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Autoloc keyless entry


Ed

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I installed a keyless entry system in my car. Autoloc model KL 550. Does anyone have any experience installing these or a similar system? Everything went really good. Power door locks work great. Parking lights flash when system is activated and deactivated. My question is on the starter/ignition kill. I don't know if I have some wires crossed or backwards or what but, I unlock the doors, get in the car, sit down, then when I turn the key, nothing. Then when I activate the system and lock the doors, turn the key and she fires right up. Is this supposed to work like this? I was hoping it would be the opposite where the system (doors) are unlocked for the engine to turn over. The way it is now the system (doors) are locked for the engine to turn over.

Also the system has a valet switch, how does this work???

Their tech support desk doesn't open until Monday. I hope someone can help me before then.

Thanks

Ed

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I used to install car alarms, and hls30 is right. It sounds like you have the relay hooked up wrong. You have it set to NO (normally open), that means when you disarm the alarm, it opens the relay and make the starter not work. You want to use it as NC (normally closed), this makes the relay close when the alarm is disarmed. It should be in the instructions how to hook the wires up. You should not have to lock the doors to make it work. I did do a kill switch once where we put a momentary button in the lighter (filament removed), so you had to hold the lighter in while turning the key in order for the car to start. The woman had an alcoholic husband who used to steal her car all the time. I guess she thought this would stop him.

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It looks like the relay is set to open if the ignition switch is put in the ON or START position. The grey wire from the brain, is probably a GND. It looks to get the +12V from the yellow wire that is attached to the ignition +12V. Can you move the wire from 87a to 87 and see if it works correctly? Make sure with it like this, that is will not start with the doors locked by the remote. This may take care of the problem. let me know how it turns out.

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Well, I talked to the service tech and we went through a system test and the result was that the module is working correctly. He said it is probably the relay. I tried a different relay (same brand) and it did the same thing. So I took the relay off the car to do some testing. With power to 85 & 86 the relay was closed at both positions 87a, 87 & 30. With no power to 85 & 86 the relay was open at both 87a, 87 and 30. I take it it's not supposed to work like this?? Should the relay alternate, open-closed, 87a-87? And vice versa?

Thanks for the help.

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  • 3 months later...

Well, better late than never but I solved the earlier problem. It was a cheap relay that was not working properly. New relay and she's working fine.

On another note if anyone is doing the power door lock upgrade I've attached a templete of the bracket I made along with a picture. To do the other side you just reverse it. That's why the picture doesn't match the templet. Cut the templete and flip it to do the other side.

I started with some aluminum sheet metal I can't remember the guage but it measures .030. I cut it with tin snips.

After it's bent remove the two screws on the back side of the door that hold the window frame, above the latch. Loosten the other two. And remove the door handle.

The bracket slides behind the window frame. Mark the holes for the two screws and drill with a 1/2 bit.

Hope it helps. If somone has a different set up, share it.

Here is a link to pictures of the actuator installed.

templete.bmp

post-1052-14150796243328_thumb.jpg

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