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Aging Man with an Aging Car -- I need help


wm_e_smith

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Yes, very difficult to find. As I recall, I had the car running and shook each one of the relays. When I shook the bad one, the car sputtered and died. I replaced it and have had no problems since. I had tried many other things before I tried the relays. Of course, like I said, that was on my Z not my 810.

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Well, this is a very good thread. I've been watching it grow from the onset, and only just came to read it through. I'd like to see to it that Bill's car becomes the dependable vehical that we all tout our Datsuns to be.

Let's review - Bill started this thread with what struck me as the classic "rust in the tank" senerio. Having gone through that myself, I can tell you that his symptoms mirror what I experienced to a tee.

My dear friend Stephen gave him proper sugestions to eliminate other possible causes that are less extensive that pulling the tank, and Bill went through them. After sorting a few things that might have arose through the process of the diagnosis, His car now runs as it did, with the same malfunction occuring.

Do I got it right so far?

What I'd like to see is what is coming out of the fuel filter. Before I corrected my problem, I would remove the filter and empty it (via the inlet) onto a white paper towel. I would find much rust dust on the towel upon this. Mind you, the dust was not the source of my woes, only the indication. The reall culprit was large rust flakes inside the tank.

I've no expirence with the later FI cars, but I'm willing to bet they are equiped with a large metal can fuel filter, mounted back by the pump. - True? If so, Bill, are you able to pull this and test as above? I know that "Flat on your back - arms in a tight place" is tough for me at 47 years old (it's the mileage, not the years). But I'd be interested in what comes through this test.

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They do have a large metal can filter but it's mounted on the passenger side fenderwell, towards the front, so it won't be quite as difficult to test as you described. Did we miss the fuel filter earlier in this thread? I guess mileage on the mind is important too!

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The fuel filter was replaced approximately 3 weeks ago. After pouring gas out, it looked clean to me. So I am ruling that out.

Rather than present anything lengthy here, I'll write up the problems, what was done, and how it reacted after those steps were taken. In other words, a summary of probably what has already been said within this thread. Then I'll make it a "clickable" thing so it doesn't eat up this web site's space.

It may seem like I'm slow with this effort but other than my lack of knowledge, money is an issue. A Social Security check doesn't go far, so often I am waiting until I get the money. But I'll eventually get it done. I'm determined. And I thank you all for your suggestions.

Also, picture my limitations -- I live in an apartment building for Senior Citizens where they, as most apartments do, frown on repairing cars. So far, they haven't complained. Of course, I haven't had the engine apart all over the parking lot YET.

It may take me a couple days before I can write up the summary. So, please bear with.

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I thought that I had it fixed except for the cutting out after a few miles but now I'm farther disappointed. The car is consistent with it's quirks - I had to go up to a convenience store a moment ago which is about a half mile away. Weather is cold, in the 30's. It started up immediately, telling me the cold start valve works. It ran great then about 300 yards from home it started running rough. When I went inside the store I left it running. It ran good on the way back but a couple times, in that short distance, it cut out and I had to restart it. I doubt if the water even had a chance to warm up.

Seems as if I or anyone else does ANYTHING to the car it runs super good for one day then -- Kaplooie!

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This presents a quote of a message posted by me back on PAGE 2. Relays entered my mind because of problems years ago. But I am totally ignorant about "relays'.

Another question while gathering information --

About 18 years ago, my 810 would die on the city streets, on the freeways, or on the interstates, not often -- maybe like every 2 or 3 months. It would not start unless I let it sit for about 20 mintutes. Nissan could not figure it out. A service rep even drove it back and forth to work for 2 weeks. Then I was told he couldn't get it to fail so the "computer chip" was replaced. That did no good. Finally it died and was impossiible for me start. I had it towed in and they said it was the relays. The intermittent problem I was having never occurred again. What are the relays, are they a simple part or something complex? Are they easy to obtain and install?

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There is no 'computer chip'. Not in those days. All that tells me is that your Nissan tech didn't have a clue. That's par for the course, however, since many present day Nissan 'techs' were either small chidren or not even born in the era of the EFI L series engine. Relays aren't really complex. They either work or they don't. They can't be repaired. That is unless one posseses 'mad electrical skills'. There are test procedures for them in the FSM. As far as obtaining them, well, the junkyard is the only source I would know of. I doubt that Nissan still has them and I don't know if the ones for a 280Z or 280ZX are the same though they are available through places like MSA or Victoria British. I dread the day that I have to source relays for my 810. I haven't yet had a relay related problem in the 810 so I don't know much about the interchangability of relays from other Nissan models. When I first got the car, I opened up the relay box and ran checks on all of them and cleaned the terminals and plugs just as preventative maintainence. There is a relay box under the hood of the 810 right next to the battery. It houses the Fuel pump control relay, the inhibitor relay (A/T), the bulb check relay, the horn relay , the fusible link, the #2 engine harness, the engine room harness, the headlamp sensor, the wiper amplifier, the lighting relay, the main harness and the fuel pump relay. The ignition relay is above the fuse box on the kick panel on the passenger side.

post-3797-14150796244221_thumb.jpg

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It is easier to pull than an S30/S130 tank since it's in the trunk rather than under the car. I just don't think that the problems your'e having require pulling the tank. My Z had sat for almost 5 years when I purchased it and due to the sediment that built up in the tank the car wouldn't run much past an idle.

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