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c10/c110 rear coilovers


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okay just wondering if anyone has made rear coilovers for their c10 or c110. im about buy a pair of coilovers sometime this week or next. im going to have to modify the mount a bit and extend but looks like a fairly simple job, i believe i found the right size coilover for my application, now all i need to do is buy the parts so i can get to work...anyway if anyone out there has already done this,.,,,your input would be gladly accepted. thanks


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well shouldnt be to hard, i was looking at some c10 coilover setups and didnt look hard to figure, i measured my cars shock length with full load as it stands, it was about 12.5 inches at rest...and my tires are actually tucked under the flare at this ride height, i found a 13.1 inch coilover shock at rest and has 5 inches of stroke which would work great...i found also a 12 inch coilover shock with 12 way dampening but only had about 3" of shock travel. i feel the 13" shock would work better...im gonna buy the 300lb spring with the setup.

as for mounting, it isnt that bad...i can either change the eye hole style coilover shock to stud type or just run a u bracket and bolt it down on the stock mount and mount the coilover that way....either way should work...only thing to worry about the spring hitting the arm, since the coils are roughly 4" in diameter....i found some mount extenders i might buy to move the shock out more...as soon as i get all the parts ordered ill do a little right up when it gets done.


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  • 3 weeks later...

ok so heres what i got so far, still doing more research and refining....so far im running 10" springs with 300LB rate...with this setup theres barely any room for height adjustability....at highest point the car is about a tight 2 finger gap from top of tire to bottom of flare....i bought some 2" stud extenders to give more adjustability when they arrive hopefully next week i should have a 90% complete coilover system....i will brace the lower shock mount to get more strength. also i bought some top bearing mounts that will hopefully clear the top mounting stud,,,,i had to mock up some washer and such for now to mount the shock for test fitment...so far the axles clear...as soon as everything is done ill post up the finish product....thanks






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well i bought a 2" stud extender to get a little more height we'll see how much more height ill get...right now im about 2 finger gap between tire and flare which is not a bad height...and have about 3.5" of shock travel which is plenty. i also havent adjusted the damper on the shock so its on the lowest setting right now..i have 12 adjustments. if everything goes well...if you run same shock with extender and 10" coils you should be happy with the results....ill let you know when i finish the mock up....

how low are you looking to go?

im sure i can go higher right now if i compress the coilover more...the coils arent even compressed...if i tighten the coils more i can get more height. im pretty happy with the setup so far...once i fine tune it more it should work well...

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Am I right that you are aiming for an effective 300 lb/in at the WHEEL?? That's an EXTREMELY high spring rate and would unload the tires on a 2500 lb car over a matchbox bump!

Once you get your (factory configuration) spring rate and damper rate set up to work well on the surfaces and types of roads / tracks you frequent then you can vary the static ride height easily by adding a nylon spacer ring on top of the spring. You DON'T need to replace the spring.

Unless you are prepared to keep a very accurate and detailed logbook of track / road surface, weather conditions, spring and damper rates used at a minimum then there really isn't much point in spending the cash required for a COMPLETE coil-over setup.

Don't forget that just because the coil-over is easily height adjustable that does NOT mean you can change the spring rate without changing the actual spring, so you still need a spring selection for smooth to washboard roads.

Have a look at any good suspension book or talk to a spring manufactirer and you will find that there are three main factors involved in a spring - the wire thickness, the number of turns and the Young's Modulus of the spring material.

Cut a turn off and you will both stiffen the spring and lower the car.

Reset the lower spring perch further down and you will lower the car, period.

Ask some questions of the circuit racing guys, some will give you a quick look at the type of logbooks they keep to know where they are going with the suspension. Just don't expect to get any sort of detail!!

For Australians, just get to a racetrack when the V8 Supercars are there and ask them how many springs are in the parts drawers.

Also keep in mind that they are now effectively illegal in all Australian States and Territories for public road use unless you can prove that the car either came with that setup from the OEM factory or can not be adjusted to below the 100mm ground clearance requirement. Then you have to get an engineer to sign off on the insurance risk!

On a road car coil-overs are good wow factor but not much else. On a circuit, hillclimb or several other competion cars they are good value (and we run them on my wifes hillclimb special).

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im not gonna do a true 300lb rate...my setup right now to me is good...with the 40-45 degree angle my setup it is equal to 177LB which is a bit soft right now and perfect for daily driving but at the same time the dampning is still set at "0" so i can still play with the shock dampning which i can turn 12 steps. im actually over the recommended rate for the rears....according to the manual a 150LB rate is perfect for weight in the rear....im just going over because of my motor pushing close to 350whp. i wanna make sure it doesnt dip so hard. imma try what i have now and if its still to soft ill up the rate. i dont have much access for springs and shocks here in the US thats why im doing the coilover setup,,,i can get a setup that i like...just tryin to give us U.S. guys an option since its hard for us to get any parts for our cars.

im keeping the 10" spring...i think once i mess with the damper it should be where i like it. thanks for the input.

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i havent had a chance to work on the front coilovers as of yet...ill be getting some 280zx struts and get them done off the car so when thier done i can just pop them in...i have tein camber plates off a 240sx(s13) that fit perfect. as soon as i get the rears all done with all the kinks out i wanna get the car shipped out to get the motor running then bring back for brakes and front suspension.

i got a phone call today and a magazine wants my car to be in their issue upcoming issue....unfortunately my car is not done but they really wanna shoot the car regardless of the project....hopefully we can shoot a before and after....so i have 2 weeks from today to get the car somewhat presentable....gonna be hard since i dont have my headlights and other minor details,,,,,plus the car isnt running.....ill do my best to make the car look presentable and hopefully give the people in the US a second look at the Kenmeri c110.

matt when im all done ill get in touch with you and if your interested ill try to help you on getting the perfect ride height for your car. im planning to get another set of rear coils....around 500# cuz of the angle it will be close to 250# coils.....so my 300# coils are about 177# a bit soft but i havent cranked the shock damper yet,..so maybe you might be interested in these for daily driving.

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If you can get a set of C210 struts they are more suitable than 280ZX.

C210 had 270mm discs vs 280ZX 252mm discs.

The caliper sits further out on the C210 - ie the caliper offset from the bolt holes to the centre of the pad is nearly identical but the mounting point on the strut is further out from the axle centreline.

Then you can go with 504/604 Pug 270mm x 20mm ventilated discs, 5mm thick spacer between the disc and the hub, plus a set of 87/88 Toyota 4WD four piston calipers.

Pretty much a bolt together deal.

Some of the six cylinder models from the same years would be worth investigating as they may also have had the 270mm solid discs.

A set of 260/280Z struts can also be used particularly when going to coilover - just use the C110 upper plate with appropriate spring seat adaptor.

That will also give 270mm discs but you then have to use C110 hubs.

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  • 1 month later...

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