Step 12. Install the small optical sensor support bracket on the bottom screw hole and attach the ground wire you moved out of the way on step 8.

The first photo does not show the ground wire attached. Do so before you go on to the next step.

Step 13. Install the trigger wheel on the shaft paying close attention to the flat sides on the shaft and the matching flat sides inside the trigger wheel.

Step 14. Install the optical sensor to the support bracket from step 10 and check for proper spacing and no rubbing/interference.

Step 15, Route wires out of notch in distributor housing making sure there is no interference with the moving parts inside the distributor and seal the opening with silicone sealant. Be careful to not get any inside the distributor housing.

Step 16. Install new rotor in same position as the one removed. You will notice in the photo, mine is a little worn. I have a new one in there now. It wasn’t available for the photo. (See step 2. :stupid: )

Step 17. Install distributor cap.

NOTE: If you are replacing spark plug wires put on new set following the proper firing order. (1972 US model is 1-5-3-6-2-4)

Step 18. Find a suitable mounting location for the control box. As you can see in the photo I mounted mine down by the frame rail directly under the coil. You will have to drill into the car to mount it there. If you don’t like to make any more holes then find some that will work for your application.

Step 19. Follow the instructions that came with the product to make the electrical connections. THEY ARE EASY ENOUGH TO UNDERSTAND.

NOTE: To clean up the look of my installation I shortened the red, yellow, and black wires when I installed my new coil.

Step 20. I soldered all my connections and used heat shrink tubing to make sure that they were good. I recommend you do the same if possible. Is seems the crimp on connectors always fail at the worst possible moment (Murphy’s Law) and they are sometimes very difficult to diagnose when there is a problem.

Step 21. Verify that all connections made were in accordance with the instructions and that they are tight and secure.

Step 22. Reconnect the battery and start the car.

Step 23. Bring it up to normal operating temp.

Step 24. Attach a timing light and verify timing and adjust as necessary to get optimum performance.

Step 25. Remove timing light.

Step 26. Take car out for a test drive. If all checks out okay, then enjoy your self installed maintenance free ignition system.

To give a cleaner more professional appearance, wrap the wires in a wire loom after everything is checked out and works.

I hope that this helps those who are looking to install the Crane XR3000 ignition system on their 240 Z. I welcome all feedback since this is my first write-up so any constructive criticism is welcomed. Just PM me and let me know.

Thanks for reading,

David Honeycutt

Hello,

I also installed an xr3000 in my '71 everything works fine except my tach. When I connect it to the negative post of the coil as per the instructions it kills the engine. I can connect it as it was through the resistor and the tach works but the instructions say not to connect that way. I have called Crane support about a dozen times and every tech I have spoken to is clue-less. Any suggestions you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Best,

H Houghton

Hello,

I also installed an xr3000 in my '71 everything works fine except my tach. When I connect it to the negative post of the coil as per the instructions it kills the engine. I can connect it as it was through the resistor and the tach works but the instructions say not to connect that way. I have called Crane support about a dozen times and every tech I have spoken to is clue-less. Any suggestions you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Best,

H Houghton

I used the following diagram to set up mine. You will notice that I erased the tach connection that they had. I left my tach wired as stock. It still works as normal...so far. I hope this helps you out.

David

If you use it on your 71, the tach should be left alone. I had installed it in my 72 and the tach worked for a while, but died. I then swapped out to a 280 tach that connects to the negative coil post. The 240 tach uses a loop for sensing the tach signal. This loop is also part of the ignition circuit. If you swap to a 280 tach, be sure to leave the loop alone. If you cut or remove it, the car won't run. I think the tach pulse the Crane system sends out is too much for the 240 tach system. It may work fine, or it may die. I've heard both. Good luck

Hello again,

I have connected this thing in every possible combination and still nothing. The tach itself seems to be fine because when I connect it as stock without the bypass jumper on the resistor it works fine, but the instructions say that the xr3000 unit demands full power. When connected stock it appears that the tach is receiving both a continuous 12 volt feed from the ignition and an attenuated signal through the resistor and with the new connection it recieves full voltage both ways. Would a dedicated 12 volt connection for the tach alone while leaving the signal side connected to the resistor address the problem? I dont know how clearly Im commincating this. Please give me your thoughts.

Best,

H Houghton