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  2. I'll need to mess around with the spacing a bit, I was too eager to hear it through the freeway tunnels to get it perfectly set. But no, it isn't too low at all.
  3. Today
  4. More tea, Vicar? 🙂 Page 12: "The Z's L24 powerplant was a six-cylinder adaptation of the four-cylinder L16 used in the 510 and would prove to be a bulletproof workhorse." Ah, that old chestnut. No mention of the L20 six, or indeed the L20A six. Of course not! And "bulletproof"? Not in initial form it wasn't. Crankshaft re-design and re-homologation required... Page 12: "While the additional two cylinders required a new, longer block, crank, and overhead camshaft, most of the engine's internal components - pistons, rods, bearings - were the same as within the 510. Displacement grew to 2,393cc and horsepower to 150." The two engines first lined up for use in the 'Maru Z'/'270KK' project (in mid 1967) were the L16 four and the L20 six. Soon after, a High Performance version of the L20 six (with triple carbs and 160hp output) was added to the plan, but this was dropped when the S20 twin cam was green-lighted for inclusion in the project. The L24 six only came into the picture much later, as an Export spec with extra capacity that would help to mitigate the power-sapping anti-emissions measures necessary in some markets. Six cylinder L-gata engines existed before the L24, so painting the L24 as a direct jump step from the L16, and created solely for the Z, is both inaccurate and misinforming. Either he doesn't know about the L20/L20A, or he's ignoring it. The above quotes are taken from a section titled 'Z DNA'. Ironic. It would be fun to give the S30-series Z a DNA test. A few people might be surprised to find out that Daddy isn't who they thought he was...
  5. That is more like a history than a reputation. I am constantly amazed at how well 240zguild guy sells cars. During auctions, he is always dropping comments about some past transaction that implies expertise. If you look at past auctions that aren't even his, he always sells himself and his shop in his comments seemingly just to get his name out there. "When we do our cars...". He is very subtle about it. He blessed this one at the end of the auction to make the buyer feel that he got a good price. Its a pretty good business model if you know how to sell used cars. Give yourself a name that implies expertise and double the price of what you sell.
  6. The spindle is anchored in the center of the strut assembly by the bolt lock and then the arms / bushings, stoppers, washers and nuts stack on the spindle, forward and aft from the center. The "outsides" of the bushings in question that project a little further than the "insides" just accommodate the thickness of the rubber stoppers (55542) before end washers and nuts and assist the bushing in limiting fore and aft movement of arms while allowing everything to float and be dynamic and still stay centered. The smaller gap created by inside of the bushings allows just enough movement for the bushings against strut assembly without metal to metal contact. Maybe the Tech illustrator missed the meeting and assumed the bushings were symmetrical so no instructions were provided when the service manual was written. Or maybe it was like you said. . . "oops".
  7. Hello Mike, I’m aware of some mistakes that needs to be corrected. I sent you an e-mail! Thanks chris
  8. That looks fantastic to me. Are you thinking of offering them for sale? Given the amount of antenna motors I see on eBay missing the antenna itself (broken) I'd say being able to offer a repair option with the cool looking arrow tip (my opinion) could be a winner?
  9. Hello Captain, long time no chat. I followed your 280 throttle body rebuild and you helped me rebuild mine with new bushings to fix the sticky throttle. I will check tomorrow and get back with you.
  10. I wouldn’t be surprised if Larry commissioned the new book, and dictated his and Roberts inclusion to promote their own “expertise” regarding Z Cars to drive up the price of their offerings.
  11. Interesting stuff. I wonder how the OEM's control their IACV's. Here's something from a book. Looks like BCDD action. So, basically, you'll need to find a way to live with the IACV always open to some degree. There are IACV's that just block a passage in a hose. That would put all of the noise back in to the filter box. Looks like fun. Good luck. follower&f=false
  12. Not stupid at all, I've never tried it but I've heard it does improve it somewhat.
  13. Z car depot is correct . So you have the studs and you just need nuts . I like the copper ones ZCD sells . Or some good ole nut and washers
  14. Yesterday
  15. Oops. Hopefully, they don't have porch pirates there.
  16. It is interesting. I was doing research on the under coating. Some got it from the factory like my car did. Mine also was treated after in spots. The undercoating from the factory seems to be done after the underside paint and before the top coat was applied. You see the over spray on top of the coating. While around the spare tire well it is painted under the undercoating
  17. One of my most used tools ever. I swear it seems like I use it everyday. Small with brake off blade that extends out 4" at least. Olfa wallpaper knife I got in 1987 is in my tool bag today. You never lose the good stuff.
  18. Hi Guy, Thank you for pulling for me during the auction. Unfortunately, it was a very competitive auction and I had reached my budget limit. When I was bidding on the car, I thought that if I happened to win the auction that I would go the paintless dent repair route, then drive and enjoy the car for a few years and then maybe, just maybe consider doing a full restoration. However, it's all for naught since I didn't win.
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