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I need an answer in the next 40 minutes! HELP

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My mechanic just called and he's just about done fixing the timing and a few other things on my 78, but he says he wants to replace the exhaust manifold gasket at the engine because there's a leak. I've known about this, it's nothing big, but he wants 300 dollars to replace it! Is that a little much? He usually gives me decent prices for his work, but this sounds like he's getting a little greedy. Should I bring her home and do it myself? How much should I pay him to do it? I need to know right now, because I need to call him to cancel the work, otherwise he's going to fix it.

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My mechanic quoted me 3 hours work to do this ... there is a bit to be removed, but it's not as bad as one would think. So based on 3 hours work he is charging you around 100 an hour (if the part is supplied). What's his normal rate on the work then divide by his quoted cost, should give you an idea of his estimated time and what he thinks it will cost.

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If you mean the intake/exhaust gasket between the manifold and the head, there's a lot of labor involved there. If you mean one between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe, I'd do that one myself. Of course, I'd do either of them myself but the first one is much more labor intensive.

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Sound a bit high to me but who knows.

You can do it yourself but if you crack the EGR Tube taking off the manifolds

thats a 75 dollor part and at least a weeks wait getting the part before the

seller can send it to you after that.

It's not so much as the $18 part he wants to replace as it is the

labor doing it.

Plus taking off the EGR Tube I have found to be a pain.

The bolts still want come off so the manilds are going to a machine

shop so they can do it with thier tools.

I tried vice grips, hammers and everything.

If not for the Tube though you could take the Manifolds off then put it

all back together in an hour, but just make sure he orders the right

gasket or you could end up with what I had like this.

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28356&highlight=solid+blocked

~Z~

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So it sounds like I should maybe let him do it? The price for that amount of work is reasonable? And how important is it that I get that fixed?

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I tried vice grips, hammers and everything.

Vice grips, hammers......that was your problem right there. I used patience, a lot of penetrating lube(!) and flare wrenches. One of the benefits of being an AC tech is that I have flare wrenches large enough to use on the EGR nuts. They will come off without breaking as will the manifold bolts if you do it right.

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Vice grips, hammers......that was your problem right there. I used patience, a lot of penetrating lube(!) and flare wrenches. One of the benefits of being an AC tech is that I have flare wrenches large enough to use on the EGR nuts. They will come off without breaking as will the manifold bolts if you do it right.

OUCH ! :surprised :dead:

Should I get one from the Tow Yard or should go with a new one?

I used PB Blaster for 2 days straight befor trying to turn it, does that

count?

All the bolts were turning but seemed to be spinning in place and not

moving either up or down which really confused me :angry:

Couldn't even turn 'em by hand with that much so thats where tapping

(OK More like banging at times) with the hammer came in.

Had I known how frail the tube was I would've Manned UP and used as

much penetrating fluid as possible till I could turn it by hand.

Speaking of which what are Flare Wrenches and where can I find some

cause those Vice Grips put Alligator Teeth Marks on those bolts?

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So it sounds like I should maybe let him do it? The price for that amount of work is reasonable? And how important is it that I get that fixed?

Your gonna wanna fix that STAT buddy :squareeye

Best let your Mech take car of that, you got a lotta better

things to do with your day, like watch football and drink BEER :bandit:

~Z~

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Thanks, sounds good to me. I guess I'll let the man do his thing. You guys rock! Thanks everyone!

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Speaking of which what are Flare Wrenches

You can get them anywhere that sells tools. They wrap farther around the nut which prevents it from rounding off and are designed for lines and fittings which is basically wht the EGR tube is. The larger ones I have came from SnapOn($) but you can get other ones as long a they're good ones. The ones pictured aren't mine, just a generic picture.

post-3797-14150801909644_thumb.jpg

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One other thing on that EGR tube. You have to remove the top nut first. You have to put a wrench on the fitting and another on the nut itself. And the lube should not only go on the threads but also on the tube itself where the nut will spin over it. Rock it back and forth. Not much, just enough to break up the rust between the nut and the tube. After the top one comes off, and it will, work on the bottom one. That way the top of it is disconnected and won't twist against itself when you attempt to remove the bottom nut.

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Thyanx YO ! :)

I jus ordered the EGR Tube from MSA for 72 bucks so

we'll see how it goes.

It'll take 7 days to get to MSA then they'll mail it to me,

so I should get it in about a week and a half.

Any tips for installation BTW?

FYI if you want to order new windshield wiper blades, for a '77 at least,

you'll have to buy the bracket which comes with the blade aswell

at 17 Duckets :rambo:

Not bad but the wiper blades by themselves alone are NLA supossedly.

~Z~

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No tips for EGR tube installation other than putting some anti sieze on the threads and on the tube where the nuts spin. That's what I did although it's probably burned off by the heat the exhaust generates. For the wipers I just slide refills into my stock ones. I even have a backup set of OEM assemblies in case something happens to the ones on the car

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