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zwhore

so, i started to roller paint...

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im very interested in the roller paint... can anyone send me some info on it? or a link? my Z is close to painting and i am still in a debate on how to do it. I have all the painting equipment but not the proper place for a sprayer... does roller paint require a less paint adequate place?

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Zman

Heres a link to where I found out about the "$50 paint job" with the most recent discussion.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=38&vc=1

There is over a hundred pages of discussion on roller painting a vehicle. Several people have completed the job with outstanding results. As well as using different types of paint.

My own personal experince is that it can be done with limited experience. Since if you mess something up you just sand it off. It is probably way more labor intensive than a state of the art Base coat/clear coat job. But with that type of paint trying to do it at home there are alot of downsides.

I've done a few test patches on my 240. I first tried rustoleum it it works just like they say. Since I wanted to get a close match with the factory orange 918 I went to Sherwin Williams for a custom match. I got a industrial enamel that is so close to 918. It behaves a little differently from the rustoleum so I have had to experiment alittle. So far the gloss doesn't seem to be as good as what I was getting from the rustoleum.

If I chip,scratch, or ding a roller job I can easily repair in my garage. If I were to have an expensive BC/CC job get scratched, it's ruined. Till I take back to be repaired $$$$$

Remember this type of paint work is not meant to match a BC/CC job. But it will get you a respectable job. That most people won't know from a factory paint job. It's heavily dependant on your effort.

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update,

i finally got time to do a second coat on the underside of the hood.

i used a 40-45% mix of the sherman willams direct to metal paint with mineral spirits.

less bubbles, and it turned out fairly nice.

the first coat would scratch either, very durable.

tony

Hey Tony, Can you describe explicitly the roller you're using? When I read the Mopar thread it seemed a little vague on what kind of roller. Were you able to get this at your Sherwin Williams place?

Thanks,

Steve

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Steve

If you have a Home Depot near you thats where I got mine. The foam rollers are white not yellow. They look like they have a ultrafine texture to them. They come in four- pack or 4 inch wide rollers for about 3 bucks

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with the roller paint jobs, is it conceivable to do a clearcoat to get that shine? i realize that clear would be a lot harder because you can't roll it, but you should be able to at least wet sand and polish it.

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I think you could roll a clear on. So far I haven't found a arcylic enamel oil based clear in a can. There are polyurethane clears in a can. and Lacquer clears in a can. If the paint can be thinned and hardens than it can be sanded. I would stay away from any paint that is waterbased. Clear or not.

I bought a can of spray clear so I could experiment with getting a finish. To see if it's possible to get a decent shine after sanding with 2000 grit and applying a clear. Skipping the polishing stage. Also it's probably going to be harder to make a spot repair once you apply a clear coat.

If after the clear is put on and it developes a orange peel than it should get sanded with the same or higher grit before it was put on and will need to be polished to get the shine back. The paint I'm using is not getting the same gloss the rustoleum was getting so I most likely will add a clear coat at some point. But, I have to try to polish to be sure. Lacquer automotive paint has very little gloss with it's put on and you have to work up thru the grits to get it to shine which it does after a polishing.

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