I read the post....what's your excuse?

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Ruby's finally at the shop now ^_^ !

Nakatsu's been extreamly busy working on at first 3, now 5 other

race cars getting them ready for the up coming race season for other

customers.

So today I got her towed into the shop and put down a deposit for a

complete engine rebuild.

Both engine and trans are coming out!

Engine Block is going into a machine shop (for lack of a better term) to get a

complete check over, decked and all the standard things associated with

that kind of work.

Estimated time to get to start work on her is around first part of April with

completion time of around 1 to 2 months depending on how bad the

damage is and upgrades I may add along the way, and of course $ :smoke:.

Things on the work order list so far are

~Piston Rings

~New Piston Heads if need be

~ARP head bolts and connecting rod bolts

~Kameari high capacity oil pump

~New water pump which I may go with the MSA Electric version

~New MSA Aluminum Radiator (Maybe)

~Cap and Rotor (manditory)

~Stock timing chain

~MSA 3-2-1 header with 2 inch down pipe connected to NOS ANSA Twin

Stack with 2 inch inlet diameter

(Cat Converter will be made to swap in and out easily for smog test days)

~New Stock Cam

(depending on if the stock cam that came with the rebuilt

cylinder head is actually good are not. We will likely be taking the new

head apart and rechecking it to make sure it's all up to spec.)

~Oil preasure sender

~Raising rate fuel preasure regulator

~All new matching injectors and connectors

~Check Fuel Pump

~Check AFM and Throttle Body

~Check to see if Gas Tank need to be boiled out

~Replace any sensors that are bad along with Cold Start Valve if need be

~New stock brakes and SS lines and wheel bearings

~New polyurethane suspension bushings most likely

~Check entire suspension componets just to be safe

~Quick steering knuckles

~Painting hood Gloss Black to fix that unsightly 4 inch bondo crack on

the my hood bulge.

What is that hood bulge actually called by the way :cheeky:

and should I paint the hood only or hood, inspection lids and

cowl panel GB for that "Arrow Head" look?

OK, so other than that just your basic engine rebuild.

I know some of the things I listed are standard for a rebuild but

thought I'd list them jus the same.

Everthing will be done to still pass smog ( Thyanx Blake ~_^ ).

Also going to seriously look into that Mega Squirt set for later on after

talking more in depth about it with Nakatsu.

I believe this is the link -> http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

He was actuallly suprised to know they were still around and that I

knew about them.

We were even talking some about the new AEM EMS set up that came

out last year, the one were you have to mail it in to have them (AEM)

program the engine parameters you like so you can tune it later when

you get it back in the mail.

Supposedly it's cheaper than the old system they were using at around $6K.

http://www.aempower.com/

And case your wondering why I'm painting the hood Black is

because I'm not sure if the new Dupont 51013 Sparkling Burgundy Poly will

be too bright for the rest of car untill I can get it complety repainted at

a later date.

Nothing says yuck like a non matching body panel of "same" color LOL

OH yeah, I posted this number for somebody once but the number has changed,

Nakatsu's Garrage / NS Garage

Dean Nakatsu

530-632-2761, shop # 530-674-7223

NSGarage1@yahoo.com

Wheeu, now I need a 2nd job ROFL :rambo:

~Z~

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Speeding is fun,

As long as you out run,

The cops! ! !

Maybe you should change that to:

Spending is fun,

As long as you out run,

The cops! ! !

But seriously, Ruby should run great after all of that.

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Maybe you should change that to:

Quote:

Spending is fun,

As long as you out run,

The cops! ! !

But seriously, Ruby should run great after all of that.

HAHAAAA HAHAHAHA

ROFL Truer words have never.... ROFLROFLROFLROFL

Yah did warn me she would take my money,

I jus didn't know how much ^_^

~Z~

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Rubys engine finally comes out this weekend !

'88 Acura daily driver choosen NOW to fall apart though.

Already in it for $500 dollors minimum in repair bills to fix, CV Axle boot busted and

lost oil, Tail Lights and Dash Lights turn off when Head Lights are

switched on now, and I just bought the thing less a month ago :eek:

Yeah they call it an Acura Legend, but I now call it

The ACURA BUCKET !

piece of junk

~z~ LOL

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Engines' FINALLY OUT ! ahoy.gif WOO HoooOOO !

The clutch flywheel and such looks good (AATCO did thier job :tapemouth)

and so far we know we need a new engine harness or at least the

needed connectors and the radiator is SHOT.

Other than that the basic routine tear down will commence with more

updates on what a Carburetor gasket on a FI Z will do :surprised.

JE pistons have been added to the list as opposed to the COSWORTHS which

I was gonna get but we all know how expensive those can be, $1,700 for a

set of six!

This months Dsport magizine has a speed shop section on pistons, how

they work and the makers of such high quality parts :) click on sig below

for more :).

Also might get the JE's made as custom specs but more on that later but

advice is also welcomed since I'm blind to that much of it LOL.

Well back to the shop I go, Thyanx for your support so far guys ^_^

Progress is always great!

~Z~ ahoy.gif

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Congratulations!! It looks like will be a very nice work!!! Put some pictures here that we can see! I would like to see it!

all that new parts, it will be a new car!!!

Filipe

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I just get the 1st half of my invoice for Rubys engine

rebuild and so far we're in it for $1,761.25 :nervous:

ARP Head Studs $142

ARP Rod Bolts $56

Decked Block $80

Polish Crankshaft $45

Honed Rods $85

Honed Cylinders $50

Pulling Engine Labor $588

Build Engine Labor $700

Next on the list is ordering a set of JE Forged Pistons

and Rods with offset piston pins, another $700+

still have the brakes and 6-2 headers to go and

high capacity oil pump, aluminum radiator and

electric fan.

Almost done though, hopefully I can get her done by

July as long as this symbol (($))stays away :cheeky:

~Z~

PS, that damage report is still coming in.... lets jus say it wasn't good.....

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OK this just in...

The Damage list in the case of

"Carb Gasket on FI Z".

1~ Oil pan gasket leak was worse off than thought,

in other words the crankcase wasn't even sealed properly and the preasure

was coming out in so many words.

2~ "Something" from the timing chain had broke off and was laying in the

bottom of the oil pan!

3~ The cam oiler spary bar wasn't even WORKING ! ! ! !

AT ALL ! ! ! ! ! !

4~ Head gasket was a cheap copper type instead of the steal layered kind

which should've been used hence the leak from that.

and 5~ We dont know what caused this but one of the crank bearings was

so pitted Nakatsu said had Ruby been a V8 it would've BLEW.

A testament he said to how well our S30 Z's were built, L24/26/28 and all.

I dont know who originally rebuilt my Ruby girls engine but they did not

do S*#$ right.

I know I know I know I shouldn't cous but this has all the markings of

sabotage or complet incompetiance.

~Z~

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