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Flooding badly


hansen77

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Im having trouble with my stock 77 280z. I tried to start it the other day and it wouldn't fire. After some investigating found that it was flooding, badly. This problem came out of nowhere. I've seen some posts around saying that an ECU or Air flow meter could cause this but I thought i'd see what you guys think the problem is.

Please Help

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I agree with Stephen. Check the items that are made to wear out and be replaced and replace them. Odds are that if they are not the originals, they are old replacements and would be due for a freshening.

Additionally, check all of your connectors, both electrical and fuel related.

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  • 1 month later...

Old thread new problem. Rebuilt bottom end, I'm not sure what is wrong with the car, its either getting flooded with gas or starved. The car will start then after a while it will die. Replaced the temp sender and thermotime switch. Also dropped the gas tank and cleaned it out along with installing a new fuel filter. I have no leaks in the system and when I take the plugs out it doesn't smell like gas as it would if it was flooding. Any other ideas?

The cold start valve doesn't seem to be working either. The only way it seems to get the car started is to bridge the Cold Start Valve to the battery like you would if you were de-pressurizing the system. Could the problem be in the ECU? Help?

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well the pump SHOULD kick in after you crank it for a bit (on my 78 the oil pressure sender kicks it on)

what i did to figure out what was wrong, was i pulled off the tps plug, and the cold start valve. my car's still running really rich, but it runs ok. In my case, it's VERY corroded water temp sensor plugs (the bullets are a bit corroded too)

any corrosion on those will cause the car to run horribly rich. and the tps will cause it to run even more rich, since the tps make it run RICHER (basically) i unplug the cold start valve to make sure it isn't on while i'm checking things.

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Is it a problem that my fuel pump is on when I turn the key into the on possession? I'm not sure but it has done that ever sense I got it. I've replaced the temp sending unit and the thermo-time switch. Is there anything else I can do? How would I get my fuel pump to only come on when I crank then engine?

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if it comes one when you turn it to the on position it means your relay is bypassed. the wires are under the passenger carpet behind the seat, but they may be bypassing it at the other end (don't knwo where it goes)

take a look at a wiring diagram and you'll figure it out ^^ on the 77 i think the afm kicks the pump on. on the 78 the oil pressure sender does.

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Will it hurt anything if I leave it where its at? It just seems that the electrical going to the Cold start valve isn't working or the AFM I'm not sure which. Once I hotwire the Cold start valve it will idle perfectly fine. When I try and rev the engine it chokes and dies.

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it sounds like a lack of fuel to me.

i'm having a problem with flooding though, i THINK the cold start valve is broken and is stuck wide open, because the car won't hold fuel pressure. the fpr is fine, and none of the injectors leak. I freaked out because this started after i had cleaned my water temp sensor plugs with vinigar to get rid of teh corrosion (which did a good job of cleaning them) I tried jumping the cold start valve with a 9v and nothing happend. thought the batt was dead, so i jumped an injector, and it clicked like it should. go back to the cold start, no sound. this thing is running so rich that it won't fire, and when i did get lucky enough to fire it up, i had trouble keeping it at 500rpm with the gas to the floor. it IS getting spark, that was one of the first things i checked to see if it was a fuel delivery problem, or a flooding problem.

would a busted cold start valve cause it to flood this badly?

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My guess would be yes. I wasn't getting fuel so I put fuel into it and jumped the cold start like I had been before and then tried starting it. The car was flooded. I took out the plugs cleaned gas off them and let it evaporate from the engine. Put the plugs back in hooked up the wires and it fired first try. So yeah the CSV could be a huge problem.

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well the cold start valve doesn't leak (took it out and turned on the pump) but it is busted, i can't get it to kick on with my battery. It does hold pressure it seems, (kicked an injector on and could hear the fuel spraying) the plugs are black, and were deffinetly soaked in fuel. i'm wondering if somehow i ****ed up when i cleaned the connections with vinegar, though, that doesn't seem likely.

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the water temp sensor is perfect (checked at ECU)

the injectors are firing, fuel indicates it. I do have spark (checked by setting a plug on the engine to see if it sparked)

if i held it to the floor, it had a very small amount of life, but never enough to fire up. it WON"T start even on starter fluid. after a while of cranking it, etc, it won't even have that little blip of life.

I've got a VERY strong feeling my sparkplugs are totally fuel fouled. (of course, i DID run it over 200 miles running it so rich it smoke screened. after i cleaned the connectors a bit, it still smoked, but not much. I'll bet that it was a coincidence that it crapped out at the same time i cleaned it. who knows though. I'll find out when i get a new set of NKG's (instead of crappy autolites)

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i don't have anything to check it. it's been fine though. the reason why i think it's the plugs is the fact that after purging the fuel lines, disconnecting the lines, and spraying starter fluid into the intake, it STILL won't start up. when normally, it would fire up to about 1500 then die due to lack of fuel.

fuel pressure should be ok. i've put 200 miles on it in the past few days without a single hiccup before this (which is why i think the plugs are shot) if i can find a gauge i'll hook it up just to double check the pressure. but at this point, ti's not firing on even starter fluid, when normally it would.

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so, it's getting awesome spark. i haven't checked my fpr yet (i'm going to buy a gauge tommorow)

I did however, disconnect the afm boot from the throttle body a bit to let more are in, and less flow through the afm. idled great and reved good till it hit 3000 rpm, then it floods, so i lifted the afm more out of the boot while holding it at 3000, and what do ya know, it revved even further.

bad afm a possibility? i know these have an a/f ratio screw, but there's a cap blocking the area that it would normally be. does this cap knock out of place?

(and is it possible for the afm spring to wear out so much that the flap is now too weak?)

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HAHAHAHA I googled my part number on my AFM

it's a mid 80's MR2 AFM! HAHA

no wonder why it ran bad! it's an afm for a 1.6 liter being pulled by a 2.8 liter!

i'm tightening the flap up to basically recalibrate it for the bigger engine.

oh, i didn't hit send. It's running BEAUTIFULLY after adjusting it. basically, it was so loose, that i could suck on it and it would go wide open (wow)

i made it too tight though, so it's running REALLY lean (and overheated a bit)

i'm going to back off the adjustment a bit, that should fix it.

looks like my problem was because of a part for a little itty bitty engine, and not for the bigger 2.8 LOL.

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